New Rotors

My back rotors are out and I think I might just replace all of my rotors. I have drilled and slotted now, but as someone previously called me out a long time ago, they are ebay rotors. I ordered them a couple years ago when I needed rotors, because I didn't know much about cars. After I educated myself and started buying only the best aftermarket parts, I realized that it was only a matter of time before my rotors gave out... well 2 years later, here I am. I love the look of the slotted rotors and I love the response. Does anyone know where and/or what kind of LAGIT slotted rotors I can buy? I know they make them, I was just looking for some suggestions.
:disappoin :banghead:

I do not have brembo. Will these brakes under "spec v" fit? I'm not sure what the numbers and psr/psl mean. I have heard good things about these and I know a lot of people use them. Do you think this should be my rotor of choice?

http://www.pdm-racing.com/products/brakesrotor.html

check out nissan performance mag, they swapped some two peice rotors on a race spec v that the whole kit wiehged like 4 lbs or something, they list the manufacturer on there

Bah.. can't find anything

whats wrong with the stock rotors or get some blanks from a good manufacturer...

if you notice, most high quality brake setups dont use drilled or slotted rotors because they honestly can cause more problems and don't really do a whole lot. Drilled can slowly get stress cracks around the holes and then you could actually lose pieces of the rotor while driving. Slotted can warp more easily than a standard solid rotor and they have a tendency to eat pads up quicker.

I'm curious to see what you think is high quality since there are a lot of parts out there for the sentra that are definitely anything but high quality or legit.

I like my stock brakes on my spec v...they provide more than enough to lock up my sport tires.

whats wrong with the stock rotors or get some blanks from a good manufacturer...

if you notice, most high quality brake setups dont use drilled or slotted rotors because they honestly can cause more problems and don't really do a whole lot. Drilled can slowly get stress cracks around the holes and then you could actually lose pieces of the rotor while driving. Slotted can warp more easily than a standard solid rotor and they have a tendency to eat pads up quicker.

I'm curious to see what you think is high quality since there are a lot of parts out there for the sentra that are definitely anything but high quality or legit.

I like my stock brakes on my spec v...they provide more than enough to lock up my sport tires.

I'm aware of that. I only notice a small ammount of performance gain. I originally needed to replace my brake rotors 2 years ago and I was dumb and got the cheap ebay drilled/slotted rotors because I didn't know anything about aftermarket parts. The look grew on me. I think it gives the car a really classy look, providing your rotors are in good shape. I get compliments all the time, even from people that don't know much about cars. I'll admit it, it's more of a cosmetic thing for me. I'm not getting the cross drilled on my next set, because they do crack big time. That's where I'm having my problem. I am however, going with slotted/ zinc plated. I'll send you a pic when I get them done if you want me to, even though it might be a month or two. I'll let you decide for yourself what you think.

As far as high quality goes, I like to stick with Nismo for the most part. If there is a part that I'm going to get for my car and I don't know anything about it, I will do a lot of research. I ask around the forums here, because the regulars I talk to seem to have good taste and a lot more knowledge than me. The rotors were my only bad purchase for my spec v and then I learned very quickly from then on out. I don't have a lot of mods done to my car, because I am the type of person that would rather have less mods that are effective and have quality then to just throw anything o my car that has a "guarantee of 20 added hp". Right now the only performance mod I have on my car is the Nismo r-tune CIA. Other than that, I have subtle cosmetics and audio, such as 35% all around window tint and a 12" kicker sub with a 600 watt kenwood amp and an Alpine head unit. I have sitting not 5 feet away from me a Nismo short shifter and a JWT balance shaft removal kit. I just don't feel like putting them in, in single digit temperatures, haha. I'm getting a large bonus from work tomorrow and I'm ordering new wheels(undecided), khumo Ecksta ASX tires, and either or both a hotshot header and/or Nismo S-tune coil overs. I would go for the Nismo header, but the hotshot puts out about the same HP gain with about the same quality for a couple hundred dollars extra. Aside from the shitty ebay rotors, which I'm going to replace with a product that I find worthy, I do my best to look for quality. I learned from my mistake.. a 92 geo storm with shitty exhaust, a cheap header, and an ebay chip that put 5 extra HP out of the promised 20 and set my idle permantently at 2k. lol. Everyone has to start somehow :)

