ABS light on

2000 jimmy/blazer abs light will come on when driving about 100 feet or so and remain on till truck is turned off then process repeats. is there any way to retrieve the codes from the abs ?, has anyone seen this ?

Thanks

The ABS system performs a self test on each start up. The final step in the self test, checks speed sensors for output when the vehicle starts moving, and then constantly monitors them while driving. You probably have a speed sensor or speed sensor circuit malfunction. Any time the ABS light is on, only the ABS portion of the brakes is inoperative. A body capable scan tool must be used to retrieve the DTC's, (Diagnostic Trouble Codes).

So is there any other way to retrieve DTC's? Because I really don't want to pay a dealer $35 to plug in their scan tool.

...A body capable scan tool must be used to retrieve the DTC's, (Diagnostic Trouble Codes)...

Unfortunately that's the only way to retrieve the DTC's. Advance Auto and Auto Zone only scan "P" codes, not ABS. The GM dealer has to buy the Tech 2 scan tool in upwards of $3500.00, so $35.00 is cheap rent for that tool, the option is buying a body capable scan tool of your own.

I have a '96 blazer so this is assuming the systems are similar, I pulled the front tires off and found both sensor wires rubbing the inside of my wheel rims and were bare. I cut, spliced and seal the wire and repositioned the clamps so that they would not rub anymore. Hope this helps.

Both systems function similarly however, there are some differences. Your visual inspection found the bare wires and the repair you did is acceptable, provided you soldered the connections and installed shrink tube. Soldering provides a superior connection and the shrink tube keeps moisture out. Crimp connectors, sometimes referred to as "butt" connectors, should never be used on a vehicle, in any capacity.

Agreed old-master, I've been repairing wiring on everything from cars and boats to Lear jets and widebody aircraft for twenty years. My preferred splice is a hermetically sealed splice that comes with it's own shrink tube, but a little flux, good solder and shrink tubing are very good as well.

My ABS light came on one day even though they seemed to be working. I just learned to deal with it until I had to have the hub replaced and the mechanic showed me where the wiring that goes into the hub bearing was cracked. problem solved.