Suspension lift
dave92cherokee
02-10-2007, 05:48 PM
I am planning on doing a suspension lift to my 92 sport soon, the height of the lift is yet to be determined. I know I can get about 3 inches by repacking my leafs with the leafs from a 2wd early 90's s10 and the front coils from a early 90's F150, but I'm thinking about going higher than 3 inches like to around 10 or 12 using springs from a K5 blazer and ACOS units in the front along with the coils from a F150 4x4. The question I have is I keep reading about the slip yoke moving out when you get up to and above 3 inches and all the options with SYE's.
What I want to know is
1. Does the slip yoke only move out on the rear driveshaft or is it both?
2. Instead of a SYE kit has anyone out there done, seen, or heard of someone using a longer driveshaft to prevent the problem. I know they can be custom made but since I'm going to be getting the springs from a salvage yard wanted to know if there was a driveshaft off another vehicle that would work.
3. Is there another vehicle that I can use the pitman arm off of and get some control arm disconnects from. I've read online that the control arm disconnects from a f150 can be used since they're longer but not sure about it working on around a 12 inch lift.
Thanks for any info on any of the questions, when I finally get everything and start doing the lift I'll take pics and do a write up for the forum if the mod's want one.
What I want to know is
1. Does the slip yoke only move out on the rear driveshaft or is it both?
2. Instead of a SYE kit has anyone out there done, seen, or heard of someone using a longer driveshaft to prevent the problem. I know they can be custom made but since I'm going to be getting the springs from a salvage yard wanted to know if there was a driveshaft off another vehicle that would work.
3. Is there another vehicle that I can use the pitman arm off of and get some control arm disconnects from. I've read online that the control arm disconnects from a f150 can be used since they're longer but not sure about it working on around a 12 inch lift.
Thanks for any info on any of the questions, when I finally get everything and start doing the lift I'll take pics and do a write up for the forum if the mod's want one.
AlohaBra
02-10-2007, 08:45 PM
Have you noticed that no one makes a kit that goes up 10 or 12 inches?
The Jeep XJ Cherokee is a unit body and that means the body can't be lifted.
You are talking SYE, which is for the rear drive shaft.
Think about these other issues:
Front drive shaft length and angle
longer brake lines, which ones? custom?
Front control arms? how much longer?
Caster angle, the front housing mounting must be rewelded and the front arms need to be longer
what about flex, or don't care?
what about COG, center of gravity
how are you going to mount the ladder for getting into it?
what kind of tires and wheel are going to look good on a 12 in. lift?
what about pinion angles for both diffs, so the pinion bearing won't starve for lubrication?
enough for nowYou might get a magazine on extreme four wheelers and off-road rigs for ideas. Maybe then, you can start off with a tube chassis or a ford f-250 4x4 from the 70s or or so. They are already sky high to start with.
The Jeep XJ Cherokee is a unit body and that means the body can't be lifted.
You are talking SYE, which is for the rear drive shaft.
Think about these other issues:
Front drive shaft length and angle
longer brake lines, which ones? custom?
Front control arms? how much longer?
Caster angle, the front housing mounting must be rewelded and the front arms need to be longer
what about flex, or don't care?
what about COG, center of gravity
how are you going to mount the ladder for getting into it?
what kind of tires and wheel are going to look good on a 12 in. lift?
what about pinion angles for both diffs, so the pinion bearing won't starve for lubrication?
enough for nowYou might get a magazine on extreme four wheelers and off-road rigs for ideas. Maybe then, you can start off with a tube chassis or a ford f-250 4x4 from the 70s or or so. They are already sky high to start with.
Ray H
02-10-2007, 08:46 PM
I am planning on doing a suspension lift to my 92 sport soon, the height of the lift is yet to be determined. I know I can get about 3 inches by repacking my leafs with the leafs from a 2wd early 90's s10 and the front coils from a early 90's F150, but I'm thinking about going higher than 3 inches like to around 10 or 12 using springs from a K5 blazer and ACOS units in the front along with the coils from a F150 4x4. The question I have is I keep reading about the slip yoke moving out when you get up to and above 3 inches and all the options with SYE's.
What I want to know is
1. Does the slip yoke only move out on the rear driveshaft or is it both?
2. Instead of a SYE kit has anyone out there done, seen, or heard of someone using a longer driveshaft to prevent the problem. I know they can be custom made but since I'm going to be getting the springs from a salvage yard wanted to know if there was a driveshaft off another vehicle that would work.
