2000 astro - engine died, won't start

Hi!

Just joined, first post.

Bought a 2000 Astro (cargo 2WD) about a month ago. All was fine until today.

Engine died while climbing a hill. Turns over strong, but will not start.

I am new to Astros - but if I remember correctly, I used to hear the fuel pump run continuously when I turned the key to the "on" position. I would hear that hum until I either turned over the engine or turned the key back to the "off" position. Does this sound like an accurate description of the typical fuel pump operation?

I guess I am just questioning myself since I am so new to Astros... now all I hear when I turn the key to the "on" position is a 5 or 6 second hum in the vicinity of the doghouse. If my memory of the fuel pump sound is correct, I'd suspect I need a new pump.

Thanks for any insights!

Welcome to the forum! Congratulations on your first post!

The fuel pump circuits are designed to energize the fuel pump continuously when the key is turned to the START position. When the key is turned to the RUN position the fuel pump will operate provided the engine is running. If the engine stalls, or is not running for any reason, the ECM will shut off the fuel pump after approximately 2 to 3 seconds.

Fuel pressure test:
Install fuel pressure gauge. Turn the key to the RUN position, (do not start the engine). While the fuel pump is running, fuel pressure must be a MINIMUM of 60psi. After approximately 2 to 3 seconds, the fuel pump will shut off and fuel pressure must remain above 55psi for several minutes.

Thanks so much for the info.

Testing will begin today. Hopefully the problem is simple enough for me to figure out. ;)

Well, turned out to be a bad fuel pump, as suspected. Pressure test came in at about 30psi upon cranking.

Unfortunately the local dealer is getting over $600 for the fuel pump assembly. But, due to what I've read here, I am biting the bullet and going with the OEM part instead of a remanufactured or aftermarket.

Is 70,000 miles an average expected lifetime for these fuel pumps?

I service several 4.3L equipped vehicles and have found as a general rule of thumb, 100,000 miles is about average. There is always the exception to the rule though, I have one with 212,000 miles on the original pump. It still builds 63psi and holds pressure.

Thanks so much for the info. I feel a bit better about spending the $$ knowing I have a decent chance of getting a longer life out of the new pump.

#1 Replace the fuel filter every 10,000 miles. That keeps the amount of unnecessary stress on the pump to a minimum. #2 Don't make a habit of running with less than 1/2 tank of fuel. The fuel helps keep the pump cool, when fuel level drops below 1/2, the pump is not totally submerged in fuel. By the time you reach 1/4 tank, the pump is above the fuel. These two tips will increase pump longevity.

That's not normal. I currently have six GM EFI vehicles and have had several others. In 9 vehicles I can recall, I've never had an electric fuel pump failure. I HAVE had electrical problems in pump circuits which have resulted in inadequate pressure. The most recent was just last week in Mrs. Bowtie's Astro. The electrical connector in the top of the in-tank unit had failed (second time) and become resistive. I repaired the connection and the origial (91K miles) pump worked perfectly.

Unless the pumps are run dry or forced to ingest debris, they are really quite durable.

As for the pump immersion for cooling, the in-tank unit includes a reservoir which holds fuel to surround the pump down to the point of the tank being almost empty.

http://72.19.213.157/files/InTankUnit01.jpg

The real danger in running low is intermittent dry operation while accelerating, cornering, or braking, and drawing debris when the low level concenrates it around the pump puckup filter. Water will also be a problem, which is another reason to NEVER use SeaFoam as a fuel additive.

Well, as I only bought this van about 1 month and 800 miles ago, I cannot speak to its history as far as fuel additives, tank run empty, etc.

I can say that I noticed upon purchasing this van that the fuel pump seemed to be incredibly loud, so I suppose I half-expected a problem to come up. As it started and ran perfectly, I figured I could get away with ignoring it for a while. (As you can probably see, I am not a mechanic by trade. ;) )

And thanks for all the info on keeping the tank more full! I tend to fill er up at 1/4 tank remaining, but I'll start doing it sooner - at least I'll be spending less each time at the pump.

Don't make a habit of running with less than 1/2 tank of fuel

LOL, my daddy always said it cost the same to fill the top half of the tank as the bottom half and even offered my sister to pay to fill the bottom half as long as she promised to never use it.

As for the pump immersion for cooling, the in-tank unit includes a reservoir which holds fuel to surround the pump down to the point of the tank being almost empty.

i agree. the low fuel light on mine comes on with a little over two gallons of fuel left. more than enough to cool the pump but you do get more water condensation in an empty tank especialy when freezing temps cause the water to crystalize and drop out of the moist air into the fuel.

my daddy always said it cost the same to fill the top half of the tank as the bottom half

A wise man. (I suppose this relates to the mechanic's equivalent of "Is the tank half-empty or half-full?) ;)

So, after re-reading these replies, I set my memory to work, and remembered that I did allow the tank to run near-empty (about 1-2 gals left) about 2-3 weeks ago... this, in combination with an obviously worn and extremely loud fuel pump, could be the cause.

I suppose I'll find out for sure when I install the new pump today. (fingers crossed) I really hope I diagnosed this correctly (and completely), with the cost of that new pump...

Regardless, the info and advice offered here has been exceptional. A big thanks to all who have taken the time to help me out!

PS: Any other important info a new Astro owner should be aware of? In my research, I discovered the common PCV Valve issues (which apparently can be solved by replacing the poorly-designed GM PCV Valve with a specific aftermarket model, from what I've read at least), as well as periodic cleaning of the Wheel Speed Sensors.

Well, about $750 later :banghead: , I am back on the road.

Got the fuel pump in and it started right up - but had absolutely no power at all, and within 2 mins I got a check engine light. Code related to bad TPS Sensor, and I found lots of corrosion in the distributor cap/rotor, but after replacing these it now runs perfectly.

Thanks all!

PS: I am a house painter by trade, and I am among many pros who answer people's painting questions over at painterforum.com - if any of you folks have questions/problems while painting, I'd love the opportunity to return the favor y'all did for me. ;)