Engine stalls (sometimes), error code 51

Need some help. I have a -96 Voyager, 3.3l engine with 220 000km. My problem is that the car sometimes stalls and lose power, eventually it will come to a stop. Sometimes it restarts after a while but it will soon repeat the same stalling procedure. If I pump the throttle (small movements) it someetimes will go a little better. If I leave the car a couple of hours or for a day it will function perfect for a couple of kms.
When the problems started i changed the fuel filter, after that it worked fine for a while. When I changed the filter I disconnected the battery, can that have made the car work better for a while?
When obtaining error codes I got code 51 (and of course 12 and 55).
Anyone got any ideas?????
BTW here in Sweden we have temperatures below freezing point if that matters.

Thank you in advance.

Per

Need some help. I have a -96 Voyager, 3.3l engine with 220 000km. My problem is that the car sometimes stalls and lose power, eventually it will come to a stop. Sometimes it restarts after a while but it will soon repeat the same stalling procedure. If I pump the throttle (small movements) it someetimes will go a little better. If I leave the car a couple of hours or for a day it will function perfect for a couple of kms.
When the problems started i changed the fuel filter, after that it worked fine for a while. When I changed the filter I disconnected the battery, can that have made the car work better for a while?
When obtaining error codes I got code 51 (and of course 12 and 55).
Anyone got any ideas?????
BTW here in Sweden we have temperatures below freezing point if that matters.



Thank you in advance.

Per


Code 51 is for a lean fuel running system.
Check fuel pressure and map sensor and 02 sensors temp sensors and vacuum leaks or anything to make it run lean..

Are you running the tank low on fuel?

Clear codes and see what comes back.

If all else fails get it on a OBD11 scanner and read out sensors.

Per[/QUOTE]

Need some help. I have a -96 Voyager, 3.3l engine with 220 000km. My problem is that the car sometimes stalls and lose power, eventually it will come to a stop. Sometimes it restarts after a while but it will soon repeat the same stalling procedure. If I pump the throttle (small movements) it someetimes will go a little better. If I leave the car a couple of hours or for a day it will function perfect for a couple of kms.
When the problems started i changed the fuel filter, after that it worked fine for a while. When I changed the filter I disconnected the battery, can that have made the car work better for a while?
When obtaining error codes I got code 51 (and of course 12 and 55).
Anyone got any ideas?????
BTW here in Sweden we have temperatures below freezing point if that matters.

Thank you in advance.

Per


Code 51 is for a lean fuel running system.
Check fuel pressure and map sensor and 02 sensors temp sensors and vacuum leaks or anything to make it run lean..

Are you running the tank low on fuel?

Clear codes and see what comes back.

If all else fails get it on a OBD11 scanner and read out sensors.

Ok, I will check that out. But why is it that when the car has been parked a while it will start and work fine. Then after a while the problems start again.

Also is it possible to somehow "reset" the pcm (or whatever the computer is called) by temporarily disconnecting the battery.

Per.

Ok, I will check that out. But why is it that when the car has been parked a while it will start and work fine. Then after a while the problems start again.

Also is it possible to somehow "reset" the pcm (or whatever the computer is called) by temporarily disconnecting the battery.

Per.

No you need a scanner to clear codes on 96 up.
Check out what I posted in upper post and report back findings.
Are you running the fuel tank low on fuel?
It does it because it id running lean like the code 51 is telling you.
When on a cold start up it richen back up.
And hot it is lean and hard to start.
Repair the lean running problem and then it will start and run good.

Today I found that the rubberhose between the resonator and the "throttle housing" was cracked. I temporarily repaired it and then the car functioned fine. Could that hav been my only trouble? Is that the reason for errorcode 51?
MT-2500 thank you for your replies, I really appreciate your effort.

Per

Today I found that the rubberhose between the resonator and the "throttle housing" was cracked. I temporarily repaired it and then the car functioned fine. Could that hav been my only trouble? Is that the reason for errorcode 51?
MT-2500 thank you for your replies, I really appreciate your effort.

Per

Yes it could be.
Very good find.
Anytime you have a vacuum leak it will lean up engine running.
Clear code or drive it for code to clear on it's own.
If code does not come back that could be the problem.
Let us know how it goes.

First of all. Spoke to a local dealer. The rubber hose cost 1581skr (225 USD). That's amazing. So of course I tried to repair it myself. I used epoxyglue and self vulcanizing rubber tape. The result looks good.

Took the car for a test drive. For about 25 kms it worked perfect. Then the same problems reoccured. DAMNED!!!
I drove another 7kms, took me 2 hours. Then I poured in about 15 liters gasoline. Before that the fuel gague showed a little less than 1/4 level.

