restoration

I am looking to start a resoration project on my 72 c-10 swb. has any one done this and if yes is it comparable to let someone do it for you or to just do it yourself?

I have yet to get my hands on one of those trucks. Very nice find btw. I would think that it would be much cheaper to go at that myself. There will be some things obviously that would have to be sourced out, unless you have knowledge and access. Please post many pics as you begin this process, and pics of the end result would be greatly appreciated.

okay breaking into the Truck this weekend, I will be ordering a new engine for it. Does anyone know what horsepower the 72 chevy came with, will 290 cover it?

290 should push that truck OK, I went with 350 hp in my 74. I wanted a little more go for the show. I'm performing ALL aspects of the body-off restoration on my 74, But I'm a auto service tech. which helps.

There are many forums on the net with experienced people willing to answer any questions or problems you may have tackling a job of this magnitude.

Good Luck with the restore and keep us posted of the outcome.

Superman,

Good choice in trucks, I've always wanted a 67-72 C10 but they are getting to be pretty expensive.

There are many guidebooks available for these trucks, try Amazon.com for starters. You might also try this forum that I found on these trucks:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/

To answer your horsepower question, I have a guidebook that gives the following for 1972 models:

250 cid 6-cyl (presume this was an inline 6) 110 net hp
292 cid 6-cyl: 125 net hp
307 V8: 135 net
350 V8: 170 net
400 V8: 240 net

Before 1972, horsepower ratings were given as gross figures. 1970-1971 was the start of government regulations in smog controls, so compression ratios and horsepower ratings took a dive until the late 1980s.

Hope this helps, good luck with your project.

Have a look at the GM crate motors. The prices look pretty good and the warranty is good too. My brother put I think what was around a 330hp 350 in his T@#%&a truck and is very pleased.

572 big block go for the copperhead build
http://staceydavid.com/index.php?em2048=96289_-1__0_~0_-1_3_2007_0_0&content=projects&ek=96289

and im kidding building anything that extreme costs more money then i will see in many many many many years but that is the greatest (street) truck i have ever seen

Superman,

To answer your horsepower question, I have a guidebook that gives the following for 1972 models:

250 cid 6-cyl (presume this was an inline 6) 110 net hp
292 cid 6-cyl: 125 net hp
307 V8: 135 net
350 V8: 170 net
400 V8: 240 net


I think that 400 V8 is actually a 402 BBC. I had a 400 SBC in a 73 Caprice and believe me, it had nowhere near that kind of power.

The 402 being called a 400 sounds familiar...I remember seeing one of these old trucks with the 400 badge on the fender but the owner said it was actually 402. It was some GM marketing thing or something.

I have got the old engine ready to pull out next weekend, I opted for a 350/350 hp for the truck so it should have plenty of speed. I my question, I have never diconnected an engine from the transmission, are there any tricks to this or special seals that go between the engine to the trans??

I found it's easiest to pull both together, then disassemble and switch outside the vehicle. I have a plate that bolts to the carb opening on the intake. With the tranny attached, the assembly is balanced nicely, tilting down slightly at the back for easy removal. If you have a spare yoke put it in the back of the tranny so you don't dump the tranny fluid out the tail shaft.

If you removed the engine/tranny as an assembly, before you put the assembly down to the ground, remove the inspection cover from the bottom and remove the three bolts which fasten the torque convertor to the ring gear. At this point I drop the assembly down, leaving the engine dangling and supporting the tranny with some wood blocks under the pan. Then, undo the six bolts which hold tranny and engine together. The tranny dip stick tube should be fastened with one of these bolts. Once it's fee, pull the tube out of the casting and stuff the hole with a rag. There are also two dowels aligning the engine and tranny which are sometimes difficult to separate. Once you start to get the assembly to separate, make sure the torque converter stays on the tranny shaft, 'cause if it falls off you'll have tranny fluid all over the place and risk contaminating the fluid in the torque convertor.