wondering if normal or not
etuke
01-17-2007, 08:54 PM
I have a 93 1500 4x4 and when I put the lever to 4 high it takes about 30 secs to engage and before its fully engaged the indicator will blink in and out before comming on solid and engaging.Is this the vacuum switch on the t-case or just normal?My brother has a 2004 with the lever and it engages within 10 secs with no hesitation.
jocat54
01-17-2007, 09:00 PM
I don't think that the blinking on and off is normal, the 30 secs is about normal though. Not sure what would be causing the light to blink, but would guess something to do with the actuator. I also have 93 k1500 and mine does take a few secs to engage but does not blink.
2000CAYukon
01-17-2007, 09:38 PM
I have a 90 K1500 and the 4x4 light does not blink. Looking at the factory service manuals for 90, the thermal actuator will cause an indicator switch to close (which causes the 4x4 light to come on).
Either the indicator switch is bad or the thermal actuator is bad (i.e. it goes in and out while warming up) causing the light to flash.
//2000CAYukon
Either the indicator switch is bad or the thermal actuator is bad (i.e. it goes in and out while warming up) causing the light to flash.
//2000CAYukon
thecackster
01-17-2007, 10:09 PM
30 sec is about tops how long it should take. I have a 97' push button and sometimes it's about 20 sec. And it blinks until it's fully engages. I thing your okay. My old work truck used to do that too. it was late 80's
etuke
01-17-2007, 10:41 PM
It only blinks while the first engage and when the light does go solid its in and dosent slip out.If I turn the truck off for a bit then restart the 4x4 will disengage but will engage a lil quicker than if the lever were pulled out.Everything works its just that when you need the 4x4 in a hurry(when your spinning up a hill with cars behind you)it takes so long or so it seems.During the actuall light blinking the 4x4 isnt engaged only engaged when on steady.I was thinking maybe the vacuum switch might have been taking a lil longer sending the vacuum out,maybe do to age or leaking.
JaVeRo
01-18-2007, 01:16 PM
The full size trucks of that year model use a thermal actuator. Only the S10 had the vacuum actuator. The colder it is to longer it will take to engage.
Your best option is to upgrade it to the motor driven actuator like the later year models use. There is a special wiring harness that will adapt the older trucks to the new motor driven actuator and requires splicing in one wire.
If you are interested in doing this upgrade, there are several post here about how it is done.
Here is one: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=277960&highlight=actuator+upgrade
James
Your best option is to upgrade it to the motor driven actuator like the later year models use. There is a special wiring harness that will adapt the older trucks to the new motor driven actuator and requires splicing in one wire.
If you are interested in doing this upgrade, there are several post here about how it is done.
Here is one: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=277960&highlight=actuator+upgrade
James
etuke
01-18-2007, 03:58 PM
The full size trucks of that year model use a thermal actuator. Only the S10 had the vacuum actuator. The colder it is to longer it will take to engage.
Your best option is to upgrade it to the motor driven actuator like the later year models use. There is a special wiring harness that will adapt the older trucks to the new motor driven actuator and requires splicing in one wire.
If you are interested in doing this upgrade, there are several post here about how it is done.
Here is one: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=277960&highlight=actuator+upgrade
James
Thanks for the info,as long as its normal I will just leave it untill it fails all together,sounds like upgrading would be a bit costly just to save a few seconds.
Your best option is to upgrade it to the motor driven actuator like the later year models use. There is a special wiring harness that will adapt the older trucks to the new motor driven actuator and requires splicing in one wire.
If you are interested in doing this upgrade, there are several post here about how it is done.
Here is one: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=277960&highlight=actuator+upgrade
James
Thanks for the info,as long as its normal I will just leave it untill it fails all together,sounds like upgrading would be a bit costly just to save a few seconds.
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