just put some power slots all the way around with some mild pads

the #1 thing you can do for brakes over stock is replace the pads with better ones. beyond that, get stainless lines, better brake fluid, and get some brembo or nissan OE blanks. calipers/pads/rotors should be upgraded with regard for each other. keep them all in balance for the most effective brakes.

oh i completely forgot about stainless lines, do your clutch and brake lines in stainless and feel the difference!

I'm just going to go with the powerslots. I mainly like the look. I might go stainless brake lines eventually, but I don't feel like bleeding the lines.

its really easy if you get about 4-5 feet of surgical tubing and you can bleed the fluid while you sit in the seat by attaching the bleeder screws to a coke bottle and sit it in your lap, then when you see no bubbles get out and tighten your screws and youre set, just get a lot of brake fluid so you dont run out

Gonna have to throw something in here on this. Now i hear alot about the dif in the slotted, drilled or both. I myself dont have either, but going to get some cause i need rotors naturally. I'm thinking drilled cause it still allows easy dispersion of head to cool the brakes. I've heard bad things against the slotted as they can eat your pads a bit faster. Theory behind these are legitimate and sound, but i need actual. Throw some gas on this fire for me, or clear up the myth? Which should i get. To be honest i engine brake alot, and i give it at about 150k i'll be getting the new tranny. Hit me up with some insight fellas, as i don't want blank rotors.

go with slotted and DIMPLED, it isnt a full hole on the drill so it wont crack your rotors, if youre worried about pad life id just keep your stockers and go with a high quality pad

I haven't really seen dimpled rotors. I'd ideally like to help with pad life i guess, cause to me, i see the stock brakes as adequate braking power for me. Do you know a supplier that has a decent price and product online here? Also what would you consider to be these quality breakpads. What are they made of, and a good site to get would be good. I don't need the best, but am on a budget. Can ya help me out here nismo?

Gonna have to throw something in here on this. Now i hear alot about the dif in the slotted, drilled or both. I myself dont have either, but going to get some cause i need rotors naturally. I'm thinking drilled cause it still allows easy dispersion of head to cool the brakes. I've heard bad things against the slotted as they can eat your pads a bit faster. Theory behind these are legitimate and sound, but i need actual. Throw some gas on this fire for me, or clear up the myth? Which should i get. To be honest i engine brake alot, and i give it at about 150k i'll be getting the new tranny. Hit me up with some insight fellas, as i don't want blank rotors.

I don't think I have heard anyone say anything good about drilled rotors. They have a massive tendancy to crack. If I were you, I would go slotted only. The drill spots on my current rotors are starting to crack a bit.

hawk makes some good pads for the spec v, hp autoworks.com sells them i think, green stuff makes pads too but they are noisy, they stop your ass though

Any of you guys have any sites on some price efficient examples?

heres the scoop on drilled rotors.

at the shop i work at, we service some state trooper squad cars. one comes in that has drilled rotors. i asked the cop about it, and she said she put em on because she warps stock rotors within 500 miles. i then asked how long she had the drilled ones on, and she said she had this set put on 1500 miles ago...i looked and there were already severe cracks starting to form all around the rotor. but they werent warped at all. for a sentra with less than 250whp, the only reason you would even need anything better than stock rotors is if you actually track raced it. even then, i would only get slotted rotors at the MOST. rotor size is MUCH MUCH MUCH more crucial than whether it has slots or dimples or holes or orifices or w/e. i said it before and ill keep saying it until people listen: pads, SS lines, and high temp fluid is all you need to stop fast. if you have that setup, only upgrade to larger calipers and rotors if you still get fade, which you wont unless you have huge hp and race your car. on a track. not a dragstrip or street.

