ls electrical problems

Hello everyone, i hope someone can help me out some. I have the 2000 lincoln ls V8, all the windows and moonroof,power mirrors,seat settings,security system,remote control have all stopped working,all at once at the same time and the power door locks work on the front passenger door unlocking its self and the rear doors but not the drivers. so far i have pulled every fuse in all 3 boxes and they were good,i pulled the master control switch panel from the drivers door and the only power to it is the illumination lights. any suggestions or does anyone have wiring diagrams?

Looking over the diagrams for the 2002 model year, I don't see any smoking gun that would tie all those systems together, other than the battery.

Weak batteries have been known to cause some interesting problems on the LS, make sure your battery is good, cables are clean and tight, and charging system is working.

There are two modules that are pretty common to all but the power moonroof. The Driver's Door Module gets its power from a few places. Also, the Front Electronics Module (FEM) is tied into most of these systems.

For the Driver's Door Module, be sure that fuse F4.20 (20A, hot at all times) in the Battery Junction Box is good and has power to both sides. Assuming power there is good, check fuse F4.20 (20A, hot in run) in the Auxilliary Junction Box is good and has power to both sides with the key in the run position. Also, make sure you have power to both sides of fuses F2.07 (5A, hot at all times) and F2.22 (10A, hot at all times) in the Central Junction Box are good and have power to both sides at all times.


For the FEM, fuse F2.29 (5A, hot at all times) in the Central Junction Box should be checked, as should fuse F4.26 (20A, hot at all times) in the Auxilliary Junction Box.

-Rod

Thank you Rod for your help, I do have a couple of questions, first for example when you say fuse f4.20, is this simply fuse 4 in the corresponding fuse box? also when you refer to the auxilliary box is this the box in the engine compartment and the central junction box being the one behind the kick panel inside the cabin? I have looked at the battery and the eye is kind of orange,it is a motorcraft battery, it should be green? it has never had a problem starting even after sitting a few days and it is cold here in minnesota, the message center says the charging system is ok. A new battery should read 12.6 volts? what would be considered weak?
thanks again, Steve Looking over the diagrams for the 2002 model year, I don't see any smoking gun that would tie all those systems together, other than the battery.

Weak batteries have been known to cause some interesting problems on the LS, make sure your battery is good, cables are clean and tight, and charging system is working.

There are two modules that are pretty common to all but the power moonroof. The Driver's Door Module gets its power from a few places. Also, the Front Electronics Module (FEM) is tied into most of these systems.

For the Driver's Door Module, be sure that fuse F4.20 (20A, hot at all times) in the Battery Junction Box is good and has power to both sides. Assuming power there is good, check fuse F4.20 (20A, hot in run) in the Auxilliary Junction Box is good and has power to both sides with the key in the run position. Also, make sure you have power to both sides of fuses F2.07 (5A, hot at all times) and F2.22 (10A, hot at all times) in the Central Junction Box are good and have power to both sides at all times.


For the FEM, fuse F2.29 (5A, hot at all times) in the Central Junction Box should be checked, as should fuse F4.26 (20A, hot at all times) in the Auxilliary Junction Box.

-Rod

a quick update, had battery checked,said good but low charge. tried hooking a charger to it and putting it on boost to see if the extra juice would operate the windows but this did not work. i need to get the charging system checked next even though the message center says its ok. The alternator tester thats on my charger shows just below the green in the yellow but i dont put much faith in that tester alone.

Well, chances are pretty good if the battery is original, your charging system is probably okay but the battery is on borrowed time.

I agree that the battery is probably not the problem in your situation, but is usually a good place to start.

As for the fuse numbering, I'm not sure what the designations mean, but I would expect that fuse 4.20 is fuse 20 rather than fuse 4. It appears that all fuses in that box are 4.xy.

The Auxilliary Junction Box is the one under the hood, and the Central Junction Box is the one in the interior compartment. I'm stating that off of memory, I should probably check the service manual this evening to verify that.

As for what constitutes a weak battery, I'd suggest monitoring the battery voltage during a start attempt while the starter is cranking. If you have a "min" setting on your meter, enable that and try to start the engine. If the battery voltage is dropping below 9.5 Volts, I'd strongly consider replacing it, especially since you live in MN.

-Rod

Hello again Rod, sorry i have'nt posted lately but i only have the weekends to work on this but to day i checked the power to the fuses as you stated and on fuse f4.20 in the battery juction box, this is a maxi fuse, i pulled the fuse and with a light tester i touched the 2 prongs seperately and i have power to one side only. for the fem f2.29 in the central box is dead...no power in off,run or running. the fuses looked good but i replaced anyways and its still the same. any suggestions? thanks for your input. Looking over the diagrams for the 2002 model year, I don't see any smoking gun that would tie all those systems together, other than the battery.

Weak batteries have been known to cause some interesting problems on the LS, make sure your battery is good, cables are clean and tight, and charging system is working.

There are two modules that are pretty common to all but the power moonroof. The Driver's Door Module gets its power from a few places. Also, the Front Electronics Module (FEM) is tied into most of these systems.

