motor? b18ls?
Cfmotorsports
10-02-2002, 10:06 PM
calling around shops today and found, a couple of motors i found a d16y i think single over head v-tech for 500, and i found a b18ls what is the ls stand for, will this motor work in my car? he said it was out of 91 integra what computer would it need he wants 1000 for motor and cable trans is this a good pirce and how does this motor compare to the b16 and other motors that will fit the civic
slammed89civic
10-02-2002, 11:38 PM
b18 is a good motor, i believe it is non vtec unless it is from an integra gsr, but if its out of an ls it is just dohc, but given a b16 head i believe it is actually a better motor than the whole b16 itself...not really sure though...but anyway, it will fir but it needs everything that a b16 does, i would actually go with the d16y8 that is a GREAT engine, i have the d16z6 which is basically a first gen d16y8 i LOVE my z6, plus with it bein a d series engine you dont have to buy motor mounts, axles, shift linkage, and other B-series shit, it will BOLT right in, you just have to get a wiring harness or just get a wiring diagram and resolder the 50 (or so) wires yourself
91civicDXdude
10-03-2002, 01:35 AM
i found a d16y i think single over head v-tech for 500
all motors are single over head. i think you are meaning single over head CAM VTEC, unless you are talking about a single over head cordless phone
I laughed the other day when i was flipping through the classifieds of my local paper and see this:
2000 Civic Si. v-tech motor. runs good. call for details
all motors are single over head. i think you are meaning single over head CAM VTEC, unless you are talking about a single over head cordless phone
I laughed the other day when i was flipping through the classifieds of my local paper and see this:
2000 Civic Si. v-tech motor. runs good. call for details
Cfmotorsports
10-03-2002, 06:30 AM
does sombody have the specs these motors and what would it take to make the b18 a vtech?
Originally posted by slammed89civic
b18 is a good motor, i believe it is non vtec unless it is from an integra gsr, but if its out of an ls it is just dohc, but given a b16 head i believe it is actually a better motor than the whole b16 itself...not really sure though...but anyway, it will fir but it needs everything that a b16 does, i would actually go with the d16y8 that is a GREAT engine, i have the d16z6 which is basically a first gen d16y8 i LOVE my z6, plus with it bein a d series engine you dont have to buy motor mounts, axles, shift linkage, and other B-series shit, it will BOLT right in, you just have to get a wiring harness or just get a wiring diagram and resolder the 50 (or so) wires yourself
Originally posted by slammed89civic
b18 is a good motor, i believe it is non vtec unless it is from an integra gsr, but if its out of an ls it is just dohc, but given a b16 head i believe it is actually a better motor than the whole b16 itself...not really sure though...but anyway, it will fir but it needs everything that a b16 does, i would actually go with the d16y8 that is a GREAT engine, i have the d16z6 which is basically a first gen d16y8 i LOVE my z6, plus with it bein a d series engine you dont have to buy motor mounts, axles, shift linkage, and other B-series shit, it will BOLT right in, you just have to get a wiring harness or just get a wiring diagram and resolder the 50 (or so) wires yourself
91zc
10-03-2002, 08:13 AM
LS/VTEC Information
Ls/vtec is the mating of the B18A/B to a B-series Vtec head like the B18C1, B18C5, B17A or B16A head. The amazing part about this swap is that the Ls blocks did not come with Vtec so there are a few mods you need to know to do the swap right.
A. GENERAL INFORMATION
1. The Down Side. The B18a/b has a low r/s ratio 1.53 which is kind of bad compared to the 1.58 of a gsr. The b18a/b was not made to rev over 7000 r.p.m's so it has poor lubrication, bad rod bolts, rods, oil and water pumps, and piston valve relief’s. You can fix all these problems, as you can install vtec block oil squirters for lubricating the rods and piston. This helps to save the pistons, rods and bearings at high rpm's. You can install ARP rod bolts. And get upgraded rods or shot-peined. Also some vtec pistons are recommended. Basically to build it right you need to rebuild the entire block.
