Will subs blow?

I have a Kicker kx 850.2 amp and I can get a dual sub enclosure with Pioneer TSW301R 12" subs real cheap. Are these subs any good? And will they blow with this amp. The amp is 425watts x 2 channels. The pioneers have an rms rating of 150 watts and peak of 800watts each.

What do you guys think? Would this setup work fine, or should I just buy new subs for this amp? Im not looking for professional sound, just some good thump to my ride without things blowing/braking.

It all depends on you, nothing else, so we can't answer your question

that amp will eat those subs man

I have a Kicker kx 850.2 amp and I can get a dual sub enclosure with Pioneer TSW301R 12" subs real cheap. Are these subs any good? And will they blow with this amp. The amp is 425watts x 2 channels. The pioneers have an rms rating of 150 watts and peak of 800watts each.

What do you guys think? Would this setup work fine, or should I just buy new subs for this amp? Im not looking for professional sound, just some good thump to my ride without things blowing/braking.
that amp will eat those subs man

^ OH god not another one.

IF you turn the amps power down it should be fine. Remember thats the max RMS power that they rate them at. Thanks to the potentiometer you can adjust the total power, also keep an eye on the gains. You can blow the subs just as easily by clipping the amp.

I have a Kicker kx 850.2 amp and I can get a dual sub enclosure with Pioneer TSW301R 12" subs real cheap. Are these subs any good? And will they blow with this amp. The amp is 425watts x 2 channels. The pioneers have an rms rating of 150 watts and peak of 800watts each.

What do you guys think? Would this setup work fine, or should I just buy new subs for this amp? Im not looking for professional sound, just some good thump to my ride without things blowing/braking.

It will be a quick stinky death for those subs if thats all they are rated at. Even with the gain set back you will be pushing WAY more power with the amp than the speakers can take. Good luck.

It will be a quick stinky death for those subs if thats all they are rated at. Even with the gain set back you will be pushing WAY more power with the amp than the speakers can take. Good luck.

the amp does not send the speaker any more power than you tell it to, no matter WHAT it's capable of. You could run a $1 tweeter on an amp capable of 10,000rms without an issue in the world, there's absolutely nothing wrong with it, as long as YOU don't push the speaker beyond its limits.

problem is, they are bassheads ....... when you clip the squat out of an amp to get max bass, you will often times destroy any speaker(s) attached to it.

Then what subs would you guys recommend? I am looking for dual subs, either 10 or 12" preferably under $300 total

I would go with kicker comp vr's. Thats just me.

^ OH god not another one.

LMAO!

GET BETTER SUBS!!!

What would be the point of having a big amp if your going to run some speakers that require you to turn the amp down all the way? In that case why not just go out and buy some little junk amp to go with the junk speakers.

Get some subs that will take some abuse, or you will end up having a system where you have to worry every minute its played what the gain is set at and all that other crap. A good set of subs that will do what they say will play well no matter what song is on the radio, or how you set the bass to it. Dont buy ANY speakers rated at less power than what the amp will provide to it. ESPECIALLY if the difference is several hundred RMS watts! If you do your looking at eventually blowing up the speakers and/or possibly causing serious damage to the amp.

yup u can only turn a amps power down between 1/3 ro1/4 depending on brand the outher way is wire the subs up to 4 or 8 ohm ...............................................??? pipmrolla112 what do u have 4 a system ?

Dont buy ANY speakers rated at less power than what the amp will provide to it. ESPECIALLY if the difference is several hundred RMS watts! If you do your looking at eventually blowing up the speakers and/or possibly causing serious damage to the amp.
You don't know what you're talking about

yup u can only turn a amps power down between 1/3 ro1/4 depending on brand the outher way is wire the subs up to 4 or 8 ohm
And neither do you

Do either of you have any IDEA how little power an amp (any amp) puts out at normal listening volume? I'll give you a hint, it typically averages well under a watt, and when you turn it up you might approach 1-2 watts. It's only when you turn it WAY up that you start to use some power, and having a large amp is only an issue if you like to turn it WAY up and you completely ignore all warning signs that the sub is being pushed too far.

