Turns over, Won't start, Fuel pump???

Well my 99 blazer 290,000Km, wouldn't start this morning. Temperature was minus 21 C and it was just not even firing at all. It would turn over but nothing to suggest that it was even close to running.

I did notice that the usual whine from the fuel pump when I first turn the key was missing. My bet is that the engine is starved of fuel and the fuel pump is shot. Not surprizing as it is original equipment and considering the mileage things wear out. I do not have any warning lights on the dash, everything is normal. The security light does go out and does NOT flash so the proper key is recognized by the ignition switch.

Just prior to turning the car off for the last time prior to this problem there were no symptoms. Engine was running perfectly.

I checked the main fuses including the PCM-B fuse (20A) which I believe is the one that feeds the fuel pump. I also checked for any error codes and there are none.

A week ago I had a lot of hesitation and drastically reduced speed capability which was rectified by replacing the fuel filter (also original equipment). The car ran perfectly since then until now. Its been towed and is in the shop for repair. I'll let you all know on the outcome ... still my bet is on the fuel pump.

Fuel pump or maybe water in the gas, at that temp it would cause issues. Good luck

I'm betting on yet another clogged fuel filter. You may have some bad stuff in with your gas....Do you have any enemies?

Well my 99 blazer 290,000Km, wouldn't start this morning. Temperature was minus 21 C and it was just not even firing at all. It would turn over but nothing to suggest that it was even close to running.

I did notice that the usual whine from the fuel pump when I first turn the key was missing. My bet is that the engine is starved of fuel and the fuel pump is shot. Not surprizing as it is original equipment and considering the mileage things wear out. I do not have any warning lights on the dash, everything is normal. The security light does go out and does NOT flash so the proper key is recognized by the ignition switch.

Just prior to turning the car off for the last time prior to this problem there were no symptoms. Engine was running perfectly.

I checked the main fuses including the PCM-B fuse (20A) which I believe is the one that feeds the fuel pump. I also checked for any error codes and there are none.

A week ago I had a lot of hesitation and drastically reduced speed capability which was rectified by replacing the fuel filter (also original equipment). The car ran perfectly since then until now. Its been towed and is in the shop for repair. I'll let you all know on the outcome ... still my bet is on the fuel pump.


If fuel pump does not run.
Go to fuel pump relay and check for 12 volt power from ECMB 20 amp fuse on orange wire.
Then check gray wire to fuel pump for 12 volts key on engine 30 second prime.
Also jumper the fuel pump prime connector with a 12 bolt fused jumper.
If fuel pump does not run jumped move on back to fuel pump plug in and fuel pump.
Some time a good whack on the bottom of fuel tank will wake up a stuck fuel pump.
But if that is the case it is time for a new fuel pump.

290 on an original pump - you did very good. This sounds like the pump has had better days. Just to make sure, MT's advice on how to check should be followed before finally concluding the pump.

My bet is its the pump.

Thanks for the help ... I will perform the steps outlined. That should eliminate any notion of "upstream" electrical issues. Lets prove that the pump is getting the proper voltage first

I did already try the banging on the fuel tank routine, without success before I called for a tow. Here's the current status ...

Guess what? Things are working again but the weather is a bit warmer.
The dealer said the car started with no problems but I'm real weary of another problem soon down the road. Usually the cold snaps end by mid feb and we won't see the "really" cold for another 10 months or so. Sunday is supposed to be another minus 30 temperature day, hopefully the last. For those that are looking for a (C vs F) comparison, at minus 30 ... does it matter?

I'm also wondering if the wiring harness is in good repair. I'll try to get some kind of a look at this. I may need to gerry-rig a web cam/pen light to have a look if its in a really obscure place.

Dealer quoted a horendous amount for a fuel pump replacement $1200.00 installed. Apparently the pump itself is about 800-900 bucks. Does anyone have a better handle on a price, this seems like way too much ... I won't pay it.