3. Is there another vehicle that I can use the pitman arm off of and get some control arm disconnects from. I've read online that the control arm disconnects from a f150 can be used since they're longer but not sure about it working on around a 12 inch lift.
Thanks for any info on any of the questions, when I finally get everything and start doing the lift I'll take pics and do a write up for the forum if the mod's want one.
WoW !! Youre joking right?
10-12" of lift. Honestly I cant even begin to explain in one post what is needed to lift 12". Thats really a ridiculous amount of lift.
For starters, You will definately need new driveshafts, front and rear, you will need a SYE for the rear, you will need to convert to long arm suspension, probably some kind of system without a trackbar, you will not only need a drop pitamn but a high steer system. I dont know what size tire you are planning to look right with 10-12" lift but your stock axles arent up to anything bigger than 33s without some work. With 12" of lift, you really should consider full width axles from a full sized truck just for the correct proportion and for safety.
This project is alot (ALOT) more involved than slapping bigger springs on. If thats your plan, you will ruin your Jeep by making it nearly undrivable. By all means, Im all for the writeup, as a "this is what NOT to do to your XJ".
What I want to know is
1. Does the slip yoke only move out on the rear driveshaft or is it both?
2. Instead of a SYE kit has anyone out there done, seen, or heard of someone using a longer driveshaft to prevent the problem. I know they can be custom made but since I'm going to be getting the springs from a salvage yard wanted to know if there was a driveshaft off another vehicle that would work.
3. Is there another vehicle that I can use the pitman arm off of and get some control arm disconnects from. I've read online that the control arm disconnects from a f150 can be used since they're longer but not sure about it working on around a 12 inch lift.
Thanks for any info on any of the questions, when I finally get everything and start doing the lift I'll take pics and do a write up for the forum if the mod's want one.
WoW !! Youre joking right?
10-12" of lift. Honestly I cant even begin to explain in one post what is needed to lift 12". Thats really a ridiculous amount of lift.
For starters, You will definately need new driveshafts, front and rear, you will need a SYE for the rear, you will need to convert to long arm suspension, probably some kind of system without a trackbar, you will not only need a drop pitamn but a high steer system. I dont know what size tire you are planning to look right with 10-12" lift but your stock axles arent up to anything bigger than 33s without some work. With 12" of lift, you really should consider full width axles from a full sized truck just for the correct proportion and for safety.
This project is alot (ALOT) more involved than slapping bigger springs on. If thats your plan, you will ruin your Jeep by making it nearly undrivable. By all means, Im all for the writeup, as a "this is what NOT to do to your XJ".
dave92cherokee
02-10-2007, 10:21 PM
Well like I said I'm not sure about the height for now I'll probably go 3" lift by swapping out springs, new longer travel shocks, and the disconnects. I know it's possible to get up to and around 12" of lift and requires alot of other parts like you said but neither of you offered any advice for the beginning as to does the yoke also pull out from the front of the transfer case as it does the rear or not. Second would a longer driveshaft work in place of a SYE kit or would I need both for the 3" lift? Third is there another vehicle that has a pitman arm that would work for only lifting 3" or is one even needed at that height? When I get ready to start on the 12" lift I'm going to use skyjacker's 8" lift kit which converts it to long arm control arms, comes with an extreme drop pitman arm and everything needed except the SYE kit. When the time comes and I start doing that lift I will be turning it into a trail rig only redoing pretty much the entire suspension and drivetrain including axles, lockers, transfer case, driveshaft everything. As for what size tires I plan on putting on it I'm thinking about once it's lifted going with between 39's or 44's with new wheels. I know it's going to cost alot of money but it will be a big project. Right now I just want to get it lifted up about 3 or 4 inches and put 31's or 33's on it for going off roading but nothing crazy yet. And if you're wondering about the size of the lift here's a article that got my attention to the height of the lift.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/800667
He's lifted it 13" with 39's on it so I know it's possible it'll just take a good amount of money to do so. So if either of you can tell me for a 3-4" lift if there is another vehicle that has a driveshaft for front or rear or both that would work to eliminate the yoke coming out like it does then let me know, otherwise I'll look into getting a SYE system just don't want to spend that money right now if not absolutely needed for a small lift like that.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/800667
He's lifted it 13" with 39's on it so I know it's possible it'll just take a good amount of money to do so. So if either of you can tell me for a 3-4" lift if there is another vehicle that has a driveshaft for front or rear or both that would work to eliminate the yoke coming out like it does then let me know, otherwise I'll look into getting a SYE system just don't want to spend that money right now if not absolutely needed for a small lift like that.