My sub will start bottoming out in its current enclosure at low frequencies at around 800rms and it's on a 1500rms amp
My mids are rated at 100rms and will start bottoming out a little below that with their current HP and they're on a ~300x2 rms amp
My tweets are rated at 50rms and will be physically damaged with much less than that with their current HP and they're on a 100x2 rms amp
My home towers are rated at 100rms and are being run full range, and they're on a ~400x2 rms amp


None of which have ever blown and it's been set up this way for a few years.

Lets see my current setup contains a 15" ascendant audio atlas in a 3.65 cuft box ported to 32 hz. A profile ca400m, a set of mbquart 6x9's, and a set of 4x6 pioneers. And an alpine HU. Now so far i have spent 90 on the 6x9's 150 for the 15", and 50 on the amp, I had the HU and the speakers where in my old truck.

What i have sitting in my room for install, 100sqft of second skin audio damplifier, 1/0 stinger wiring kit, 6.5" re re comps, 2-autotek amps 1 for the speakers and 1 for the subs, another 15" AA atlas. And im researching my next HU.

Now to remind you of something else. MY old setups was the same amp, speakers and HU. BUt i had 2 polk EXII 12"s paid 50 for both, a while back i hit 138db on a tl mic at a car show. SO for $100 for the amp and subs i was able to hit that, no remember these subs where also made back in 1996.

AS for the amp having the ability to push more power than the subs can handle. YOu can run more power to a speaker/sub than its rated for depending on application and what the system is being used for. SPL guys will put 50%-100% more power to a sub for the 5-6sec burp to hit a higher rating. While some sub companys list there subs with a thermal rms and mechanical, or an rms range. The sub will take what power the amp pushes. The sub doesnt magically have a power source unless an amp is hooked up. Thats why the phrase" how much power will my subs push if i use this amp", makes me laugh everytime.

Ok, well I can get 2 of these on ebay for around $160. Theyre the ones you recommended.

http://www.circuitcity.com/ssm/Kicker-12-Subwoofer-CVR12/sem/rpsm/oid/117481/catOid/-13093/rpem/ccd/productDetail.do

How would I have to wire them to match the correct ohms with my amp?

Whats your budget? What do you listen to? What do you drive?

YOu can get a single 15 to hit harder than 2-12"s depending on the model, amp etc.

You might spend an extra 40-50 but depending on what you need.

You don't know what you're talking about

Okay look man, its a bad idea to tell people you can hook a 10,000 watt amp up to a speaker that costs a dollar. You want to know what it looks like to NOT know what your talking about? Look in the mirror, because thats BS.

Go ahead and act like you know everything and i and others know nothing. As you are telling people " its okay go get a huge amp and hook some BS to it" they will blow their speakers and possibly destroy their amp. THEN who will look like they dont know what they are talking about.

SO what your saying is i can go out and get some 15 watt max speakers and hook it up to my amp and "everything will be just fine"...Are you serious? What would that sound like anyways? SNAP CRACKLE POP MAYBE!!! Shit im done with this thread.

EVERYBODY go out and get some speakers that are WAY under rated compared to your amp. Cause its okay, its obviously the smart thing to do right? If you run 1,000 watts go out and buy some little 50 watt jensen dash speakers and mount them into a tiny little enclosure because normally the only thing your amp is doing is pushing a single watt anyways RIGHT?

Okay look man, its a bad idea to tell people you can hook a 10,000 watt amp up to a speaker that costs a dollar. You want to know what it looks like to NOT know what your talking about? Look in the mirror, because thats BS.

Go ahead and act like you know everything and i and others know nothing. As you are telling people " its okay go get a huge amp and hook some BS to it" they will blow their speakers and possibly destroy their amp. THEN who will look like they dont know what they are talking about.

SO what your saying is i can go out and get some 15 watt max speakers and hook it up to my amp and "everything will be just fine"...Are you serious? What would that sound like anyways? SNAP CRACKLE POP MAYBE!!! Shit im done with this thread.

EVERYBODY go out and get some speakers that are WAY under rated compared to your amp. Cause its okay, its obviously the smart thing to do right? If you run 1,000 watts go out and buy some little 50 watt jensen dash speakers and mount them into a tiny little enclosure because normally the only thing your amp is doing is pushing a single watt anyways RIGHT?