2. Oil lines. The Ls block does not have a Vtec oil passage (you need this hole to produce the oil pressure to lock the vtec lobes rocker arm) so you will need to tap a hole on the head. Next you have to make an external line from the oil pressure sender to the head. Use a 4an to 3/8th ntp plug on the head to a steal braided line to tee'd of to the oil pressure sender hole. You will need a 1/8th tee fitting, a 1/8th to 3/4th's fitting for the line to the tee, a 1/8th to 1/8th adapter to plug the block, and plug the oil pressure sender in the back of the tee. So it will look like this (the T will be used as the tee fitting) 18th to 1/8th adapter T oil pressure sender sensor oil line to head. A suggestion is to have the tee fitting so it is not directly on the block (especially if you are installing an oil pressure gauge) as it can literally crack the threads and you will shoot oil everywhere. So try to run ss lines to someplace that can support the weight.
3. You will use the Ls head gasket.
4. Dowel pins: The head needs to be modified for the dowel pins to fit. You have to move and re-drill the dowel pins to be able to fit the head. On the intake side right below where you put the 1/8pipe fitting that plugs the vtec oil passage, you will drill and install one of the dowel pins and do the same on the other side at the exact same point.
5. Timing belt. You will use the Ls timing belt if you use the Ls water pump and the gsr if you use a vtec B17/16 or B18c1/5.
6. Head studs. You will use the vtec head studs for the ls/vtec set-up. I suggest ARP if you want to spend the money.
7. Oil Pump. The oil pumps on the ls's suck so you might want to upgrade to a vtec one or a b20 as they are same part number as the gsr.
8. Heads. There are many heads you can use and there are little differences between them.
First off there is the GSR head which give you a higher compression than the other b-series heads because of its 41.6cc combustion chamber. The smaller combustion chamber makes .2 more compression. Then there is the b16/17a head which are the same the only difference is that the b17a has a p61 stamped on the back of the intake manifold the b16/17a head is a better flowing head 5.25% in fact and a larger combustion chamber 42.7cc's. Then there is the type r which flows even better than the b16a head and has the same combustion chamber. To put this in perspective the b18a/b has a 45cc combustion chamber.
9. GSR Block Girdle. You can use the GSR block girdle on the ls. This will reinforce the bottom end and keep the moving parts in its place. All you need to get is the 3 main caps in the middle, bolts, windage, oil pan and oil pick up.
10. Pistons. You can use any b-series vtec piston in your ls block. Any 1.6 b-series piston will be raised by about one full point in the ls block like the b16a(pr3 pistons will raise it from the stock 10.2 comp in the b16a to 11.2ish in the ls block so keep this in mind when building the ls block. Also keep in mind about the combustion chamber size (See heads) when building the motor. . With a GSR, add .2 comp to the stock ratio. (Warning: these are all estimates: they could be off a little).
B16a head and pr3 pistons 11.2
B16a head and p30 pistons 11.4
B16a head and p72 (ao) pistons 9.9
B16a head and p72 (00) pistons 10.5
B16a head and p73 (ao) pistons 10.7
B16a head and p73 (00) pistons 11.2
B16a head and p61 pistons 10.4
B16a head and pct (CTR) pistons 12.2-3ish
B16a head and pr4 pistons 9.5
Add .2 to all to calculate the GSR head with all of these.
Type r and b17a heads have the same combustion chamber so calculates the same.
11. Conclusion. This information should help you get an idea of what it takes to build an LS/VTEC motor. As always, please, if you don’t know what you are doing, call a mechanic who can help you with anything. Team P Imports and the author of this article are not responsible for any damage you do to your car by reading this article.
Also try http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/b20vtec/b20vtec.html Gives an idea of building the b20 vtec motor.
Ls/vtec is the mating of the B18A/B to a B-series Vtec head like the B18C1, B18C5, B17A or B16A head. The amazing part about this swap is that the Ls blocks did not come with Vtec so there are a few mods you need to know to do the swap right.
A. GENERAL INFORMATION
1. The Down Side. The B18a/b has a low r/s ratio 1.53 which is kind of bad compared to the 1.58 of a gsr. The b18a/b was not made to rev over 7000 r.p.m's so it has poor lubrication, bad rod bolts, rods, oil and water pumps, and piston valve relief’s. You can fix all these problems, as you can install vtec block oil squirters for lubricating the rods and piston. This helps to save the pistons, rods and bearings at high rpm's. You can install ARP rod bolts. And get upgraded rods or shot-peined. Also some vtec pistons are recommended. Basically to build it right you need to rebuild the entire block.
