Heating Issues

So, after I had fixed most of my problems with this car, another one showed up since the weather has begun cooling off here in Michigan. Specifically, once the car is warmed up, and the heater has been going, if I come to a full stop for any amount of time, I can feel the temperature of the air drop off near immediately. Also, if it has been idling to warm up prior to me leaving, and it has not been in motion, the air inside will not be warm until after the car is set in motion. Any help?

As well, I have one other issue. There is a slight knocking, non-engine related, that seems to come from one of the strut locations. I assume that this could easily be from a loose nut as I have read, and these are accessed from under the hood for the front two?

Thanks again all.
Joe

You Can Try To Upgrade Your Thermostat To A Hotter One So It Will Open Later So Then The Temp Will Be Higher So Air Will Be Warmer. Your Problem I Think Is Not Fixable I Had The Same Problem And Was Told It Couldnt Be Fixed ..but If Im Wrong Someone Tell Me So I Can Let The Person Know Who Said It Couldnt Be Fixed..they Hes A Retard

It would help to post what engine you have.

It sounds like you may have a thermostat stuck either partially or full open. Or a restricted cooling system to inlude air or low coolant level. The stock thermostat rating is 195 degrees. Are you getting the same problem in all blower speed positions?

The most common problem on an Alero causing wierd sounds from the suspension are the upper strut mounts/load bearing. The strut must be removed to replace that part.

Thanks For The Reply

It would help to post what engine you have.

It sounds like you may have a thermostat stuck either partially or full open. Or a restricted cooling system to inlude air or low coolant level. The stock thermostat rating is 195 degrees. Are you getting the same problem in all blower speed positions?

The most common problem on an Alero causing wierd sounds from the suspension are the upper strut mounts/load bearing. The strut must be removed to replace that part.


I have the V6, I believe its a 3.4L... I know the coolant level is good, but not sure about air in the system. How can I check that? Actually I should propably flush the system anyways as I just rolled 100k not long ago. I assume removing the struts is a royal pain d'azz, as you need a strut compressor and all. Does the strut have to be replaced to replace the mount or are they separate? Also, could this mount, if bad, be causing an occasional shakiness on the freeway- similar to bad rotors, but not under braking, just when the road is kinda rough...

Thanks again.

I have the V6, I believe its a 3.4L... I know the coolant level is good, but not sure about air in the system. How can I check that? Actually I should propably flush the system anyways as I just rolled 100k not long ago. I assume removing the struts is a royal pain d'azz, as you need a strut compressor and all. Does the strut have to be replaced to replace the mount or are they separate? Also, could this mount, if bad, be causing an occasional shakiness on the freeway- similar to bad rotors, but not under braking, just when the road is kinda rough...

Thanks again.

You can bleed air out by using the bleeder located on that black tower (heater return line) on top of the water pump. Since you have at least 100k miles it would be a good idea to flush the cooling system and then do the bleeding. Alot of people are switching to other antifreeze like the Prestone Extended Life. It is fully Dexcool compatible and based on the same OAT technology. Contrary to the long life claim the Dexcool gets flaky after about 5 years.

With 100k miles I would replace the struts. Front first, you can do the rear later on. The upper strut mount/load bearing is separate from the strut. You will need a strut coil spring compressor to remove the upper strut mount. Any worn out parts that contain rubber like bushings or weak/worn out struts can cause the shaky feeling. When struts are replaced the alignment should be checked.