As long as you listen to the speaker and don't ignore the warning signs that it's being pushed too far, yes it will be fine. If you don't pay attention, then you will quite possibly kill your speaker, no matter what the amp powering it is capable of (within reason), including amps that are rated less than the speaker, even amps that aren't underrated.

The only exception is the rare case where the speaker will thermal before distorting mechanically, due to an abnormally undersized box or high cutoff frequency on the highpass filter. In that case the only way to prevent damage is to use common sense, or have an acute sense of smell ;)

I'm not saying it's a good idea to hook a 10kW amp to a 10w speaker, it would be a waste of money because you would never use the amp's full ability, but if you pay attention to distortion you wouldn't blow the speaker any faster than with a 100w amp, or even a 10w amp. An amp won't put out any more power than you ask it to.

Hotrod chevy your barking up the wrong tree. Ive been in the car audio section long enough, i know sr20 knows what he is talking about. THe same with pauld and a few others, i dont claim to be an expert and i usually dont talk shit unless i know what im talking about.

Okay look man, its a bad idea to tell people you can hook a 10,000 watt amp up to a speaker that costs a dollar. You want to know what it looks like to NOT know what your talking about? Look in the mirror, because thats BS.

Go ahead and act like you know everything and i and others know nothing. As you are telling people " its okay go get a huge amp and hook some BS to it" they will blow their speakers and possibly destroy their amp. THEN who will look like they dont know what they are talking about.

SO what your saying is i can go out and get some 15 watt max speakers and hook it up to my amp and "everything will be just fine"...Are you serious? What would that sound like anyways? SNAP CRACKLE POP MAYBE!!! Shit im done with this thread.

EVERYBODY go out and get some speakers that are WAY under rated compared to your amp. Cause its okay, its obviously the smart thing to do right? If you run 1,000 watts go out and buy some little 50 watt jensen dash speakers and mount them into a tiny little enclosure because normally the only thing your amp is doing is pushing a single watt anyways RIGHT?


Think about it this way

Most headunits adjust the volume in 2dB increments, that means every 3 volume notches you move up/down you adjust the power going to your speaker by a factor of 4, every 5 volume notches you move up/down you adjust the power going to your speaker by a factor of 10, and every 10 volume notches you move up/down you adjust the power going to your speaker by a factor of 100.

So now take 2 setups, identical in every way except that one setup , say setup A, has a 100x1 sub amp and the other, setup B, has a 1000x1 sub amp. Both are set up to clip at the same volume, say 30. With the volume at 30 on setup A, it will put out 100w peak. With the volume at 25 on setup B, it will put out 100w peak. At any volume level on setup A, setup B will sound and behave identically at a volume 5 notches lower. That means that unless you were to go above 25 on setup B, the speaker would never see more than 100w, even though the amp is capable of 1000w.

like I always say, power handling is a function listening habits and musical style preferences. The crest factor of a CD can easily be 30 dB .... a power factor of 1000. That means if you are playing at a level that requires 1 watt RMS, you will need up 1000 watts peak for the amp to play the peaks with no clipping. These level are not dangerous even for mids or tweets because the peaks are so low in duration, so the average power is within the abilitities of the speaker to handle.

You don't know what you're talking about


And neither do you



:iamwithst

Newbster, get a 15" one of these and be done with it.
http://www.tcsounds.com/tc2000.htm

Heres my whole entire point. If i have a 500W RMS capable amp i want it all to be put to use and less than that is a waste of power, money and time. Thats not the my only reason for saying pick some speakers rated OVER what the amp puts out.


I have like 5 people who like to listen to my stereo and they go through the settings pushing the bass up and down, hitting the loud button off and on ect. And i dont mind thats cool cause thats what its there for. Anyways sometimes the stereo gets rocked without me in the car. My kicker 15's ended up blown without me even being in the car. My old lady came in the house a few months back and said "dont be mad, somethings wrong with the stereo"... goodbye kicker 15's. the problem was was simple. I got in the car looked at the settings, the bass was on +6 on a sony xplode HU and the bass had three settings, it was on the third.

My stereo isnt going to live its entire life on a single setting. Not many systems do. A lot of people like to go through and mess with how it sounds. This is enough of a reason for me to purchase speakers than can take what the amp is giving them under any condition.

yea but less say that someone came in and stole your subwoofers and some how stole your speakers but they left the amps but you could not afford to get new speakers that matched the amp. what would you do not listen to your stearo or make the speakers work.