2. Oil lines. The Ls block does not have a Vtec oil passage (you need this hole to produce the oil pressure to lock the vtec lobes rocker arm) so you will need to tap a hole on the head. Next you have to make an external line from the oil pressure sender to the head. Use a 4an to 3/8th ntp plug on the head to a steal braided line to tee'd of to the oil pressure sender hole. You will need a 1/8th tee fitting, a 1/8th to 3/4th's fitting for the line to the tee, a 1/8th to 1/8th adapter to plug the block, and plug the oil pressure sender in the back of the tee. So it will look like this (the T will be used as the tee fitting) 18th to 1/8th adapter T oil pressure sender sensor oil line to head. A suggestion is to have the tee fitting so it is not directly on the block (especially if you are installing an oil pressure gauge) as it can literally crack the threads and you will shoot oil everywhere. So try to run ss lines to someplace that can support the weight.
3. You will use the Ls head gasket.
4. Dowel pins: The head needs to be modified for the dowel pins to fit. You have to move and re-drill the dowel pins to be able to fit the head. On the intake side right below where you put the 1/8pipe fitting that plugs the vtec oil passage, you will drill and install one of the dowel pins and do the same on the other side at the exact same point.
5. Timing belt. You will use the Ls timing belt if you use the Ls water pump and the gsr if you use a vtec B17/16 or B18c1/5.
6. Head studs. You will use the vtec head studs for the ls/vtec set-up. I suggest ARP if you want to spend the money.
7. Oil Pump. The oil pumps on the ls's suck so you might want to upgrade to a vtec one or a b20 as they are same part number as the gsr.
8. Heads. There are many heads you can use and there are little differences between them.
First off there is the GSR head which give you a higher compression than the other b-series heads because of its 41.6cc combustion chamber. The smaller combustion chamber makes .2 more compression. Then there is the b16/17a head which are the same the only difference is that the b17a has a p61 stamped on the back of the intake manifold the b16/17a head is a better flowing head 5.25% in fact and a larger combustion chamber 42.7cc's. Then there is the type r which flows even better than the b16a head and has the same combustion chamber. To put this in perspective the b18a/b has a 45cc combustion chamber.
9. GSR Block Girdle. You can use the GSR block girdle on the ls. This will reinforce the bottom end and keep the moving parts in its place. All you need to get is the 3 main caps in the middle, bolts, windage, oil pan and oil pick up.
10. Pistons. You can use any b-series vtec piston in your ls block. Any 1.6 b-series piston will be raised by about one full point in the ls block like the b16a(pr3 pistons will raise it from the stock 10.2 comp in the b16a to 11.2ish in the ls block so keep this in mind when building the ls block. Also keep in mind about the combustion chamber size (See heads) when building the motor. . With a GSR, add .2 comp to the stock ratio. (Warning: these are all estimates: they could be off a little).
B16a head and pr3 pistons 11.2
B16a head and p30 pistons 11.4
B16a head and p72 (ao) pistons 9.9
B16a head and p72 (00) pistons 10.5
B16a head and p73 (ao) pistons 10.7
B16a head and p73 (00) pistons 11.2
B16a head and p61 pistons 10.4
B16a head and pct (CTR) pistons 12.2-3ish
B16a head and pr4 pistons 9.5
Add .2 to all to calculate the GSR head with all of these.
Type r and b17a heads have the same combustion chamber so calculates the same.
11. Conclusion. This information should help you get an idea of what it takes to build an LS/VTEC motor. As always, please, if you don’t know what you are doing, call a mechanic who can help you with anything. Team P Imports and the author of this article are not responsible for any damage you do to your car by reading this article.
Also try http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/b20vtec/b20vtec.html Gives an idea of building the b20 vtec motor.
civickiller
10-03-2002, 09:44 AM
they want $1000 for a b18a and tranny. shit you could get a b16a engine, tranny, ecu for like $1100. but the ecu for a b18a is the pr4, but you gotta watch out cause the 90-91 b18a's are obd0 so you gotta get a obd0 computer. the 92-93's are obd1 so you gotta get a obd1 ecu. the shitty thing about it is that both ecus are pr4 so its hard for some people to tell which one is which. youll need mounts, axles, shift linkage, wiring harness depending on you.
with the b18a you get 130hp but wiht the b16a you get 160hp. $1000 for b18a and $1200 for b16a. idk only $200 more dollars for 30 hp, i think the b16 is worth it
with the b18a you get 130hp but wiht the b16a you get 160hp. $1000 for b18a and $1200 for b16a. idk only $200 more dollars for 30 hp, i think the b16 is worth it
FourthGenHatch
10-03-2002, 09:49 AM
Yes it has more HP but less Torque, and Torque is what you need.
mellowboy
10-03-2002, 09:56 AM
Isn't the d16y7 a dx motor?:p
civickiller
10-03-2002, 03:53 PM
the b18a only has 121 torque, and the b16a has 111 torque. thats not that much of a difference. idk i would want 30 hp over 10 torque
Cfmotorsports
10-03-2002, 07:17 PM
i think you would get more out of 10 of torque than you would get from 30 hp more torque is what gets you out of the hole with out reving the engine to red line.
thanks for the info on the Ls/Vetch if i just wanted to put the motor in there without doing all of the mods not making it a vtech would it still be a good choice.
i wish i could just find a good deal on dohc zc that what i really want it just drops in. but it looks like that i going to have to go all out with nobody in my area has motors so if you find one you really have to jump on it. the motors i found online are priced fair but the shipping eats ya up.
thanks chris
thanks for the info on the Ls/Vetch if i just wanted to put the motor in there without doing all of the mods not making it a vtech would it still be a good choice.
i wish i could just find a good deal on dohc zc that what i really want it just drops in. but it looks like that i going to have to go all out with nobody in my area has motors so if you find one you really have to jump on it. the motors i found online are priced fair but the shipping eats ya up.
thanks chris
civickiller
10-03-2002, 11:56 PM
i am a drag racer. i know torque gets you off the line faster. i launch at rev limiter anyways. the more torque you have the lower rpm you gotta launch at because youll spin tire, unless your runnin slicks.
say you launch at 3 grand, then once your tires grip, then the b18a will only be at like 100hp while the b16 will be at like 130hp. once your on your way its all hp. with the b18a youll need to launch lower because with more torque its easy to spin tire.
b18a civics get spanked by b16a civics.
but i mean you dont have to take my word for it, i am only a drag racer
say you launch at 3 grand, then once your tires grip, then the b18a will only be at like 100hp while the b16 will be at like 130hp. once your on your way its all hp. with the b18a youll need to launch lower because with more torque its easy to spin tire.
b18a civics get spanked by b16a civics.
but i mean you dont have to take my word for it, i am only a drag racer
redmanjd
10-08-2002, 12:59 PM
b18a is cheaper because you dont have to pay shipping. You want more torque if it is a daily driver. So you dont have to wind your motor out everytime you want to get up to speed. I Have a b18b myself
sastanley
10-08-2002, 01:46 PM
Dude....keep thinking ZC....That LS/VTEC is a pain in the ass if you ask me. - You "could" do that as cheap as $600+/- parts like a water pump, & belts, etc.. which you should replace on ANY of these motor options.
I dunno but I still say zc zc zc ;) - there is a reason the b18a DIDN'T come with a VTEC head :bloated:
I dunno but I still say zc zc zc ;) - there is a reason the b18a DIDN'T come with a VTEC head :bloated:
Cfmotorsports
10-08-2002, 05:44 PM
well i just pruchased a zc and tranny last night so it is lookinglike ZC it will be i think i am going to trubo it a t a later date.
MyFirst4G
10-08-2002, 09:03 PM
Originally posted by Cfmotorsports
well i just pruchased a zc and tranny last night so it is lookinglike ZC it will be i think i am going to trubo it a t a later date.
congrats on the engine!!! post pics of the install swap, and besure to rebuild ur engine because not all ZC's are the greatest engines.... not everyone can have a good ZC like Eric.... You might wanna rebuild and put low comp pistons and so on if you turbo it, and it will be cheaper in the long run if you do it Travis style.... NOW! :)
well i just pruchased a zc and tranny last night so it is lookinglike ZC it will be i think i am going to trubo it a t a later date.
congrats on the engine!!! post pics of the install swap, and besure to rebuild ur engine because not all ZC's are the greatest engines.... not everyone can have a good ZC like Eric.... You might wanna rebuild and put low comp pistons and so on if you turbo it, and it will be cheaper in the long run if you do it Travis style.... NOW! :)
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