as a matter of fact, tires will help braking performance more than all the slots and holes in the world.

despite that, heres what you need:
stoptech SS lines, 79$ front, 79$ rear
ferodo DS2500 pads, 129$ front set
motul RBF600 fluid, 14.50$ bottle

matter of fact, stoptech sells a stage 1 upgrade kit for 340$ with all you need
https://www.stoptech.com/categories/3/stage1-120.jpgStage 1 Brake UpgradesStainless Steel Lines, High Performance Brake Fluid and Street Performance Pads Part NumberOptionsPriceOnHandQty 86.648.02220 (javascript:popUp('ProductDetails.asp?id=502&skuid=13331&catid=3'))STANDARD339.00

Thats pretty helpful, but i'm gonna say my rotors now are gone. Where should i get some replacements, other than the ream you in the rear dealer? I can stick with standard. I was iffy about slots or drilled, but divoted ones might not have too many cons. Thats fine with me. Know where to get a good deal on standard rotors?

i dont know where you are, but i would do some looking and try and source some OEM blanks made by brembo.

I'm in Ohio. Where might i look for such a thing? Are they fairly cheap?

id start looking for larger brake supply places that supply retail stores and repair shops. you can usually talk them into selling to anyone. i dont know ohio so i dont know any stores around you. usually the big cities have many stores with connections you can at least special order from.

otherwise, contact brembo and ask where the nearest dealer is located

Brembo North America
Original Equipment
27280 Haggerty Road, Suite C-20
Farmington Hills, MI 48331
Phone: (248) 489-9197

That will be my little monday job.

Thanks

I have seen too many people get hurt by negatively affecting their vehicles via modification and I feel braking is a VERY important system for this.

The reason for the creation of cross drilled rotors initially was to remove the "gasses" from the brake pads. HOWEVER, most of your modern brake pads (Axxis metal, AEM semi-ceramic) do NOT produce gasses when heating. This was on bad brake pads used in the 1950s and 1960s. Back then, asbestos was also used, and we dont use that either.

The other reason is so called heat dissapation. I don't have my old physics and thermo books with me, but the logic is that the holes in the rotor are suppose to allow the brake pad to cool. So...air gets into the rotor from the inside of the vents. If you have a back rotor which is solid, air gets into these holes how? If your stopped, you are leaving air inside these holes sandwiched between the pads, thus creating air with a rising temperature. Its increasing in pressure from the heat, which I guess you "could" call a gas that would affect braking. So the cross drilled rotors do not remove any gasses formed by brake pads (because there are none created anymore) but could possibly inhibit the creation of "hot spots".

Cross drilled rotors have LESS contact area because of the holes.
But if the rotor is cooler, its better, right? Well no, because these rotors are not cooler. THe heat is generated from the pad/rotor contact. What removes heat the most effectively? When stopped or moving, the pad transfers heat into the rotor because its made of cast iron. the rotor has a lot of surface area and even vanes in it. But the little holes allow air in this surface contact, and you can transfer more heat into a solid big *** chunk of cast iron more than you can into the air. Don't believe me? Touch some steam at 150 degrees, then touch a piece of hot metal which is at 150 degrees. Which burns your hand? the metal. So let the heat transfer into the metal, because since it has so much more surface area, dissapates better.

Safety!!
Cross drilled rotors can crack! I have seen them!!


Even racing teams will reccomend AGAINST cross drilled rotors:
http://www.livermoreperformanc....html


Companies that sell cross drilled rotors that are redrilled may not be structurally sound. I have actually seen pictures of rear Integra rotors that have had hairline cracks turn into the rotor actually breaking apart!