Heres my whole entire point. If i have a 500W RMS capable amp i want it all to be put to use and less than that is a waste of power, money and time. Thats not the my only reason for saying pick some speakers rated OVER what the amp puts out.


I have like 5 people who like to listen to my stereo and they go through the settings pushing the bass up and down, hitting the loud button off and on ect. And i dont mind thats cool cause thats what its there for. Anyways sometimes the stereo gets rocked without me in the car. My kicker 15's ended up blown without me even being in the car. My old lady came in the house a few months back and said "dont be mad, somethings wrong with the stereo"... goodbye kicker 15's. the problem was was simple. I got in the car looked at the settings, the bass was on +6 on a sony xplode HU and the bass had three settings, it was on the third.

My stereo isnt going to live its entire life on a single setting. Not many systems do. A lot of people like to go through and mess with how it sounds. This is enough of a reason for me to purchase speakers than can take what the amp is giving them under any condition.

And if you buy an amp that doesn't have the ability to push the speaker to its limits, you're wasting the potential of your speaker. You're always going to be wasting the potential of something. I would rather it be the amp because I hate to worry about clipping, if you buy an amp that's too small you're always going to be running into clipping. Besides, an amp driven into full clip has the ability to blow a speaker rated at TWICE the power (yes, that means a 100rms amp in full clip can put out up to 200rms, and potentially thermal a 200rms sub). Are you saying that you're always going to buy a monster sub and a tiny amp that's rated at less than half the sub's power because you're afraid of someone messing with the settings and blowing it? If that's not what you're saying, then your point is moot, because that's what's necessary to prevent damage to the sub under all circumstances. Actually, that only takes care of thermal damage, you can still blow a sub with even less power than that mechanically. If you have a problem with people jumping in your car, abusing the system, and blowing your equipment, then that's a problem with those people, not the system.

i'd never let someone mess with my system without me in the car.

I wont let them do it with me in the car. Hell i get pissed if they change the song or the station im listening to.

Are you saying that you're always going to buy a monster sub and a tiny amp that's rated at less than half the sub's power because you're afraid of someone messing with the settings and blowing it? If that's not what you're saying, then your point is moot, because that's what's necessary to prevent damage to the sub under all circumstances.

I didnt put it that way exactly... I simply prefer to purchase subs that are rated higher than what i need, because more often than not they are not capable of what they are advertised as being capable of.

If you have a problem with people jumping in your car, abusing the system, and blowing your equipment, then that's a problem with those people, not the system.

I dont mind other people in the car playing the radio and stuff. Thats why i call it the cab. Cause thats what it is. Its the whore of all radios man, everybody gets a turn. Most people who get in it bring a CD to listen to. Sometimes thats a bad thing :shakehead

If a person comes to me and asks me what would be the best speaker for an amp i figure out what power the amp is, and find a speaker rated at least 100 rms past what the amp is making.

Having too small of subs is like having a 572 crate motor hooked to a regular 10 bolt axle. Yah you can keep your foot off the gas, but its gonna blow...

EDIT: and yeah, i suppose having a small amp and huge subs would be like having a geo metro engine hooked to a 70SS chevelle axle. But at least you wouldnt have to worry much about that axle.

Yes i think we understand where your coming from, but you dont understand what we are trying to say. Engines, and drivetrains are completley different from car audio and subs. You can blow a sub very easily with and amp thats rated at half the subs RMS if the gains and EQ arent set properly. THats why we keep talking about clipping. With the amp having a higher power rating than the subs RMS you can adjust to your listening specifics, and not have to ever worry about clipping the amp. Think of it as a restrictor plate to keep the power down.

And yes alot of the mainstream subs on the market are rated at more than they can handle. But if you look at most of the audiophile subs they have a REC power and an RMS power, a power range, and some have power rating cause it is completely dependant on application and use of the sub. Look at the RE MT ive heard of people putting close to 5k watts for SPL burps and ive heard of 2500rms for daily listening, the subs has no RMS rating becuse it is dependant on application.

What it pretty much sums up to is that the sub wont take a crap unless you make it. If you can keep your foot of the pedal (ie keep the gains under control) you can put an amp on a speaker or subs that has 2-3 times the rated power of that speaker with no issues. But if your like most bass heads then you can keep that level down and you will destroy equipment.

