damn fellas...

this place is dead. wheres the love and the questions? lol. let me find out i started some $hit up in here and now that i am chewing on this bone of info you all gave me....theres no food for the forum.

come 'ere big guy. i'll give ya a hug.

thank u sir. thats all im sayin man.....wheres the love? wheres the community.....the unity? lol.

I'm still alive. Took my 500R on turnbull today to get rid of some of the small rubber strips found on new tires. Those small tips are 1/2 the length they were before the ride.

I'm slowly working through breakin--only need 400 miles more going at 50 mph.

Breaking in a tire is more or less a myth. Run it through one heat cycle and it's as good as it will ever be.

when u say a heat cycle...what exactly is that? i have a new tire waiting for the ice and snow to melt out here.

A heat cycle is bringing a tire up to it's operating temperature and back down to ambient temperature. The only thing that prevents a new tire from delivering peak performance is a coating applied during the manufacturing process that results in a slick film over the surface. The film is burned off very quickly and the tire enters its window of peak performance delivery. To give you an idea of just how quick that process is, I give a new tire one lap around a racetrack at a moderate pace before bringing it up to 100% pace. On the street, 3-5 miles (depending on conditions) of gradually increasing pace in a curvy environment is sufficient for me to be comfortable pushing as hard as I desire.

thank u, sir. i appreciate the info.

Want some drama? ;)



I am pretty damn sure I am selling my bike. I would much rather have the money than the bike at this point in my life. I have a TON of debt I need to pay off... I was making some progress until I had to drop $1500 on an extended warranty for my car *groan*. So, yeah, I would love to recoup that money by selling the bike.

Oh, did I mention I am "due" for a new helmet, and saving $250 sounds pretty damn good right now?

well...u dont have to spend $250 on a helmet. u can spend half if u do ur homework. what kind of bike and how much?

this link breaks down the truth about snell rated helmets and how a dot approved helmet is safer than a snell rated helmet. a 60 cents sticker raises the cost of a helmet by 150-400 bucks. it even breaks down the facts and proves that a $70 helmet is just as good. i have an amazing rubbertone zox that cost me 100 bucks brand new and happens to be dot and snell rated. after reading the article though,, i wish it wasnt snell rated. looks amazing and i got it on ebay. in fact.. i own 6 helmets... different colors for different gear. dont sell it. we r a month away at worst.

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/gearbox/motorcycle_helmet_review/

i suppose it comes down to what your heads worth.


there's passing and passing. i don't want to stick my head in something that only just passes. i'd rather go something that surpases.

well first read the entire article and results of all the testing and experimentation and then u might come back and retract ur statement. if ur up for debate afterwards..then we can talk facts. the facts show that the dot rated helmet surpassed the snell rated helmets. i can lead the horse to water but i cant make him drink it. i dont feel the need to type all the details when the link is there and can break it down much more in detail. ( i suppose it comes down to what your heads worth.) is a psychological sales slogan used by these companies and cycle shops that have u thinking because it costs more it must be better. remember that they r in the business of making money off of u. i know its alot to read but if ur head is worth anything at all....use the brain that u are trying to protect in your head to absorb the info b4, godforbid it has to absorb an unecessarilly harder impact than it needs to because of an over rated helmet. i care for my fellow man. as long as that article is... i know that at this time...1:30 am that no one has read it in its entirety so as to be able to comment on the subject matter. if u skim u may miss some very important key factors. let go to class people. lol.

we've all seen these threads before. and i've got that article saved in my favorites

i know what my head fits in, is comfortable in and what weight feels good. there's more to a good helmet than DOT, Snell or other tests. they only state that they have passed the test but not how well.
would you rather go to a neurosurgeon who just passed or got high distinctions at uni. both got the degree but one is obviously better.

