Fuel Cut

I just got a 3inch exhaust and DP and when im on the throttle 90-100% i get fuel cut usually between 5500-6500rpm and only in 1st or 2nd gear and it wasnt doing it before the exhaust
but i dont know why?

New pump and minimum 550 injectors, get them and you'll be good.

i have walbro 190 but i didnt think 11.5 psi could cause fuel cut with the 16g

You're still running stock injectors. Do you have any type of logger to see exactly how bad your damaging your engine?

unfortunately not. should i not drive it until i can get it tuned. Should i be really worried now?

nah thompson is just scaring you... Yea you can mess it up by knocking the shit out of it while running too lean but if you havne't thrown a rod yet your still ok...sorta. You could have done damage to your engine but really 450's are just not enough get an afc and some bigger injectors.
On a side note.. thats why Mitsubishi stopped making eprom ecu's and has a/f run at about 9.5/1 on a stock tune for people like this :)

you can drive it just don't boost the shit out of it

Drive it like a grandma got it. But i didnt think the evo3 16g could
stretch the stock fuel system like that

yea it can flow 42lbs/min. That murders the stock t-25. It really is a bigger turbo supports about twice the horsepower. Think of it in those terms and you see why the it can really hurt you.

Undersestimating my turbo apparently. I was thinking of getting 750 injectors those should work now and into the future when i push the 300 hp mark right?

Yes, they'll be enough.

Thanks for the help/ advice

just wanted to make sure you gotta have some form of tuning tool when you get those 750 afc won't really be able to help you since the injector size is so much higher than stock. 680's will manage the 16g and you can still use afc. Just wanted to add that on.

Yeah, 750's are too big for SAFC. I would just 650's, I think those will do you fine and thats about as big as SAFC can handle. Until then, dont hit boost and you should be fine.

Fuel cut is caused by reaching a preprogramed airflow value within the ECU and has nothing to do with fuel delivery. Have you check for leaks? Running the 16g @ 11.5psi is not enough to hit fuel cut.

Do you have a logger?

thats what i thought i have not checked for leaks. wouldnt a leak lower the amount of airflow??

Yes but if you are leaking enough air it will mess up your Air/Fuel ratio. It just depends on how bad of a leak it is.

How would adding an exhaust cause a leak because there were absolutely no problems before the exhaust. I know it can speed up spool time and maybe add a little to the PSi but i didnt think it would mess with either of those things to cause a A/F mixup

New record a triple post.
Adding an exhaust means more air can flow. More air needs more fuel. Causing your injectors to be maxed out.
Also just cause your boost gauge is reading 11.5 doesn't necessarily mean thats what your boosting it could be wrong; it could have a leak in the vacuum hose or simply not be properly calibrated/lost calibration.
I agree that 11.5 on the 16g shouldn't be too much, but the fact of the matter is its happening. It could be a clogged fuel filter for all I know.

actually i still have the stock boost gauge in my current one is broken and i was going to get it fixed with the next paycheck but it looks like im gonna be buying a whole bunch of other things. running 1gen fuel injectors would still need a tuning device right? or could the stock ecu handle that cuz im really in no position drop 500 bucks for injectors and a tuning computer. So a boost leak test, fuel filter check, fuel injector cleaner? and continue from there becasue those are all cheaper options any other precationary/cheap checks i should perform.

Hold on then how do you know your running 11.5 psi?
stock boost gauge tells you nothing.
Also 450's in 2g i don't know what you think they got in 1g's

If you don't have a boost gauge, how do you know that you're running 11.5 psi? Get a boost gauge, a clean fuel filter, and do a boost leak test.

thats where it was set when i got it and i havent touched the MBC since then i got it from DragonofBC. thats where ill start then

well just turn your boost controller down a few turns and that should keep you safe. And then at least you can boost it a bit.
also you should definitely check out the upgrade path on dsmtuners.com

I have. in fact i have it bookmarked it just that ive had some expensive ass speeding tickets and other car problems that had kept me in debt until now basically. thank god im gonna have some birthday money coming in soon so hopefully i get everything back the way it should be

its won't be long.. or hard to do no worries

I cant do a MAF hack becasue i dont have fuel management but what about a chip i got this site from DSMtuners
http://www.dsmchips.com/2g.html

It may work, but why don't you just upgrade the right way? You'll get the chip, then upgrade the rest of your system, and won't need the chip anymore. Waste of money IMO.

ah ha but i wont have the money for the proper upgrades for another 2 months and for me, thats way too long to even have the possibility of doing serious damage to the engine. plus the chip seems like it has some things that could benefit future upgrades too. I would really rather just skip safc too and go to dsmlink but thats even more expensive. I was going to stop with the exhaust and save up for injectors FMIC and DSMlink and put them in before college.

What about gen 2 GMmaf translator?

Why don't you just turn down the boost a little bit and run it safely until you can upgrade. That chip may work for now, but I'm pretty sure once you get link you'll throw that thing in the garbage, therefore deeming it an unnecessary upgrade.

I did i turned it almost all the way down but it still happens i dont htink it can go much lower than 11.5. Someday im gonna get a bigger turbo too but that doesnt mean my 16g is worhtless

|If you turned your boost all the way down and it still happens then boost isn't whats causing it

thats why im getting boost leak tester and fuel filter. I turned the controller down as much as possible and it doesnt feel any slower either. No boost control would cause fuel cut i would imagine, im getting the gauge on either saturday or tuesday so ill see what happens. Could a cracked valve cover leak enough air to throw off the A/F. I think those are all the problems i can think of that might casue it. Thorow out any other causes and ill check if if i can. I havent broken 4000rpm all week so i think im staying safe

The valve cover has nothing to do with the A/F, all it does is cover up the cams/rockers/lifters and everything inside the head.

I just figured id throw that out there.

Is there anyreason the fuel cut might stop becasue tonight i didnt get it at all it the only thing different is that its only 20 degrees and it was 2 minutes after i started my car

No, actually fuel cut technically should happen more when it's colder, because the engine is theoretically making more power.