If a person comes to me and asks me what would be the best speaker for an amp i figure out what power the amp is, and find a speaker rated at least 100 rms past what the amp is making.

But that amp will still be able to blow the sub, even if the sub can really handle its rated power, that's my point. You would have to get an amp rated less than 1/3 (maybe even lower) of the sub's rated power in order to guarantee you won't blow it. OR, you could get an amp that will actually let you bring your sub to its full potential and just use some self-control.


You're looking at this from a different direction than we are. You're assuming an amp is already selected and you're buying a speaker to go along with it. That is the wrong way to build a system IMO, there are a LOT more amps out there that will meet your requirements than there are subs. Some people literally only have 5-6 subs that will meet their goals, out of every sub on the market. You pick the sub that meets your space, frequency response, output, and box requirements, and then you pick an amp that will be able to bring that sub to its full potential without clipping. Then you just use some self-control and listen for distortion, and the sub will be happy as a bird.

If you want to go to a car analogy, think of the sub and its power limitations as the speed limit, and think of the amp as your car/engine. If the speed limit is 80 you could get away with a Geo Metro, but you would be flooring it the entire time, sucking down gas, and potentially blowing the engine. On the other hand, you could get a ferrari and cruise at 80 without a problem. Sure it has the ability to go faster, but it won't go faster unless you make it, and if you keep your eye on the speed limit you'll never break it (unless you intentionally break it, but that would be like hearing the distortion from your sub and continuing to turn up the volume to intentially blow it).

But that amp will still be able to blow the sub, even if the sub can really handle its rated power, that's my point. You would have to get an amp rated less than 1/3 (maybe even lower) of the sub's rated power in order to guarantee you won't blow it. OR, you could get an amp that will actually let you bring your sub to its full potential and just use some self-control.

does that mean in thoery i can't blow my alpine type r (500rms 1500 maxs) from clipping if i powered matched it.

My amp is rated at these ratings:

425 Watt - 2 Ohm - 14.4V DC - 2 channel(s) ¦ 850 Watt - 4 Ohm - 14.4V DC - 1 channel(s) ¦ 295 Watt - 4 Ohm - 14.4V DC - 2 channel(s)

So does this mean if i wanted to run both channels for 425watts each would i need 2 ohms per channel, or 2 ohms combined for both channels?

both channels need a 2 ohm load to get the 425X2

does that mean in thoery i can't blow my alpine type r (500rms 1500 maxs) from clipping if i powered matched it.


Never look at peak, only rms
If you matched the power, and sent the amp into full clip, your 500rms sub would be receiving up to 1000rms, and it would blow quite quickly.

You can meet and exceed the limits of the type-r with 2-300rms depending on the box pretty easily, you could blow it mechanically with less than half of its rated power if you abused it. It's the same way with most subs out there, there is no way to put a true power rating on a speaker, because the amount of power it can take is completely dependant on everything else (box (that's a HUGE part), frequency, music, etc). The only way to prevent damage to your speakers no matter what amp you're using is to listen to them and turn it down if you hear distortion.

If you want to go to a car analogy, think of the sub and its power limitations as the speed limit, and think of the amp as your car/engine. If the speed limit is 80 you could get away with a Geo Metro, but you would be flooring it the entire time, sucking down gas, and potentially blowing the engine. On the other hand, you could get a ferrari and cruise at 80 without a problem. Sure it has the ability to go faster, but it won't go faster unless you make it, and if you keep your eye on the speed limit you'll never break it (unless you intentionally break it, but that would be like hearing the distortion from your sub and continuing to turn up the volume to intentially blow it).


That was the most beautiful analogy i have ever heard.

i got 2 12" kicker cvrs and a 2000 watt mono amp should i turn my hpf (high pass filter) on or off?

OFF. High pass would put all the higher range frequencies to the sub, low pass puts the low range frequencies. While Off is no filter.

What amp cause if its true power then those subs will melt like butter.

How many true 2000rms amplifiers have you seen with a highpass filter?

How many true 2000rms amplifiers have you seen with a highpass filter?


:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

LOL true, sorry its late. But yeah i dont think i have ever seen a mono amp with a highpass.