94 camero

this may be dumb question, but there are none of those
besides NOZ how can i get the most horses out of my 94 camero

Ok, first off and I know someone is going to nail you on this. It's spelled Camaro, not Camero, just a FYI. What are you asking exactly? You want the most hp with out using N2O? Or you want to use N2O? Nitrous is one if not the cheapest way to add hp to your car. I got the info I am going to paste from another site, this person spent alot of there own time and the credit for the info should go to jaberwaki at a undisclosed forum.


A. Nitrous Oxide

Nitrous Oxide (or N2O) is a chemical oxidizer; it is two parts nitrogen and one part oxygen. The oxygen is the part that makes power. Gasoline combines with oxygen in a combustible mixture. The more of both gasoline and oxygen you have, in the proper amounts, the more power you make. So why not inject pure oxygen? Simple: pure oxygen is much, much more intense of an oxidizer. Having about five times the intensity that N2O provides, pure oxygen would melt your motor.

Bang for buck, N2O is the fastest way to make power. That being said, N2O has a bad reputation for giving more BANG then people expected. Let me go on record as saying, this is not the N2O's fault. The fault is on the person trying to get away with spraying nitrous and only having $500 total to put into it. Nitrous is a SAFE power adder, if it is both set up correctly and used properly.



Setup Types

There are 3 major types of nitrous setups.
1. Dry
2. Wet
3. Direct port

As with most choices, there are pluses and minuses to all of them.

Dry:
A dry shot relies on the car's MAF, PCM, and fuel system to add the proper amount of fuel to balance the nitrous out. That is, the nitrous is sprayed in front of the MAF, which recognizes a sudden spike in O2 and signals the PCM, which decides the proper amount of fuel needed to balance the mixture. It is the cheapest of the setups to purchase. It also leaves no chance of fuel "puddling" in the intake. The weak point in this system is the car's fuel system. The dry shot is limited to the car's ability to increase fuel. Often a shot will find the weak spot in the fuel system, be it the injectors, the fuel pump, etc. Spraying N2O without the fuel to support it equals the kiss of death for your car.

Wet:
A wet shot does not rely on the car's MAF, PCM, or injectors to provide the proper amount of fuel to balance the mixture. It has a separate fuel line with its own jetting that is set up to spray the exact amount of fuel needed to go with the size nitrous shot you are using. In some cases, this may require you to step up your fuel pump, but you need not worry about your injectors. Some drawbacks are that with a separate fuel line and the fact that the spray is happening AFTER the MAF, any trouble with the system will go unnoticed by your PCM until it's too late. If your nitrous stops spraying but the fuel does not, then it will puddle and possibly introduce you to your hood-- the hard way... If the fuel side cuts out but the nitrous side does not, then you will go drastically lean and blow your motor. Threat of these things can be minimized. Buy GOOD parts, not the cheapest you can get away with.

Direct Port:
A direct port setup mixes the N2O and fuel, and directly injects the mixture into each individual cylinder. It is by far and away the safest and best way to use N2O. It does have one major drawback... PRICE. The direct port system by itself, can cost north of $1500. That does not include any of the supporting parts, that really are must-haves with ANY nitrous setup.


Accessories

Not just the base kit. If you plan on running N2O and would like your car to last more then just one or two runs down the 1/4, then you should compliment your base kit with the proper accessories. These include:

- RPM Window Switch: It will turn your nitrous kit off and on at preset RPMs, 1. so you don't spray under low RPMs, which can blow your motor; and 2. so you don't spray right into your rev limiter, same reason.

- Fuel Pressure Safety Switch: If your fuel pressure drops below a safe range while spraying nitrous, the safety switch will shut the nitrous off to keep from running the engine too lean.

- Bottle Pressure Gauge: It allows you to safely monitor your nitrous pressure from the passenger compartment.

- Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) Switch: Also called a WOT switch, it only allows your kit to turn on when you are at Wide Open Throttle.

- Automatic Bottle Heater: It will keep your bottle at the correct temperature and pressure to ensure that you are spraying the correct size shot. This is especially important in a wet shot setup, as the shot of fuel will not adjust to the lack of nitrous from a cold bottle.

- Purge Kit: This vents old nitrous left in the lines from the last time you sprayed, and keeps it out of your motor.


This is not everything there is to know about nitrous. It is only a quick, down and dirty introduction to entry-level knowledge that you should have before you go the N2O route.

(As a side note, it should be said that referring to nitrous as NAWS or NOS is a good way to get made fun of at the track, and could even get your ass kicked.)

Cam, head porting (with some 1.6 roller rockers), headers, catback, cai (also get a 1LE elbow), larger SVO injectors, 52MM TB, 3.73 - 4.11 ring gears (depending on auto or stick), shift kit and 2400+ stall if its a auto. (don't forget to due all the free mods) and you will be eating up pretty much 95% of factory cars out there.

and is it a LT1 or a 3.4?

Jer, you coulda used the **edit feature and helped the poor lad out with the little spelling snafu :disappoin

:newbie:

Jer, you coulda used the **edit feature and helped the poor lad out with the little spelling snafu :disappoin

:newbie:
No its all good. I wonder where he is tho

lol "NOZ"

Thanks for the responces. BTW its a LT1 sorry I didn't say that in the begining. What about putting a turbo on it? Obviouly it will help with horse power, but what kind of money should I shell out, for what kind of horse power?

I hate when people type "camaro" with an E anywhere in it.

I also hate when people call all nitrous NOS... that is one specific brand. Stop watching fast and the furious, ricer.

I hate when people type "camaro" with an E anywhere in it.

I also hate when people call all nitrous NOS... that is one specific brand. Stop watching fast and the furious, ricer.I hate when little people don't make me my damn cookies :icon16:

if youre looking at getting that much more power out of your LT, youre gonna have to do a full rebuild of the block.. specially if youre gonna go turbo you might as well get all new internals.. (since the old ones are prolly wearing out)

is the 300hp not enough for ya? :P

Force induction at or above 6PSI does involve opening her up and beefing up the internals as well as lowering compression ratio but a N/A car with a cam change and some head port work (which is semi opening up anyway) can achieve around 500 horse with all the supporting mods.