idler arm rebuild?

Hello. I've got a 97 Jimmy. My idler arm is starting to wear and cause a pretty big pull to the right. I can make it move by pushing and pulling on it.

Anyhow, my question is, can an idler arm be rebuilt?

I know it's fairly cheap to replace the whole thing, I was just wondering if anyone had done this.

Ive never herd of anyone rebuilding one.

No they are not rebuildable as the two main metal parts is what wears out. Why even think of trying to rebuild when a new cheap idler is only 20 bucks and the new expensive ones run from 30 to 50 bucks.

The problem may not be in the idler arm - they all will have a little movement - here's how to check it.

Proper procedure for checking an idler arm for looseness or wear.

The suspension should be normally loaded on the ground or on an alignment rack. When raised by a frame contact hoist, the vehicle's steering linkage is allowed to hang, and proper testing cannot be done.
Jerking the front wheel and tire assembly back and forth (causing an up- and down-movement in the idler arm) is not an acceptable method of checking, as there is no control on the amount of force being applied.
Check the idler arm ends for worn sockets or deteriorated bushings.
Grasp the center link firmly with your hand at the idler arm end.
Push up with approximately a 25-pound (110 N) load.
Pull down with the same load.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2006-5/1178639/IdlerArmCheck.jpg
The allowable movement of the idler arm and support assembly in one direction is 1/8 inch (3 mm), for a total acceptable movement of 1/4 inch (6 mm).
The load can be accurately measured by using a dial indicator or pull spring scale located as near the center link end of the idler arm as possible.
Keep in mind that the test forces should not exceed 25 pounds (110 N), as even a new idler arm might be forced to show movement due to steel flexing when excessive pressure is applied.
It is also necessary that a scale or ruler be rested against the frame and used to determine the amount of movement.
Observers tend to overestimate the actual movement when a scale is not used.
The idler arm should always be replaced if it fails this test.


Center Links - may also be called a Drag Link, Connecting Arm or Steering Arm Rod.

• When inspecting the center link, look closely to insure it has not been bent or damaged.
• Grasp the center link firmly and try moving it in all directions.
• Any movement, or sign of damage, is reason for replacement.
• Tapered openings seldom wear but should be checked for enlargement caused by a loose connection. If necessary, replace the center link.

Tie-rod end

• Tie-rod end and center link inspections are similar.
• Grasp the tie-rod end firmly.
• Push vertically with the stud, and inspect for movement at the joint with the steering knuckle.

Any movement over 1/8 inch (3 mm) or observation of damaged or missing parts, such as seals, is sufficient evidence that replacement is necessary.
An additional check of the tie-rods can be made by rotating each tie-rod end to feel for roughness or binding, which could indicate that the socket has probably rusted internally. A special puller is often required to separate a tie-rod end from the steering knuckle.