Ray H
02-10-2007, 11:17 PM
Ok, if its a 3-4" lift you want to know about. Heres the scoop.
The front driveshaft does not pull out of the t-case like the rear one does. You really should crawl underneath and take a look at stuff before considering what you need to lift it.
On a 92 you may or may not need a SYE for the rear drive. Some people get by without it but if I were you I would budget and even plan for it. If youre lucky, you wont need any modification to the rear drive line. If you get some vibes, you may get by with using a slip yoke from a YJ so it contacts more of the output shaft, they are almost an inch longer then an XJ slip yoke. You may be able to drop the transfer case an inch or so. If that doesnt work, you can use an XJ (w/automatic tranny) front driveshaft and either a Rubicon Express hack and tap SYE or theres a spicer yoke that will slide over and bolt to the stock output shaft. If your plans are to eventually lift it 12", just go ahead and get a nice HD SYE if it turns out that you need one for 3-4" because you will definately need it at 12"
You dont need, nor would I suggest, a drop pitamn for 3-4" lift.
I dont know what you're talking about when you say "control arm disconnects". Theres no such thing. There are swaybar disconnects but Im not sure thats what you are talking about because you mentioned using Ford parts. The only Ford part you could be talking about is a radius arm which on home brew lifts, replaces the control arms. You dont need that for 3-4" of lift. If its the swaybar disconnects you are asking about, you can go to the hardware store and pick up a couple clevis pins to replace the bottom bolts or you can buy a set of disconnects. Its probably worth it to pick up a set of used disconnects as opposed to making them.
The front driveshaft does not pull out of the t-case like the rear one does. You really should crawl underneath and take a look at stuff before considering what you need to lift it.
On a 92 you may or may not need a SYE for the rear drive. Some people get by without it but if I were you I would budget and even plan for it. If youre lucky, you wont need any modification to the rear drive line. If you get some vibes, you may get by with using a slip yoke from a YJ so it contacts more of the output shaft, they are almost an inch longer then an XJ slip yoke. You may be able to drop the transfer case an inch or so. If that doesnt work, you can use an XJ (w/automatic tranny) front driveshaft and either a Rubicon Express hack and tap SYE or theres a spicer yoke that will slide over and bolt to the stock output shaft. If your plans are to eventually lift it 12", just go ahead and get a nice HD SYE if it turns out that you need one for 3-4" because you will definately need it at 12"
You dont need, nor would I suggest, a drop pitamn for 3-4" lift.
I dont know what you're talking about when you say "control arm disconnects". Theres no such thing. There are swaybar disconnects but Im not sure thats what you are talking about because you mentioned using Ford parts. The only Ford part you could be talking about is a radius arm which on home brew lifts, replaces the control arms. You dont need that for 3-4" of lift. If its the swaybar disconnects you are asking about, you can go to the hardware store and pick up a couple clevis pins to replace the bottom bolts or you can buy a set of disconnects. Its probably worth it to pick up a set of used disconnects as opposed to making them.
AlohaBra
02-11-2007, 12:41 AM
Okay..
Lift height and driveablity is cost:
2 in. lift- $200
3 in. lift-$500+
4 in. lift-$1500
5 in. lift-$5000+10 in lift-never done-$unlimited
If you go to a Chevy dealer and look at a lifted Silverado truck, you will see a $10,000 lift kit in it. That is just for looks...you need to add rock rail, skids, etc.
I think $10,000 is a good budget for a "Rubicon ready" Jeep XJ. Or $30,000 for the 2007 Wrangler with factory lockers and electronic disconnects. It also comes with rock rails and 32 in. MT tires. Of couse, aftermarket lift kits, bumpers and winch will be extra. I would like one of these.
Lift height and driveablity is cost:
2 in. lift- $200
3 in. lift-$500+
4 in. lift-$1500
5 in. lift-$5000+10 in lift-never done-$unlimited
If you go to a Chevy dealer and look at a lifted Silverado truck, you will see a $10,000 lift kit in it. That is just for looks...you need to add rock rail, skids, etc.
I think $10,000 is a good budget for a "Rubicon ready" Jeep XJ. Or $30,000 for the 2007 Wrangler with factory lockers and electronic disconnects. It also comes with rock rails and 32 in. MT tires. Of couse, aftermarket lift kits, bumpers and winch will be extra. I would like one of these.
