Lubing alternator bearings

Is this possible? How can you do it? This may be a job for GMmerlin...

Is this possible? How can you do it? This may be a job for GMmerlin...


now days thay are sealed bearings. you must take apart the altenator to replace them. a good press for bearings is some times needed.

if your alt is good just bad bearings. I would check and see if there is a altenator shop neer you. I have a really good one just a few miles from my house. if its a simple job its done as you wate.

If you have the CS-130 (or variant) alternator, it's fairly easy. You have to desolder the stator connections to disassemble the alternator, but that's about the hardest part. The rear bearing outer race "bore" is actually a plastic sleeve which is an integral part of the brush holder assembly. The front bearing is an easy push fit in the housing. You'll need a Fafnir 230PP and 202PP bearing, or MRC/Fag/INA 6203 and 6202 sealed bearing. The old ones can usually be pulled from the rotor with a smaller jaw-type puller, and the new ones can be heated enough on a cone mounter to just drop right in place.

It might be a good idea to have a new pair of brushes on hand just in case the originals show some wear. And it would be good to have some fresh silicone thermal heat sink compound to mount the regulator and rectifier assembly.

The hardest part about the whole job is usually getting the alternator off and back on the mounting brackets.

Here is an easier way:Buy a new a new alternator.No one takes apart alternators anymore and it is a lot easier by saving time installing a new alternator

:D

I must be nobody...

I'll agree that NEW is usually a safe choice, and easy to get a reliable unit. It's hard to miss as long as you're spoending someone else's money. Be a little wary of rebuilt unless you don't mind doing a little checking before installation.

I take apart and rebuild/repair alternators with viable stators, rotors, slip rings and shafts because of the common danger of "Quality Remanufactured" units ending up being a mix-and-mismatch of 140A rotors in 100A stators, undersized rectifier bridges, and bulk-rate-lowest-bidder-discount, non-ABEC rated bearings used to assemble them. Thje fact that they are "100% quality Tested" usually means they were clamped in a test bench at room temperature, tested to output at least 13V at 30A for a whole 10 seconds, and if the Made in Antarctica bearings didn't fail within that gruelling ten-second "life test", it gets the "Quality" seal. Then is sits in a box on a warehouse shelf ten months while the grease in the bearings dries out, and the balls start to brinell into the races.

Other than that, it's a waste of time.

It is usually much faster to simply bolt in an exchange unit, but at least purchase a good one. It's been said that you get what you pay for. Often, you get less.