For the Driver's Door Module, be sure that fuse F4.20 (20A, hot at all times) in the Battery Junction Box is good and has power to both sides. Assuming power there is good, check fuse F4.20 (20A, hot in run) in the Auxilliary Junction Box is good and has power to both sides with the key in the run position. Also, make sure you have power to both sides of fuses F2.07 (5A, hot at all times) and F2.22 (10A, hot at all times) in the Central Junction Box are good and have power to both sides at all times.


For the FEM, fuse F2.29 (5A, hot at all times) in the Central Junction Box should be checked, as should fuse F4.26 (20A, hot at all times) in the Auxilliary Junction Box.

-Rod

Hello again Rod, sorry i have'nt posted lately but i only have the weekends to work on this but to day i checked the power to the fuses as you stated and on fuse f4.20 in the battery juction box, this is a maxi fuse, i pulled the fuse and with a light tester i touched the 2 prongs seperately and i have power to one side only. for the fem f2.29 in the central box is dead...no power in off,run or running. the fuses looked good but i replaced anyways and its still the same. any suggestions? thanks for your input.

So you pulled fuse F4.20, then measured the terminals in the fuse box with the light? If so, you should only have power to one side of the box with the fuse pulled. A good fuse will provide continuity and transfer the power from one side of the fuse to the other side.

When you checked for power to fuse F2.29, did you have any other fuses removed? If so, make sure all fuses are installed and check for power to F2.29 again.

-Rod

yes that is correct as far as fuse f4.20, checked this fuse for continuity and its good. now for fuse f2.29, sorry i messed up the earlier post. i do have power to this fuse only in run mode. i have a ford repair manual on cd that i just recieved today from ebay, browsing though this it says that f2.29 should only have power in run mode so i guess its checking out ok. i am totally new to electronics so this is all pretty confusing on this cd. also today i filled the gas up and spent about 10 minutes inside the store with engine running, when i got in the car the gas gauge read about half full so i drove it about 25 miles and the gauge slowly rose to full, and the message center says message center data error when i try to get into some of the infomation like setting easy in/easy out door locks and such. So you pulled fuse F4.20, then measured the terminals in the fuse box with the light? If so, you should only have power to one side of the box with the fuse pulled. A good fuse will provide continuity and transfer the power from one side of the fuse to the other side.

When you checked for power to fuse F2.29, did you have any other fuses removed? If so, make sure all fuses are installed and check for power to F2.29 again.

-Rod

The fuel gauge being slow to rise is normal. There is hysteresis built in to it so that it won't immediately show low or high when you go up a small hill, etc. I wouldn't expect it to take 25 miles to settle out, but maybe that was an exageration?

You didn't leave the engine running while fueling up the car, did you? Besides the potential safety risks to that, there is a chance that a diagnostic trouble code will be set. For the emissions monitoring of the computer, the PCM monitors the fuel tank pressure. If you remove the engine is started with the fuel cap loose or removed, the emissions monitor will detect this as a tank pressure concern and set a diagnostic code in the computer. It will likely also cause the "Check Fuel Cap" light to come on in the instrument cluster as well.

Not sure what to tell you regarding the information center. You'll probably need to find someone with a high end scan tool to scan that computer for codes.

-Rod

here is an update on my electrical problems on my 2000 LS, I took the car to the dealership after telling them the problem and they quoted me $85 dollars to diagnose the problem,I also spoke with a mechanic and he said the sunroof does not run thru the door module. I agree that that appears true when looking at wire diagrams BUT the module controls the security system which includes the sunroof. So they had the car 2 and a half hours and did the pinpoint tests and determined the door module is bad, said they could'nt communicate with it and there is power going to it but nothing coming out. I told the service guy that i suspected the module was bad before they diagnosed it but just wanted to make sure, he quotes me 292.dollars for the part and i tell him i can get it directly from ford for 206. and i ask if all they need to do is program the new module to work with my key fobs(remotes)?,he says it would probably take to my remotes without any programming, then he says there is other information in the module that they need to download and put on the new one. My question now,first is this true? and second, is it possible to download anything if the module is'nt working? also no one seems to know what the numbers and letters mean in the part number, i would like to try a used one if i knew it would work, is it one fits all 2000 LS's?

According to the factory service manual for the 2002 model year, it IS necessary to download the parameters from the Driver Door Module (DDM) prior to removal and upload the parameters to the new module when installed.

Also according to the service manual, "WDS will automatically attempt to retrieve the module configuration information from all modules, and from a backup location in the powertrain control module (PCM) when vehicle ID is carried out. If the module and the PCM do not contain correct information, the diagnostic tool will either request 'As Built' data or display a list of items that you will need to manually configure. The diagnostic tool will program the module based on the data you enter."

If the module is not properly configured, you'll probably get a diagnostic trouble code of B2477 or P1639.

-Rod

Here is the final update on the electrical problem, The windows,sunroof,power door looks,power mirrors,seat memory,security system, keyless remotes and some problems with the message center were all fixed by replacing the drivers door module and reprogramming. a breakdown of the cost was $85 to diagnose,$209. for module(online including shipping cost)....dealer wanted $292., $85.for reprogramming and install. Hope this helps anyone suffering any simular problems and thanks for your help Rod. now i will be posting a new thread for the next problems.