I opened the hood and started up the engine, all of a sudden the engine worked fine again. I do not know what to think. I'm pretty sure there was enough fuel before filling it up. One thought that occured. Could there be some kind of vacuum in the gastank. So that when I opened the gascap the vacuum disappeared? BTW the MIL lamp is out and I don't get any error codes anymore.

If the car still give me troble after fuelling i will have to start check the different sensors and fuel pressure. I really need the car because it gets very cold to drive my ATV to work in the winter (even though it's fun).

Per

I realize that these type of problems can come from many causes, and I'm no mechanic. But, the last time I had a car that drove fine then died on me intermittently it turned out to be the catalytic converter was plugged. The catalyst was one solid chunked mess. Just a thought.....

First of all. Spoke to a local dealer. The rubber hose cost 1581skr (225 USD). That's amazing. So of course I tried to repair it myself. I used epoxyglue and self vulcanizing rubber tape. The result looks good.

Took the car for a test drive. For about 25 kms it worked perfect. Then the same problems reoccured. DAMNED!!!
I drove another 7kms, took me 2 hours. Then I poured in about 15 liters gasoline. Before that the fuel gague showed a little less than 1/4 level.

I opened the hood and started up the engine, all of a sudden the engine worked fine again. I do not know what to think. I'm pretty sure there was enough fuel before filling it up. One thought that occured. Could there be some kind of vacuum in the gastank. So that when I opened the gascap the vacuum disappeared? BTW the MIL lamp is out and I don't get any error codes anymore.

If the car still give me troble after fuelling i will have to start check the different sensors and fuel pressure. I really need the car because it gets very cold to drive my ATV to work in the winter (even though it's fun).

Per

Well rule no 1 is to keep plenty of gas in the tank and do not trust the gauge.

Try Keeping over a 1/2 tank in it and see how it goes.

What did the dealer call the hose?
Can you describe it some more or post a picture of it?

Do you have you original fuel pump? My 96 T&C quit on the highway in May of 2005. I was able to limp for an hour when it decided to run. The car ran fine for 7 months when it acted up again. Only this time required a tow a long tow. After sitting at the shop for 2 days, it started and showed good fuel pressure. A week later it was back in the shop where it sat over the weekend. On Monday it started and checked out fine. At this point I decided to have the pump changed anyway. Problem solved. My T&C had 125,000 miles at the time. Sorry for the long story but it is still fresh in my mind. These pumps don't always fail as you would expect. Mine was slow and painful.

Good luck,
Ray

First of all. Spoke to a local dealer. The rubber hose cost 1581skr (225 USD). That's amazing. So of course I tried to repair it myself. I used epoxyglue and self vulcanizing rubber tape. The result looks good.

Took the car for a test drive. For about 25 kms it worked perfect. Then the same problems reoccured. DAMNED!!!
I drove another 7kms, took me 2 hours. Then I poured in about 15 liters gasoline. Before that the fuel gague showed a little less than 1/4 level.

I opened the hood and started up the engine, all of a sudden the engine worked fine again. I do not know what to think. I'm pretty sure there was enough fuel before filling it up. One thought that occured. Could there be some kind of vacuum in the gastank. So that when I opened the gascap the vacuum disappeared? BTW the MIL lamp is out and I don't get any error codes anymore.

If the car still give me troble after fuelling i will have to start check the different sensors and fuel pressure. I really need the car because it gets very cold to drive my ATV to work in the winter (even though it's fun).

Per

If you live where it is cold then get a couple of bottles of isopropyl based gasline antifreeze , dump them in the tank and then fill it with gas and see if that helps , have a 96 that has a real problem with winter blend gas and this helps minimize high ideling and surging and power cutouts ... No codes are thrown on mine and none can pinpoint it but the antifreeze minimizes it , you may need 2 bottle initially , i have found that I have to dump 1 in every tank during the winter , goes away in warmer weather .

Thank you for all your suggestions. I don't know wether the pump is the original, I owned the car for just 4 years. The thought has crossed my mind, but it's quite expensive so I can't afford to exchange it just to be sure.

I also tried to pour some antifreeze in the fueltank, maybe I should pour in some more.

Today I took the car for a drive, about 20 kms, it worked perfect.
Just in case i brought some tools and a timing test stroboscope lamp. I thought that I need to test the spark to each sparkplug in case the car starts to malfunction again. Thats to exklude ignition problems. I think it's a little bit difficult to know wether its an ignition or a fuel problem.

I don't have a picture or name on that hose. But the hose goes from the resonator to the injection body. It's about 25 cm long and 7 cm i diameter

Per