AlohaBra
02-11-2007, 12:48 AM
Sway bar disconnects
As to the cheap way I do it..I take a socket wrench with me and take off the top nuts and bushings. I put these away in a box and put a piece of hose over the threads.
Then I use nylon tie wraps and secure the sway bar. Then I just drive.
Later, I reconnect. It all take about 2 minutes each time.
I use blue lock-tie on the nut when I reconnect. I use urethane bushings and no rear sway bar. I have an excellent ride quality off-road.
As to the cheap way I do it..I take a socket wrench with me and take off the top nuts and bushings. I put these away in a box and put a piece of hose over the threads.
Then I use nylon tie wraps and secure the sway bar. Then I just drive.
Later, I reconnect. It all take about 2 minutes each time.
I use blue lock-tie on the nut when I reconnect. I use urethane bushings and no rear sway bar. I have an excellent ride quality off-road.
AlohaBra
02-11-2007, 03:24 PM
http://www.ericsxj.com/
This site might have your answers.
He also wrote a book on lifting Cherokees.
This site might have your answers.
He also wrote a book on lifting Cherokees.
wagonbldr
02-11-2007, 07:11 PM
I found this site for a cheap 4" lift.
http:/www.lunghd.com
http:/www.lunghd.com
AlohaBra
02-11-2007, 07:56 PM
And if you're wondering about the size of the lift here's a article that got my attention to the height of the lift.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/800667
He's lifted it 13" with 39's on it so I know it's possible it'll just take a good amount of money to do so. So if either of you can tell me for a 3-4" lift if there is another vehicle that has a driveshaft for front or rear or both that would work to eliminate the yoke coming out like it does then let me know, otherwise I'll look into getting a SYE system just don't want to spend that money right now if not absolutely needed for a small lift like that.
No. 1--on a 92 with a three inch lift you might not need the SYE and you can probably use the original driveshaft.
No. 2--I looked at the link you have up there...he has a 9 in lift in front and a 4.5 inch lift in back with three inch block. So..no...we don't call that a 13 inch lift...it is 9 inch in front and 7.5 inch in back. BLOCKS ARE BAD...most people will tell you that...they fubar up the leaf springs.
No. 3--Notice how he says with the 38 inch tires he needs regearing real "BAAAd"...
No. 4--He is probably in it for 5000 bucks at least and a LOT of labor.
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/800667
He's lifted it 13" with 39's on it so I know it's possible it'll just take a good amount of money to do so. So if either of you can tell me for a 3-4" lift if there is another vehicle that has a driveshaft for front or rear or both that would work to eliminate the yoke coming out like it does then let me know, otherwise I'll look into getting a SYE system just don't want to spend that money right now if not absolutely needed for a small lift like that.
No. 1--on a 92 with a three inch lift you might not need the SYE and you can probably use the original driveshaft.
No. 2--I looked at the link you have up there...he has a 9 in lift in front and a 4.5 inch lift in back with three inch block. So..no...we don't call that a 13 inch lift...it is 9 inch in front and 7.5 inch in back. BLOCKS ARE BAD...most people will tell you that...they fubar up the leaf springs.
No. 3--Notice how he says with the 38 inch tires he needs regearing real "BAAAd"...
No. 4--He is probably in it for 5000 bucks at least and a LOT of labor.
