Spray Paint Interior

What do you think it would look like if i spray painted my interior excpet forl ike the seats and carpet. All the dash and the doors?

Like SHIT.

:D Read these two forums. You might find your answer here.

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?threadid=66937&referrerid=28892

And...

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?threadid=65733&referrerid=28892

:sun: Other than black color on dash, refelection on windshield will always be an issue!

don't spray your interior ...

now now,

dont be so fast to discourage spray painting the interior. so long as your very tedious and careful... the results can look pretty nice.

do not just go straight out and spray one coat of paint on the piece while its still in the car and leave it at that. that's when things start looking shitty. I did my pieces and they came out perfect... not just pretty good but perfect. as if the pices were made out of that color vinyl and plastic.
here's a pretty good method to getting it to look nice

-remove pice from car
-wash down with soapy water, dry off
-sand with 320 grit sand paper
-wash with soapy water to remove sanding particles and dry off
-sand with 320 grit then wash and dry again
-spray LIGHT LIGHT coat of primer, allow 20+ minutes to dry
-sand piece with 320 grit sand paper and wash and dry
-spray a second LIGHT LIGHT coat of primer allow 1 hour or more to dry
-spray LIGHT LIGHT coat of desired color allow to dry
-repeat at least 3 more times leaving 20 minutes to dry inbetween coats
-allow 1 hour or more to let last coat of paint dry
-spray 3 or more light coats of enamel
-allow 24 hours to dry
-place piece back in car

that method worked very well for me, the only thing is to be careful what u use to clean it with... there are a lot of solvents that can eat the paint up

Originally posted by Beyond Imagination
don't spray your interior ...

Why not?

Here's the method I used:

Materials/Tools required:
-- Primer.
-- Krylon Interior/Exterior paint
-- Clear Enamel
-- 320 grit sand-paper
-- Rubbing alcohol and Q-tips and/or cotton balls
-- Masking tape (also good to have masking tape with attached drop-cloth)
-- Various sockets/screw-drivers, etc. for removing pieces

A few words about technique/safety:
-- When spraying your primer, paint, or clear-coat, be sure to keep the tip of your finger out of the spray. Having your finger in the way will cause paint mist to build up on your fingertip, and the airflow will blow the built-up paint off your finger in the form of little droplets of paint. If these drops land on the piece you're working on, you might as well start over, cuz they look like crap. The same thing happens if you use a plastic pistol-grip attachment on your spray cans.
-- I can't say enough how important patience is. If you rush, you are going to make mistakes, and if you don't fix the mistakes (which is a huge hassle), you'll have a horrible looking interior. So it's best to just do it right the first time. Do whatever you can to avoid over-spraying the pieces. Personally, I smoked A LOT of cigarettes and drank A LOT of beer between applications, just to keep myself from using too much paint all at once.
-- I made the mistake of painting all my trim outside on my back deck. For some reason, bugs were really attracted to my paint and clear-coat, and kept landing on the pieces. They'd get stuck in the wet paint, and some of them are still visible in the finished pieces. If you have access to a well ventilated garage or paint-booth, I would highly recommend using it.
-- If you follow these steps, you'll end up with a durable, professional looking painted interior.
-- If you plan on painting your entire dash, or your gauge cluster cover, a really light color like white or bright yellow, be aware that on sunny days, it will be reflected onto your windshield, and in my opinion is a bit distracting, and can make it difficult to see sometimes.
-- Always spray paint in a well ventilated area.
-- This process is only meant to be used on plastic pieces. I have no experience painting vinyl-covered surfaces.

The Process:
Remove each piece that you want to paint (consult manual if unsure how to remove pieces).
Use the following process on each piece you want to paint:
-- Wash with soapy water to remove built-up dirt and grease.
-- Sand each surface you wish to paint with 320 grit sandpaper.
-- Swab each piece with rubbing alcohol to remove any left-over Armoral, finger grease, etc.
-- Wash again with soapy water to remove rubbing alcohol residue.
* at this point, be sure hold the pieces by the edges, or by surfaces that won't be visible. This is to avoid getting greasy finger-prints on the prepped surfaces.
-- Mask off any areas that you do not want to get paint on.
-- Apply 2 coats of primer. I used Rustoleum Primer.
* When I refer to "coats" I actually mean LOTS of really light applications of primer/paint. remember to take your time, spray a little bit, give it a few minutes, spray again, etc. Do whatever you have to in order to avoid soaking the pieces. You'll just get runs and sags like crazy.
-- Primer dries pretty quickly.
-- Once each coat dries, it's a good idea to lightly sand the primer with 320 grit paper. And sand after the 2nd coat as well.
-- After sanding each time, wash the piece again with soapy water to remove sanding dust.
-- Apply 3-4 coats of paint. I used Krylon Interior/Exterior paint from the local parts supply chain.
* Again, remember to take your time applying the paint. The Krylon takes a lot longer to dry than the primer does, so give it a bunch more time.
-- Once the paint has completely dried (I would give it at least 24 hours to be on the safe side), apply 2-3 coats of clear enamel. I used Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel for this.
* Same process as with the primer and paint steps.
-- Let the pieces dry again for at least 24 hours before handling. It's the most frustrating thing to spend all this time and energy on painting the pieces, only to put a fingerprint in them or scratch them with a screw-driver trying to install them while they're still a little soft. BE PATIENT!