Side Comments: For those suggesting another clogged fuel filter ... I tend to not jump to conclusions on what might be a problem, but to pay careful attention to symptoms. I agree that this could account for fuel startvation especially incold weather, but the fact that the fuel pump which has a distinct whine when the ignition is moved to on and priming, is very quiet, I think tells a different tale .... pump or wiring. The fact that it is intermittent (now) might indicate some moisture inside the pump maybe that froze or wear and tear, harness or corosion somewhere on a conection.

Also, a clogged filter, usually would have to be pretty wacked to compleatly block all the fuel. The symptom would likely be that the car might start, or misfire when starting or limited acceleration with bogging down under load.
My symptom was the engine turned over and no hint of any combustion.

Find my post in here on "Cold, no start" or something like that. I would get out the voltmeter and check for 12v on that pink wire going to the ignition module. Good Luck

Lynn

Let me suggest having the battery checked with a load type tester. AutoZone, etc, will do it for free. I had this same type problem with my ’95. It would crank over great, but not start or even act like it wanted to start. I found the battery was failing and was not up to full charge. If the battery is weak, which often shows up in clod weather, the starter draws all the current and there’s not enough current left over for the fuel pump to reach max pressure of 61 psi which is required for a cold start.

If the battery checks out ok, I would then disconnect the fuel pump wire connector at the gas tank, and check for current on the 12v feed wire in the wire connector at the gas tank that goes to the fuel pump. (On my 95 the 12v feed wire going to the tank is gray and the ground is black) Test the current with a voltmeter, while using the ground wire in the connector for a ground. It should read from 12 to 13.5v or something a little more than 12v.

If you don’t have at least 12v on the Gray wire try using a different ground. If you have 12v, make sure the wire connector at the gas tank is making a good connection to the fuel pump wire connector. These connectors are known to go bad on the 2000 year.

If you have 12v+ and the pump still doesn't put out 61+ PSI, the pump is toast and needs replaced. (Make sure the battery has 12V+ when doing this test)

Keep in mind the fuel pump only runs for 2-seconds when you turn the key on - engine off. Then the key must be off for 10-seconds before the pump will run for another 2-seconds.

Try here for the pump. I bought one for my Blazer and it was half of what the dealer wanted. They're high quality Delphi pumps too ...

If you have a 4 door, I think your fuel pump module is the same one as mine on the 2000 Blazer but be sure to verify that. It cost $244 plus $20 for shipping

http://store.getgmparts.com/fg0052.html

http://store.getgmparts.com/fuel-pumps.html

1-866-851-0549

Before you spend all the money on a fuel pump try replacing the 13.00 wiring harness on the vehicle side. In areas that has salt corrosion or any other contaminate they would start to short out, then over time melt the end of the harness. I bought a pump that i didn't need for mine and it was just the harness. You may have another issue but I'm always willing to spend 13 before 250. I posted a message here a while ago with the NAPA part number for that kit.

Well its time to put this one to rest.

I considered all your comments but its a little hard to take action when its so cold outside. The battery is in great shape. I'm used to the cold weather and rely on the battery a lot. Any sign of weakness and I invoke the warranty for a replacement. Some things are a must have when you live both in the cold and in the countryside.

After the car got towed to the dealer it started right away ... go figure.
I tried banging on the tank before the tow and no luck.
I had them do a pressure test on the cooling system to look after what might have been another problem as I was down on coolant. this turned out to be a bad rad cap.

So I went the restof the winter with no problems ... -40 cold weather for about 2 weeks as well and no problems ... Until 2 days ago. the weather was really mild about 5 celcius (40 F) for you folks south of the border. And again wouldn't start.

We tried repeated banging on the tank with a ruber mallet prior to giving up.
Luckily it was 100 feet from a trusted Garage and I got the boys to push it in. They checked the fuel pump and that was it. Replaced and now I even feel a big difference when starting. It fires before I even get the key twisted all the way. It was never hard to start but the difference is noticable.

I also tried swapping the fuel pump relay with another one in the relay box, you can hear it connecting and a slight gurgling sound near the fuel line injector connection but that was it.

The PUMP was pricey a bit more than you guys pay in the US about 480 canadian pus a good 3 hours labour at about 100 an hour. I got good usage out of Pump number 1 as it lasted for 290,000 kms. Now I'm on to ball joints as the front end is worn out and I need some new tires.