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Turn Signals Not Working


ilLUMINAteddriver
01-29-2007, 12:59 PM
First, lemme say thanks a lot, you guys have helped me out tremendously. Your advice has been very much appreciated and has helped me get the work my car needed done to it done and not overcharged in the process when I couldn't do it myself.

So, now I have a new problem. I think I broke a contact/switch when I was trying to come home the other night in -20 North Country weather. I used my turn signal and felt something give when clicking it on. Now, if I'm lucky, I can get the right turn signal to come on, the hazards don't work, and the left I might get a rapid clicking from the soelenoid but the lights won't work. I've pulled the fuses and checked them and they're all fine.

So, I'm guessing I have a bad mutifunction switch. So, I figure I have to replace it or at least get in there and see if I just popped a wire loose or something (which is a pipe dream, I know, but I'm poor :) ) before I can drive this thing again and make left-hand turns again. Or pay for another tow, and I'm not doing THAT again. So, I guess my question is, how in the blankity-blank do I get the trim covers off the steering column? My repair manual just says to do it and makes a vague reference to another chapter that doesn't have the information in it. I haven't gotten out there to dig around and look yet because, well, it's like 15 degrees out and I have to work outside.

Help?

Oh yeah, and is there anything I really should know or have for special tools before I start this? It's a 97 GL sedan.

Much appreciated!

shorod
01-29-2007, 11:27 PM
There's probably someone who's done this recently, but on my '98 SHO, there were two screws from underneath that I had to take out, then the trim came apart in two pieces. I believe both screws were #2 Phillips head screws. I think I had to unscrew the tilt level to get the bottom trim piece completely off.

-Rod

way2old
01-30-2007, 07:34 PM
To add to Rod's post. The swtch is held in place by 2 T20 torx screws.

ilLUMINAteddriver
01-30-2007, 08:32 PM
Thanks guys! That's jivving with what I'm seeing here, thankfully. I have the torx bit I'll need, but my question now becomes will I have to pull off the lock cylinder? My repair manual says I have to, but if I can get away without doing so I'd like to. Less to put back together, less to go wrong, as it were.

Currently waiting to see if I can get the part from an e-bay auction before I order it/attempt to fix/do anything more.

I'll let you know how it comes out.

Thanks again and any further insight would be much appreciated!:iceslolan

shorod
01-30-2007, 09:19 PM
According to the service manual, you will need to remove the key cylinder switch:
1. Disconnect battery ground cable (14301). Refer to «Section 14-01».

2. Tilt column to lowest position and remove key release lever (3F527).

3. Remove ignition switch lock cylinder (11582).

4. Remove shroud screws and remove upper steering column shroud (3530) and lower steering column shroud.

5. Remove two self-tapping TORX® screws retaining multi-function switch (13K359) to steering column tube casting. Disengage multi-function switch from casting.

6. Disconnect the two electrical connectors.
--------------

Removing the key cylinder switch really isn't too difficult. Turn the key to the "run" position, press the release button under the cylinder and pull the assembly out.

-Rod

way2old
01-31-2007, 08:00 PM
The service manual says yes---35 plus years experience says no. If you are really careful, and it is warm, you can separate the trim enough to remove the switch. But removal of the ignition cylinder is easy and almost fool proof. Turn ignition to the on position. There is a small hole that you can insert a small screwdriver into and push up on the lock pin and pull cylinder out of the column. Installation is just insert cylinder and turn key to lock position.

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