Torque How 2 Question...
gen1rx7fan
09-30-2002, 02:10 PM
Hi all...
I just replaced the front and rear bushings in my 1985 RX-7 GSL-SE (sway bar, tension rod, etc, etc)..now comes the time to torque it all down to spec.
For the nuts / bolts on which I can use a socket, I have a socket based torque wrench and I am fine.
However, the tension rod is a much larger bolt and nut and it needs to be torqued using an open end wrench somehow.
Make sense?
Does anyone have any advice on how to do this?
Thanks, in advance, for the advice!
Steve
I just replaced the front and rear bushings in my 1985 RX-7 GSL-SE (sway bar, tension rod, etc, etc)..now comes the time to torque it all down to spec.
For the nuts / bolts on which I can use a socket, I have a socket based torque wrench and I am fine.
However, the tension rod is a much larger bolt and nut and it needs to be torqued using an open end wrench somehow.
Make sense?
Does anyone have any advice on how to do this?
Thanks, in advance, for the advice!
Steve
CraigFL
10-01-2002, 08:12 AM
If you can't find a socket that will work, you will need what's called a "crow foot wrench". This is a shorty open end wrench with a square drive hole for a socket drive set. Since this will slightly lengthen your torque arm length, you will need to adjust you indicated torque accordingly.
Moppie
10-01-2002, 08:36 AM
I have to say in the 7 odd years I have been working on road and race cars casualy and proffesionaly I dont think I have ever used a torque wrench on a suspension part. ever.
I just do them uo tight enough that they won't come undone, and I have never had a problem.
Infact most bolts on a car only need to be done up tight by hand, and torque specs are useualy only given for things like Cylinder heads, gear box caseings, or anything large that is bolted to aluminuim, or requires an even pressure on all the securing bolts to ensure a tight oil seal, or prevent warpage when in use.
Generaly things like suspension bolts do not come under any of the above. And should simply be done up real tight.
Some shop books may show recomended torque figures, but you will notice that they are on the high side, and are reall only there to ensure that weak armed ppl do all the nuts and bolts up tight enough, and useing Air Guns don't over tighten and break something.
I just do them uo tight enough that they won't come undone, and I have never had a problem.
Infact most bolts on a car only need to be done up tight by hand, and torque specs are useualy only given for things like Cylinder heads, gear box caseings, or anything large that is bolted to aluminuim, or requires an even pressure on all the securing bolts to ensure a tight oil seal, or prevent warpage when in use.
Generaly things like suspension bolts do not come under any of the above. And should simply be done up real tight.
Some shop books may show recomended torque figures, but you will notice that they are on the high side, and are reall only there to ensure that weak armed ppl do all the nuts and bolts up tight enough, and useing Air Guns don't over tighten and break something.
gen1rx7fan
10-01-2002, 08:51 AM
Moppie - thanks for the best piece of practical advice I have received yet...
That will definately make the job easier than trying to torque the bar to 80-100 ft/pnds...
Thanks...
That will definately make the job easier than trying to torque the bar to 80-100 ft/pnds...
Thanks...
Moppie
10-01-2002, 09:27 AM
Originally posted by gen1rx7fan
Thanks...
No worries!
Just one more bit of advice I thought of. How tight to tighten something is really something you learn with practice. But its something you learn the hard way, i.e. things come undone when you dont do them up tight enough, and smaller nuts and bolts break when you over tighten them. :(
With something like a suspension bolt its hard to over tighten it, but it is possible. Its possible to over tighten some mount types so the suspension arms becomes to tight, while others are subject to vibrations etc that mean you can never over tighten them.
I recomend not leaning to hard on them, but dont be a wuss either (theres some good well defined advice) but more importantly in say a week get under the car and check every single nut and bolt again.
Then if you didnt tighten any enough you now know you need to do them a little tighter this time.
Also make sure you get all the right washers etc back on, and replace any crushed or misshappen ones. And of course don't forget you will need a wheel alignment ASAP after having everything apart.
Thanks...
No worries!
Just one more bit of advice I thought of. How tight to tighten something is really something you learn with practice. But its something you learn the hard way, i.e. things come undone when you dont do them up tight enough, and smaller nuts and bolts break when you over tighten them. :(
With something like a suspension bolt its hard to over tighten it, but it is possible. Its possible to over tighten some mount types so the suspension arms becomes to tight, while others are subject to vibrations etc that mean you can never over tighten them.
I recomend not leaning to hard on them, but dont be a wuss either (theres some good well defined advice) but more importantly in say a week get under the car and check every single nut and bolt again.
Then if you didnt tighten any enough you now know you need to do them a little tighter this time.
Also make sure you get all the right washers etc back on, and replace any crushed or misshappen ones. And of course don't forget you will need a wheel alignment ASAP after having everything apart.
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