I use Shoei. its light, aerodynamic and fits me properly. all qualities that make it easier for me to ride comfortably rather than be trying to hold my head up and get fatigue in the neck muscles.
i can tell the difference between my old X-9 and my newer XR-1000

i was actually disappointed because i didn't fit into an Arai. (Doohans stack hat of choice)

i've also seen two friends go down in less quality gear and the damage sustained. i'll stick to my brands and hope never to use them



oh and its 6pm here and we have our own standards system. Australian Standards AS 1698

My last reply didn't go through... oh well.

What I had said was that I've done tons of research on helmets. I know what helmet I want. I know the price of the helmet I want. Yes, I'm vain, I like stickers... that, and stickers let the helmet match more than one bike. (If you don't know already, I'm AR to the max).

As for the link... those goofy looking beanie helmets are DOT approved, but I wouldn't be caught in one of them for a heartbeat. Ask Ben Roethlisberger if he thinks a "mere DOT" helmet would have saved his jaw from shattering. ;) I'll take my SNELL and DOT approvals. :)

As for the bike, it retails over $8k, so I don't stand a chance of affording it any time soon. :(

once again...if u read the article in its entirety....the helmets not only passed but surpassed with high honors and exelled passed the snell rated helmets. the final option comes down to how much u want to spend and how hard u want ur head to hit the inside of the helmet that suppossed to protect ur head from the impact to begin with. then there is looks and weight. i can tell by the replies that no one is reading the article all the way through. but hey, thank u for the mental stimulation...i appreciate a good convo and debate. and as for this comment- those goofy looking beanie helmets are DOT approved, but I wouldn't be caught in one of them for a heartbeat.- i never said that anyone should get those types. wrong helmet for sportsbikes. ur face, jaw and chin mandate protection as well. hey.. i was just trying to offer a solution.

i have the matte black (bottom right)...small nice and i paid only $100. i am a hustler and business man...not a consumer. i believe in self education and accept the facts humbley.

http://www.zoxhelmets.com/zoxhelmets/spectrar_en.asp

a lighter helmet is better if u plan on riding slow. i can tell by the replies that no one is reading the article all the way through.


try a heavier helmet at 265k's an hour on a track day and look over your shoulder for the first turn and try to tell me its better. :screwy:
why have a heavier helmet when we are forever trying to reduce weight?
i don't like working my neck muscles if i don't have to. (perving is an acceptable form of exercise)

and we have read the article through, its the same as anything you read. its the writers opinion. 83% of people believe 95% of the statistics put infront of them if its written down.


you guys have so many more helmets available to you than we do down here. our standards don't pass just any old helmet. whether the helmets manufacturers have tried and failed our tests, i don't know. our range is limited to under ten manufacturers. shoei, arai, hjc, laser, shark, agv, dainese are the only ones my store sells. i haven't included the "harley" style helmets coz i don't know any.



ps. if for a second you believed the statistics quote then i've proved a point. someone would have. come on be honest.

There 3 kinds of lies. Lies, damned lies and statistics. ;)

I am a mathematician by trade, and I can read the numbers all day long, but when it comes down to it, I make my own decision. I know what fits my head... it's a bitch finding helmets that fit a female well. ;)

A heat cycle is bringing a tire up to it's operating temperature and back down to ambient temperature. The only thing that prevents a new tire from delivering peak performance is a coating applied during the manufacturing process that results in a slick film over the surface. The film is burned off very quickly and the tire enters its window of peak performance delivery. To give you an idea of just how quick that process is, I give a new tire one lap around a racetrack at a moderate pace before bringing it up to 100% pace. On the street, 3-5 miles (depending on conditions) of gradually increasing pace in a curvy environment is sufficient for me to be comfortable pushing as hard as I desire.

Or you can skip all that and just wash the new tire with a warm water and light detergent bath, which will remove all the mold release compound on it...

Now the bead lubricant (if used) is another story. Ever grab a buttload of brakes on fresh tires, only to have the tires stick to the ground better than to the rim, and reclock them while you aren't stopping? :eek: ...I haven't had it happen with a bike, but I have done it with cars...that scares me more than mold-release traction problems...

I guess if I didn't wash it off, the tire couldn't grab well enough to spin the tire on the rim....:cwm27: