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Brake light


chevcamaro_86
02-13-2007, 08:32 PM
i believe there is something wrong with my brake system because my light never turns off and my brake pedal feels unlike any other car ive driven and hard to stop has anyone one else experienced this and what was wrong if you figured it out. oh and by the way it is a 95 gt any help appreciated.:banghead:

xeroinfinity
02-13-2007, 09:29 PM
So the pedal is hard to push?
And when you do it doesnt want to stop ?

I would say you either have a stuck piston in the calipers or your brake booster is shot.

chevcamaro_86
02-13-2007, 09:54 PM
i read something about that brake booster could i find a desent one at the junk yard or are they resonably priced and how hard would it be for me to install one.

chevcamaro_86
02-13-2007, 09:58 PM
i dont know about the pistons sticking because that would just cause the pads to ride the brakes not keeping me from stopping but making pad life suck and my rotors are warped i know that. i also read that it could be that there is a leak in the system and i was also told it could be air in the lines. i havent tried to bleed them but i think im going to wait till it gets warm

xeroinfinity
02-14-2007, 11:07 AM
No I would not sugest buying a used power brake booster(PBB).
To many problems with one of those.

They can be pricy, probly around $100 or more for your 95'.
Not to hard to install, 4 bolts hold master cylinder to the PBB, and 4 bolts holding the PBB to the firewall.
Most come with directions on how to hook it all up and bleeding the master cyl if needed.

First though I would try bleeding them realy good before you jump on the PBB. And A piston in the caliper can be stuck , but not drag the brakes. Just depends on what position its stuck.

If you have a leak in your brake system you would see brake fluid where the leak is, because brake fluid does not evaporate very well.

crazy Jim
02-14-2007, 03:06 PM
In my experience power brake boosters rarely go bad, but, sometimes they do. First check for vacuume leaks in the line to the booster or at the valve in the vacuume line to the booster(I had one crack open before). Back in '82 I purchased an '81 Olds with 25K miles on it. Within a week the brake pedal got very stiff like you have described. I tracked it down to a bad booster so I called the dealer and they wanted 200$ for one. I said no thanks and went to the wrecking yard and as luck would have it I found one pretty quick even though that model car was only 4 years old. Paid ten bucks for it took it home and installed it and never had a nother issue with the brakes.

chevcamaro_86
02-14-2007, 03:23 PM
its hard to tell if something is leaking because my high pressure hose for my power steering broke and was squrting all over the back of the engine compartmentso how could i check the any of the lines for leaks.

crazy Jim
02-14-2007, 04:57 PM
Buy a can of starting fluid and spray around the hoses/fittings while the engine is idling. If there is a leak the engine idle speed will increase. I found a cracked throttle body gasket on my dads chevy pickup years ago using this method after he said he couldnt figure out why the engine would'nt idle quite right.

chevcamaro_86
02-14-2007, 07:33 PM
will try thanks for the suggestions everyone.

xeroinfinity
02-14-2007, 08:11 PM
Often the MS leaks inside causing the pedal to be realy hard to push.
Once in a while they'll leak out side onto the firewall or drip from the MS area. It would be wet looking from fluid loss.

Let me ask you this, if you hold the brake pedal down,
does it eventually drop to the floor?
If it doesnt then you probly dont have a leaking brake line.

That was the leak you were talking about ?

skibum1111
02-15-2007, 07:10 PM
Another thing to consider is the routing of the vacuum line from the intake to the booster. On the quad cars its probably the worst design I've ever seen as the line comes out of the intake, goes forward at a sharp angle around the air intake tubing then back to the booster. I changed mine with some parts from home depot and made it work easier.

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