citizen@large
02-11-2007, 11:39 PM
Whoa Nelly!!!! LMMFAOROFLBBQWWTDD??!!! Right? :screwy: :lol: :grinyes:
Well now that I've gotten all that out of the way, if your ex$pense acct. is right, the "GRAVEDIGGER"!!!!! is just down the road from me in Currituck, NC on US-158. I'm more than sure that they'd custom the whole jobby for ya'. :evillol: :rofl:
OK, OK. Whew, I'm done. All-right, the truth is I just can't afford, or ever see myself affording anything like that level of 'country' thinkin'. :disappoin :wink: :icon16:
__________________________________________________ ________________
Here's mine, and what I run... The "Urban Crawler"
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k169/citizenatlarge/2.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k169/citizenatlarge/StormyXJ.jpg
*'98 Cherokee Limited * 4.0L HO 6 cyl With Automatic Trans and 242 Transfer Case * Rusty's 4.5" Front and Rear, 1.5" Shackles Rear * Clayton Long Arms Setup * Custom Upper Rear Shock Mount Crossmember * Heavy Duty Track Bar and Frame Mount * JKS Quicker Discos * Front Stainless Braided Brake Lines * Dana 30 Front Axle With 4.10 gears and ARB Air Locker * Ford 8.8 Rear Axle With 4.10 gears, Disc Brakes and ARB Air Locker * ARB Onboard Air Compressor * Transfer Case and Gas Tank Skid Plates * Rear 2" Receiver Hitch * Front Tow Hooks * Surco Safari Rack With 4 Hella 500's (3 Front and 1 Rear) * Two 55 Watt Backup Lights Mounted Inside Rear Bumper * Custom 4x4 Fabrication Double Tube Rock Rails * Lower Section of Doors, Fenders and Rear Body Panel, Bumpers and Fender Flares Herculined * Cheapo Cobra CB Radio * Huskyliner Dish Style Floormats * SYE & CV Driveshaft Conversion * 33x12.50 BF Goodrich Radial Mud Terrain KM's on AR 767s w/Full Spare * 700 Watt Power Inverter Mounted Under Passenger Seat * Boston Acoustics Front Speakers, Infinity Kappa Rear Speakers *K&N Cone Filter *Pace Setter Headers (PITA!) *62mm Bored Throttle Body *1" 62mm Bored Throttle Body Spacer * Etc...
I found this rig locally just after Thanksgiving '06. The previous owner was asking $7800. He settled at $5800.. Since then, I put on the 33x12.50" tires (4+ a full spare), [with fender trimming], and the bored TB and TB spacers for around $1250 total. On top of what I paid for the rest that was already done for her... http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/36/36_3_1.gif !
My point is that there is really no reason that I can fathom to torture one's self to an extremely unecessary height.(UNLE$$, TO PRODUCE A $HOW TRUCK) The JEEP was, and is made to function. On and Off-Road, at stock or moderately, (by GRAVEDIGGER standards), lifted heights!(3-6.5"!) I have never seen nor heard of the 'Amazing Hummer2',(who makes those things BTW?), out-wheeling any model of JEEP at the same height, given the same calibur of driver. :2cents: JMHO...
~Good Luck!
Well now that I've gotten all that out of the way, if your ex$pense acct. is right, the "GRAVEDIGGER"!!!!! is just down the road from me in Currituck, NC on US-158. I'm more than sure that they'd custom the whole jobby for ya'. :evillol: :rofl:
OK, OK. Whew, I'm done. All-right, the truth is I just can't afford, or ever see myself affording anything like that level of 'country' thinkin'. :disappoin :wink: :icon16:
__________________________________________________ ________________
Here's mine, and what I run... The "Urban Crawler"
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k169/citizenatlarge/2.jpg
http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k169/citizenatlarge/StormyXJ.jpg
*'98 Cherokee Limited * 4.0L HO 6 cyl With Automatic Trans and 242 Transfer Case * Rusty's 4.5" Front and Rear, 1.5" Shackles Rear * Clayton Long Arms Setup * Custom Upper Rear Shock Mount Crossmember * Heavy Duty Track Bar and Frame Mount * JKS Quicker Discos * Front Stainless Braided Brake Lines * Dana 30 Front Axle With 4.10 gears and ARB Air Locker * Ford 8.8 Rear Axle With 4.10 gears, Disc Brakes and ARB Air Locker * ARB Onboard Air Compressor * Transfer Case and Gas Tank Skid Plates * Rear 2" Receiver Hitch * Front Tow Hooks * Surco Safari Rack With 4 Hella 500's (3 Front and 1 Rear) * Two 55 Watt Backup Lights Mounted Inside Rear Bumper * Custom 4x4 Fabrication Double Tube Rock Rails * Lower Section of Doors, Fenders and Rear Body Panel, Bumpers and Fender Flares Herculined * Cheapo Cobra CB Radio * Huskyliner Dish Style Floormats * SYE & CV Driveshaft Conversion * 33x12.50 BF Goodrich Radial Mud Terrain KM's on AR 767s w/Full Spare * 700 Watt Power Inverter Mounted Under Passenger Seat * Boston Acoustics Front Speakers, Infinity Kappa Rear Speakers *K&N Cone Filter *Pace Setter Headers (PITA!) *62mm Bored Throttle Body *1" 62mm Bored Throttle Body Spacer * Etc...
I found this rig locally just after Thanksgiving '06. The previous owner was asking $7800. He settled at $5800.. Since then, I put on the 33x12.50" tires (4+ a full spare), [with fender trimming], and the bored TB and TB spacers for around $1250 total. On top of what I paid for the rest that was already done for her... http://smileys.smileycentral.com/cat/36/36_3_1.gif !
My point is that there is really no reason that I can fathom to torture one's self to an extremely unecessary height.(UNLE$$, TO PRODUCE A $HOW TRUCK) The JEEP was, and is made to function. On and Off-Road, at stock or moderately, (by GRAVEDIGGER standards), lifted heights!(3-6.5"!) I have never seen nor heard of the 'Amazing Hummer2',(who makes those things BTW?), out-wheeling any model of JEEP at the same height, given the same calibur of driver. :2cents: JMHO...
~Good Luck!
AlohaBra
02-12-2007, 01:47 AM
Wow...that is a beautiful buy...
I think some of those lift numbers on his post (BTTT) include the tire height..
I said that is not the way we talk about it...
Suspension height is the spring height...not the body height..
EDIT: especially having the ARB lockers with the onboard air.....awesome.
I think some of those lift numbers on his post (BTTT) include the tire height..
I said that is not the way we talk about it...
Suspension height is the spring height...not the body height..
EDIT: especially having the ARB lockers with the onboard air.....awesome.
Ray H
02-12-2007, 01:58 AM
Well, There it is, its out there now.
Aloha and I have shown great restraint, but now the dam has broken.
BahHahahahaha ---- Bahahahahahah----HaHa---Bahahahahah-----mmmmm----Bahahahahahaha:iceslolan :iceslolan :grinyes: :grinyes: :iceslolan :grinyes: :lol: :grinyes: :iceslolan :lol: :grinyes: :lol: :grinyes:
Ok, sorry, Im ok now.
Aloha and I have shown great restraint, but now the dam has broken.
BahHahahahaha ---- Bahahahahahah----HaHa---Bahahahahah-----mmmmm----Bahahahahahaha:iceslolan :iceslolan :grinyes: :grinyes: :iceslolan :grinyes: :lol: :grinyes: :iceslolan :lol: :grinyes: :lol: :grinyes:
Ok, sorry, Im ok now.
citizen@large
02-15-2007, 12:40 AM
Wow...that is a beautiful buy...
EDIT: especially having the ARB lockers with the onboard air.....awesome.
Srry... haven't looked back for a few...
Man let me tell you, I'M IN LOVE MAN!!! Every d*mn day I even look out the bloody window, I striaght stare at her for a good long while. . . Then I think to myself, 'Wow, dude... you really own that thing. What do ya wanna do to her next?' I just can't believe it. Really. It just won't sink in! I love it! :rofl:
I sent you a pm a while back just before I bought it to get some advice about some/all of the mods to ultimately try and figure out if it was worth the 78 he was asking. I dunno what happened, but let me tell ya, I sure as h*ll went to 'look at it' with ca$h in tow!- Right after I spent the night before trying to add all of it up. I quit researching when I hit the $10,000 mark. (4k for the rig itself) And all of that was w/o any labor added in!! :eek:
The OBA is pretty cool, although slow as can be for re-airing. But it does get the job done. The lockers themselves are fantastic! They work flawlessly and seem bombproof enough to me...:licka:
The only thing for me now is to find some decent rocks in the mud-hills of VA! OH!- And bumpers, I really want some nice solid bumpers! LOL
EDIT: especially having the ARB lockers with the onboard air.....awesome.
Srry... haven't looked back for a few...
Man let me tell you, I'M IN LOVE MAN!!! Every d*mn day I even look out the bloody window, I striaght stare at her for a good long while. . . Then I think to myself, 'Wow, dude... you really own that thing. What do ya wanna do to her next?' I just can't believe it. Really. It just won't sink in! I love it! :rofl:
I sent you a pm a while back just before I bought it to get some advice about some/all of the mods to ultimately try and figure out if it was worth the 78 he was asking. I dunno what happened, but let me tell ya, I sure as h*ll went to 'look at it' with ca$h in tow!- Right after I spent the night before trying to add all of it up. I quit researching when I hit the $10,000 mark. (4k for the rig itself) And all of that was w/o any labor added in!! :eek:
The OBA is pretty cool, although slow as can be for re-airing. But it does get the job done. The lockers themselves are fantastic! They work flawlessly and seem bombproof enough to me...:licka:
The only thing for me now is to find some decent rocks in the mud-hills of VA! OH!- And bumpers, I really want some nice solid bumpers! LOL
danzel
07-30-2007, 09:26 PM
wow good looking Cherokee..nice buy..can i see the interior..i guess it looks good with a huskyliner (http://www.speedyperformanceparts.com/huskyliner_p.html) floor mats which engineered to add utility to your sports car.
citizen@large
07-31-2007, 08:46 PM
Way to dig it up danzel!~ ok, sure.
