power window and power lock problem
luciani27
01-31-2007, 08:26 AM
hello. i'm new to this forum, due to a rather minor but annoying problem with my car.
as i was coming from work yesterday, i rolled down my driver side window, for a moment. when i pushed the button to roll it back up, it only came up halfway, then it stopped, and whatever i did, i couldn't get it back up. the problem is that not only my driver side window doesen'twork, but none of the windows in the car work, wether i use the button from the driver's door pannel, or the switch from each of the other doors respectively. another thing is that at the same time the lock/unlock doors switch stopped working as well. i checked the fuse but it seems to be ok.
another detail, that may or may not be significant, is that usually the switches for the windows and lock/unlock doors have a light, so you can see them in the dark. now they are still lit but very weakly, you can barely see that they are.
i hope someone can help me with a piece of advice, as it's been snowing for the last few days, and it's really, really cold.
thank you
as i was coming from work yesterday, i rolled down my driver side window, for a moment. when i pushed the button to roll it back up, it only came up halfway, then it stopped, and whatever i did, i couldn't get it back up. the problem is that not only my driver side window doesen'twork, but none of the windows in the car work, wether i use the button from the driver's door pannel, or the switch from each of the other doors respectively. another thing is that at the same time the lock/unlock doors switch stopped working as well. i checked the fuse but it seems to be ok.
another detail, that may or may not be significant, is that usually the switches for the windows and lock/unlock doors have a light, so you can see them in the dark. now they are still lit but very weakly, you can barely see that they are.
i hope someone can help me with a piece of advice, as it's been snowing for the last few days, and it's really, really cold.
thank you
DavidL
01-31-2007, 03:31 PM
When you say you checked the fuse, do you mean the one under the hood? My 99 Taurus has a 30 amp fuse in the box under the hood that is for the power windows, locks and seat. It's in the #4 position, which is the second from the left in the top row (closest to the engine).
luciani27
02-01-2007, 08:30 AM
yes, i checked that one too, but now i bought another one just in case my tester doesn'nt work properly. i also checked the wires that come to the switches, and i onlyget a voltage of 4 to 6, but not constantly, it just variates between 0 and these values.
shorod
02-01-2007, 10:33 AM
Welcome to the forum!
What year is your Taurus? From your profile, it appears you have a 1997 Taurus, but it would be helpful to post that info when starting a thread.
When you measured 4 to 6 Vdc at the switches, was that using a ground at the switch, or a common ground from the body of the car? If at the switch, you may have a bad ground for the door or the switch. A bad ground could easily effect the intensity of the LED switch lighting as well. If using a body ground or similar, then you may have severe corrosion on one of the feed wires to the switches, likely where the wires go through the door jamb. There is a cylindrical connector between the body of the car and the door. I've seen wires get damaged or corroded fairly often in this connector. Not fund to repair, but I imagine it's not fun to drive with a window part-way down either. :)
If you measure the voltage to the accessory delay relay in the instrument panel fuse/relay box, do you have battery voltage there or only the same 4-6 Vdc?
-Rod
What year is your Taurus? From your profile, it appears you have a 1997 Taurus, but it would be helpful to post that info when starting a thread.
When you measured 4 to 6 Vdc at the switches, was that using a ground at the switch, or a common ground from the body of the car? If at the switch, you may have a bad ground for the door or the switch. A bad ground could easily effect the intensity of the LED switch lighting as well. If using a body ground or similar, then you may have severe corrosion on one of the feed wires to the switches, likely where the wires go through the door jamb. There is a cylindrical connector between the body of the car and the door. I've seen wires get damaged or corroded fairly often in this connector. Not fund to repair, but I imagine it's not fun to drive with a window part-way down either. :)
If you measure the voltage to the accessory delay relay in the instrument panel fuse/relay box, do you have battery voltage there or only the same 4-6 Vdc?
-Rod
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