Do your homework. Even Porsche and Ferrari will admit that the cross drilled rotors they use are for looks. So if you are one of those people who thinks the little holes look cool, get a name brand drilled rotor like Ferrari does. The REASON Ferrari's 'holed' rotors are alright to use is because they are CAST with the holes in them, so they are not actually drilled into cast iron rotors. Cheap drilled rotors are not safe, and even the good ones are not necessary. Why do Ferrari do it? People THINK they want it, and it sells. If you don't believe me, go into the business world. You will learn that pretty soon, you can sell utter **** if people THINK its better.

Information I gathered from http://www.pdm-racing.com/prod....html
says:


"KVR Crossdrilled Rotors

Why should you upgrade to cross drilled rotors?

Simply stated, the function of any vehicles brake system is to stop the vehicle. This is accomplished by absorbing the kinetic energy stored in the moving vehicle, and converting it into heat. The friction caused by the brake pad rubbing on the rotor is the source of this heat. The more quickly and efficiently that heat can be absorbed and dissipated, the more quickly and efficiently the car will stop.

There are several contributing factors to this heat reduction. One of the most common sources of heat is from the gases produced by the bonding agents of the brake pad burning off. Under severe braking, this can actually produce a boundary layer of gas that pushes the pad away from the rotor, which can lead to excessive brake fade. The cross-drilled holes or slots in a rotor provide an escape path for these gasses (de-gassing or out-gassing are common terms), and allow the pad to stay in contact with the rotor. As well as de-gassing, cross drilling or slotting will provide better wet weather braking as water is swept through the holes, or down the slots.

A vented rotor can be viewed as an air fan. When in motion, the vents draw air from the center of the rotor outward. This air flow, over an increased internal surface area, effectively dissipates rotor heat. Cross drilling adds to this air flow, as well as providing additional rotor surface cooling. "

This company is just telling you that the rotors may be cooler, however they fail to mention that the holes really do create a more than substantial decrease in surface area, thus less braking, thus less heat created, thus the less heat CREATED will leave the rotors cooler, the holes barely do anything! Its the less braking lowering the temperature!

Slotted rotors-
Find me a company that uses stock slotted rotors. They remove brake dust, but if you study braking systems, you find that with modern cars, flat blank rotors and semi-ceramic pads, the brake dust causing the rotor to slip on it is almost non-existent. But the brake dust doesnt need all those lines. Notice how most front brake pads (and most back) have that line down the middle to give essentially two bite points. If OEM or racing companies found it to be a benefit, they would do it.

PROOF OF IT ALL:

Find me an F1 car as of now that uses cross drilled or slotted rotors. They all use full ceramic rotors and ceramic pads. Are they drilled or slotted? No.

If they helped the fastest cars in the world, wouldn't they use them? Its basic calculations that show the lack in surface area does not make up for the possible loss in temperarure. They use brake cooling air ducts insted.

BIG BRAKE KITS:
Some have asked if the big brake kits are worth it. This is sort of a relative question, but the simple answer is no. Regarding the big ones with drilled rotors, if you know that they are cast that way, at least they wont crack. I would still advise against them.

IN CONCLUSION:
Don't buy slotted or cross drilled rotors, blank are better, and stop better. Physics people, get me my formulas and help me out here.

If you must get rotors with designs on them, get the slotted ones by a good company, and DON'T get blank rotors redrilled with little holes all over them. IF you absolutly must have the rotors with holes cause you like em, get them from a company that casts the rotors like that. I have seen rotors break and this is for your safety!

REMEMBER......
Like what has been mentioned above, your car will only stop as fast as your tires will allow. All the braking in the world wont work if your tires are bald and on ice!!

drilled/slotted rotors were created to address durability(warping) issues, not stopping distances. they do their intended job just fine. the only thing is somewhere along the line, a riceboi said to another riceboi that they help stopping distances, and a false myth was born

I WANT SLOTTED ROTORS FOR COSMETIC PURPOSES!!!!!!
Stop the freaking controversy... it's worthless and it's a waste of time.

Someone please close this damn thread, as well, as I can see the Spec V vs. SRT4 thread all over again. God...