Edit- I was going to take the opportunity snap some newer pics, but the humidity is @ 100% and the blasted lens just fogs over. These pics are by the previous owner.
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/4287/jeep32bv1.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep32bv1.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/5990/jeep28fl8.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep28fl8.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/6586/jeep21pb1.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep21pb1.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/8494/jeep2hv9.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep2hv9.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3426/jeep58vw9.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep58vw9.jpg)http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/6141/jeep36vl4.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep36vl4.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/4839/jeep17rk0.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep17rk0.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/2447/jeep35lr7.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep35lr7.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3426/jeep58vw9.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep58vw9.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/5015/jeep39as6.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep39as6.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3315/jeep38rx7.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep38rx7.jpg) These shots show what I think is most relevant to your querry and to what was previously posted...
What she looked like on 31" BFG MT's (w/3 flares ;))~ lol ~ http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/5952/jeep44ss7.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep44ss7.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/7401/jeep45ve6.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep45ve6.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/6660/jeep1aq7.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep1aq7.jpg) I have done nothing to the suspension since the tire change. I have though, trimmed the fenders and still require bumpstops to keep the rear from getting shredded anymore. (NOTE- The 31's also had significant slices in them w/a rusty's 4.5" full lift kit)
That's it. I'm starting a pics thread... http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/8207/xjbeach3yo1.th.gif (http://img441.imageshack.us/my.php?image=xjbeach3yo1.gif) Someday!!!
Edit- I was going to take the opportunity snap some newer pics, but the humidity is @ 100% and the blasted lens just fogs over. These pics are by the previous owner.
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/4287/jeep32bv1.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep32bv1.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/5990/jeep28fl8.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep28fl8.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/6586/jeep21pb1.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep21pb1.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/8494/jeep2hv9.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep2hv9.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3426/jeep58vw9.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep58vw9.jpg)http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/6141/jeep36vl4.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep36vl4.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/4839/jeep17rk0.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep17rk0.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/2447/jeep35lr7.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep35lr7.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3426/jeep58vw9.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep58vw9.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/5015/jeep39as6.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep39as6.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3315/jeep38rx7.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep38rx7.jpg) These shots show what I think is most relevant to your querry and to what was previously posted...
What she looked like on 31" BFG MT's (w/3 flares ;))~ lol ~ http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/5952/jeep44ss7.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep44ss7.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/7401/jeep45ve6.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep45ve6.jpg) http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/6660/jeep1aq7.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/my.php?image=jeep1aq7.jpg) I have done nothing to the suspension since the tire change. I have though, trimmed the fenders and still require bumpstops to keep the rear from getting shredded anymore. (NOTE- The 31's also had significant slices in them w/a rusty's 4.5" full lift kit)
That's it. I'm starting a pics thread... http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/8207/xjbeach3yo1.th.gif (http://img441.imageshack.us/my.php?image=xjbeach3yo1.gif) Someday!!!
jlc55
11-17-2009, 09:56 PM
need some help...I have a 98 jeep cherokee just like citizen's..its got a lift kit but dont know how high..its got some 3in. spacers on the rear where the leaf springs are between the u-bolts...my problem is that on the left rear, the spacer is sliding backwards .. is there anything that i can do-it-myself or would i have to take it to someone..any suggestions will be appreciated
http://jeep.jpg
http://jeep.jpg
MagicRat
11-18-2009, 11:33 AM
need some help...I have a 98 jeep cherokee just like citizen's..its got a lift kit but dont know how high..its got some 3in. spacers on the rear where the leaf springs are between the u-bolts...my problem is that on the left rear, the spacer is sliding backwards .. is there anything that i can do-it-myself or would i have to take it to someone..any suggestions will be appreciated
http://jeep.jpg
The spacer is held in place by an approx. 1/4 inch stud that fits into a recess in the axle pad. In turn the spring pack also have a stud that fits into a recess in the spacer.