Originally posted by ci5ic


Why not?

Here's the method I used:

Materials/Tools required:
-- Primer.
-- Krylon Interior/Exterior paint
-- Clear Enamel
-- 320 grit sand-paper
-- Rubbing alcohol and Q-tips and/or cotton balls
-- Masking tape (also good to have masking tape with attached drop-cloth)
-- Various sockets/screw-drivers, etc. for removing pieces

A few words about technique/safety:
-- When spraying your primer, paint, or clear-coat, be sure to keep the tip of your finger out of the spray. Having your finger in the way will cause paint mist to build up on your fingertip, and the airflow will blow the built-up paint off your finger in the form of little droplets of paint. If these drops land on the piece you're working on, you might as well start over, cuz they look like crap. The same thing happens if you use a plastic pistol-grip attachment on your spray cans.
-- I can't say enough how important patience is. If you rush, you are going to make mistakes, and if you don't fix the mistakes (which is a huge hassle), you'll have a horrible looking interior. So it's best to just do it right the first time. Do whatever you can to avoid over-spraying the pieces. Personally, I smoked A LOT of cigarettes and drank A LOT of beer between applications, just to keep myself from using too much paint all at once.
-- I made the mistake of painting all my trim outside on my back deck. For some reason, bugs were really attracted to my paint and clear-coat, and kept landing on the pieces. They'd get stuck in the wet paint, and some of them are still visible in the finished pieces. If you have access to a well ventilated garage or paint-booth, I would highly recommend using it.
-- If you follow these steps, you'll end up with a durable, professional looking painted interior.
-- If you plan on painting your entire dash, or your gauge cluster cover, a really light color like white or bright yellow, be aware that on sunny days, it will be reflected onto your windshield, and in my opinion is a bit distracting, and can make it difficult to see sometimes.
-- Always spray paint in a well ventilated area.
-- This process is only meant to be used on plastic pieces. I have no experience painting vinyl-covered surfaces.

The Process:
Remove each piece that you want to paint (consult manual if unsure how to remove pieces).
Use the following process on each piece you want to paint:
-- Wash with soapy water to remove built-up dirt and grease.
-- Sand each surface you wish to paint with 320 grit sandpaper.
-- Swab each piece with rubbing alcohol to remove any left-over Armoral, finger grease, etc.
-- Wash again with soapy water to remove rubbing alcohol residue.
* at this point, be sure hold the pieces by the edges, or by surfaces that won't be visible. This is to avoid getting greasy finger-prints on the prepped surfaces.
-- Mask off any areas that you do not want to get paint on.
-- Apply 2 coats of primer. I used Rustoleum Primer.
* When I refer to "coats" I actually mean LOTS of really light applications of primer/paint. remember to take your time, spray a little bit, give it a few minutes, spray again, etc. Do whatever you have to in order to avoid soaking the pieces. You'll just get runs and sags like crazy.
-- Primer dries pretty quickly.
-- Once each coat dries, it's a good idea to lightly sand the primer with 320 grit paper. And sand after the 2nd coat as well.
-- After sanding each time, wash the piece again with soapy water to remove sanding dust.
-- Apply 3-4 coats of paint. I used Krylon Interior/Exterior paint from the local parts supply chain.
* Again, remember to take your time applying the paint. The Krylon takes a lot longer to dry than the primer does, so give it a bunch more time.
-- Once the paint has completely dried (I would give it at least 24 hours to be on the safe side), apply 2-3 coats of clear enamel. I used Rustoleum Crystal Clear Enamel for this.
* Same process as with the primer and paint steps.
-- Let the pieces dry again for at least 24 hours before handling. It's the most frustrating thing to spend all this time and energy on painting the pieces, only to put a fingerprint in them or scratch them with a screw-driver trying to install them while they're still a little soft. BE PATIENT!

All that work and people will still call you a riceboy. Either way do what you like. The method listed above is proven and does look nice if youre into that sort of thing. Im just lending what the popular vote to spraying your interior is.

everyone calls everything that they don't think is their style is rice.

I hope that this is a very good method because i plan on using it soon. I just got my '92 accord for my birthday almost a month ago. I love it to death it's stock maroon and i plan on totally redoing the interior/exteriord and making some mods under the hood.