If the spacer is sliding backwards, it means that both the studs on the springs and the spacer both are missing or broken....... or the spacer was improperly made and doesn't have any studs at all :(
So, raise the rear using jackstands on the frame. Support the rear axle using a jack,and remove the wheel. Then unbolt the 2 U-bolts on the affected side.
Allow the rear axle to drop about 1 inch and remove the spacer. Look at the spacer and axle for the appropriatestuds and recesses. If they are missing or broken, take pictures and post them back here. It's possible to get new studs welded on if necessary.
It's possible they were installed upside down, and the shaft of the stud has been pressed into the body of the spacer. If this has occured, you might be able to hammer that stud out and install the spacer with the correct orientation
Also, note when you put the spacers back in, they have a particular orientation. Sometimes they are marked 'top' and 'forward'. If not, note they are slightly tapered, and the thinner end of the spacer points forward.
http://jeep.jpg
The spacer is held in place by an approx. 1/4 inch stud that fits into a recess in the axle pad. In turn the spring pack also have a stud that fits into a recess in the spacer.
If the spacer is sliding backwards, it means that both the studs on the springs and the spacer both are missing or broken....... or the spacer was improperly made and doesn't have any studs at all :(
So, raise the rear using jackstands on the frame. Support the rear axle using a jack,and remove the wheel. Then unbolt the 2 U-bolts on the affected side.
Allow the rear axle to drop about 1 inch and remove the spacer. Look at the spacer and axle for the appropriatestuds and recesses. If they are missing or broken, take pictures and post them back here. It's possible to get new studs welded on if necessary.
It's possible they were installed upside down, and the shaft of the stud has been pressed into the body of the spacer. If this has occured, you might be able to hammer that stud out and install the spacer with the correct orientation
Also, note when you put the spacers back in, they have a particular orientation. Sometimes they are marked 'top' and 'forward'. If not, note they are slightly tapered, and the thinner end of the spacer points forward.
jlc55
11-18-2009, 05:27 PM
thanx for the info...just went to some shope and thats what they told me that the spacer has a bolt that might have broken off...they said they'd fix it for only 180 bucks!! i said thanks and went and bought that universal bolt for 5 bucks and plan to do it myself.. can i olny unscrew the affected side and this will not affect the side thats ok?? hope everything comes out ok...
MagicRat
11-19-2009, 01:18 PM
thanx for the info...just went to some shope and thats what they told me that the spacer has a bolt that might have broken off...they said they'd fix it for only 180 bucks!! i said thanks and went and bought that universal bolt for 5 bucks and plan to do it myself.. can i olny unscrew the affected side and this will not affect the side thats ok?? hope everything comes out ok...
Just remove the affected side.
BTW it's not a 'bolt' in the spacer.Typically, the spacer has a hole drilled in it. A round piece of metal rod is knocked into the hole so 1/4 inch protrudes at one end, leaving a 1/4 inch deep hole at the other. If you simply put a bolt in it, the spacermay not fit under the spring pack properly.
If the repair method is not obvious, just disassemble, take pics and post back here.
Just remove the affected side.
BTW it's not a 'bolt' in the spacer.Typically, the spacer has a hole drilled in it. A round piece of metal rod is knocked into the hole so 1/4 inch protrudes at one end, leaving a 1/4 inch deep hole at the other. If you simply put a bolt in it, the spacermay not fit under the spring pack properly.
If the repair method is not obvious, just disassemble, take pics and post back here.
jlc55
11-19-2009, 08:49 PM
whats the torque on the u-bolts nuts..or hand force will do it?
MagicRat
11-21-2009, 12:08 AM
whats the torque on the u-bolts nuts..or hand force will do it?
Tighten them down to about 70 ft.lbs. I will check my Jeep manual tomorrow if I can for the exact spec.
Note you have to tighten all 4 nuts in sequence, in steps. When you install the bolts, hand-tighten them all. Then tighten all 4 to 10 ft.lbs, then tighten all 4 to 20 ft.lbs, then 30 ft.lbs etc.
This will make sure you don't overstress or bend any of the U-bolts when tightening.
Tighten them down to about 70 ft.lbs. I will check my Jeep manual tomorrow if I can for the exact spec.
Note you have to tighten all 4 nuts in sequence, in steps. When you install the bolts, hand-tighten them all. Then tighten all 4 to 10 ft.lbs, then tighten all 4 to 20 ft.lbs, then 30 ft.lbs etc.
This will make sure you don't overstress or bend any of the U-bolts when tightening.
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