New Ignition coil...MSD Blaster 2 good?

Hello everyone. I thought I would put in a slightly better ignition coil in my 92 Geo Metro. Would the MSD Blaster 2 ignition coil be good? I want slightly better than a stock coil. I checked out MSD's specs, and for factory electronic ignition systems, the MSD Blaster 2 is recommended for GM and Ford ignition systems. Let me know if this is a good choice! Thanks so much!

I also found an Accel Ignition Coil SuperStock, that's universal. Is that a good one too? Anyone use that on their Geos at all or any other vehicle? Any input would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Dan

PS. I just checked my coil with what the service manual says it should read. Service manual says the primary coil winding should be between 1.33 and 1.55 ohms. Reads 1.2 ohms. Secondary coil winding should be between 10.7k and 14.5k ohms. It reads 10.6k ohms. Sounds like a weak coil. Would that contribute to slightly rough idling and overall engine performance? Well get back to me, anyone, concerning this. I might've found one problem why my car is running rough and missing occasionally.

primary coil winding should be between 1.33 and 1.55 ohms. Reads 1.2 ohms. Secondary coil winding should be between 10.7k and 14.5k ohms. It reads 10.6k ohms. Sounds like a weak coil. Would that contribute to slightly rough idling and overall engine performance? Well get back to me, anyone, concerning this. I might've found one problem why my car is running rough and missing occasionally.

Both MSD and ACCEL make good stuff, I personally am biased toward MSD for no particular reason.

Your measurements are on the low side - and according to the manual should be replaced. I do not think they are far enough away from spec. to be concerned, however, and I do not think the coil is causing your problem based solely on the ohm readings you've posted. I had a 4cyl with an OPEN secondary coil circuit that still ran (though missing, stumbling and the like). How are the wires plugs cap and rotor? Hows the timing? Hows the TPS? Hows fuel delivery? Clean air filter?

-mechanicmatt

Wires, plugs, cap and rotor are all brand new. TPS seems to be fine, it's able to be adjusted to the right ohm readings when calibrated. Fuel delivery is ok, although I smell fuel once in a great while, as if the engine is getting too much fuel. It's probably a burnt valve, haven't had a compression check done yet, but I can't afford to get another engine at this time. The current 3-cyl has almost 160,000 miles which is a lot for these engines. Although I made up my mind in 1-2 months I'm gonna get a brand new engine for my Geo...cost about $1000 on eBay, but it comes with a 7 year, 70,000 mile warranty.

Dan

PS. New air filter. Going to install new water pump today, as the old one started to leak. New fuel filter. New alternator. I've also replaced some of the sensors...new o2 sensor, new coolant temp sensor. Also timing is right at specs. Smogged the car within the last two months...finally passed after I got the timing back to factory specs. Runs rough though. Still haven't diagnosed the problem, although I KNOW putting in a new engine will solve any and all problems with everything, lol.

Ya know, I've had to replace a distributor because of a bad igniter which caused me similar symptoms. But typically when the igniter starts to go, it becomes very difficult to set the timing because it jumps around a lot - so if the proper procedure for setting the timing wasn't oddly challenging then it's probably not the case. Even so it is very easy to check the module for proper resistence and compare to spec. Also, a jumped timing belt may be something to have a glance at. And even though it passed smog, you might try simply unbolting the exhaust system from the manifold and seeing if there is an improvement. Check that the EGR is functioning properly (if so equipped), and perhaps first and foremost be sure there are no vacuum leaks.

-mechanicmatt

Yeah I put all new vacuum hoses on a little while ago. Just found out though, it had the wrong spark plugs installed. They were the NGK r6es, it should have the r6es-11's. But I'm working on it little by little. Learning about it as I go. I work a lot so it's hard for me to find time to tinker with it. I also forgot to mention I put on a newer map sensor and a new idle speed control valve. The EGR valve is carboned up but still can see the hole, but I probably should clean that up. I'm not sure if it needs a new catalytic converter, as I'm unsure if the one on it is original. I know those can cause quite a few problems. Guess one way to check is to unbolt the exhaust system huh, taking the catalytic converter off, to see if it runs better?

Forgot to mention also, sometimes the car is very hard to start. Gotta hold down the gas pedal all the way to the floor, and crank the engine over for half a minute before it starts up. Happens every once in a while but it's really strange. Most of the other times, it starts up right away, but still is sluggish to get to idling correct.

Dan

Yeah I put all new vacuum hoses on a little while ago. Just found out though, it had the wrong spark plugs installed. They were the NGK r6es, it should have the r6es-11's. But I'm working on it little by little. Learning about it as I go. I work a lot so it's hard for me to find time to tinker with it. I also forgot to mention I put on a newer map sensor and a new idle speed control valve. The EGR valve is carboned up but still can see the hole, but I probably should clean that up. I'm not sure if it needs a new catalytic converter, as I'm unsure if the one on it is original. I know those can cause quite a few problems. Guess one way to check is to unbolt the exhaust system huh, taking the catalytic converter off, to see if it runs better?

Forgot to mention also, sometimes the car is very hard to start. Gotta hold down the gas pedal all the way to the floor, and crank the engine over for half a minute before it starts up. Happens every once in a while but it's really strange. Most of the other times, it starts up right away, but still is sluggish to get to idling correct.

Dan
K good, it looks like we may be getting somewhere now. The wrong plugs can make a car run crappy, but will not cause symptoms as extreme as yours all by themselves - not on a metro anyway. To check EGR operation, manually depress the diaphram - the idle should drop immediately and the car should stall if left depressed for longer than a few seconds - if it does not stall or the idle does not drop, clean out the carbon, and check that the valve closes securely. An EGR issue will make a car run like trash and can create your symptoms if the valve (egr) is leaking exhaust into the intake stream when it should not be. Your symptoms are highly indicative of a poorly flowing exhaust - especially in light of all the stuff you've replaced trying to solve the problem. It is quick and simple (with the aid of some good penetrating lubricant and a source of leverage) to unbolt the exhaust from the manifold to see whether or not it is a clogged(ing) cat or muffler causing your problem. You can also determine excessive exhaust back pressure with the use of a vacuum guage, but for the sake of simplicity, unbolting the exhaust is easier if you do not have a vacuum guage sitting around.

-mechanicmatt

Well, I had a little time tonight to tinker around with it. I started my car, and pressed the EGR diaphragm in as far as I could (it was really hard, I had to put probably 80 pounds of pressure on the diaphragm so it could move with the engine running), and it didn't do anything. Does the engine have to be hot for it to work? Also, while the engine was running, I unplugged both hoses from the EGR valve, and it didn't make a bit of difference with how the engine was running. Sounds like the intake manifold is blocked up in its passages. What's the easiest way to clean out the intake manifold, or the EGR passages anyway? I also blew compressed air through the EGR valve, so that seems to be working.

Have you ever come across a bad VSV valve (the thing that's connected between the intake manifold vacuum hose and the EGR valve...not the modulator but the VSV valve)? Or a bad EGR modulator valve? Just curious.

Please respond as soon as you can about this. I think it probably is an EGR valve issue...I've had many different cars, and each one that had over 150k miles definitely had an EGR valve problem of some sort. While I'm at it though, I'll just buy a new EGR valve on eBay...they're reasonable, since they do a whole lot for the car...and it'd be nice to know to have one that's fully functional.

Dan

I posted a new reply, that I had edited. Please respond asap. Thanks!

Dan

EGR will not come on at idle, nor will it come on when the car is cold. Sounds like you have a bad valve and a clogged egr port from the exhaust manifold to the egr. You should get another one from a junk yard and clean the port. But I think your problem is elsewhere. A while ago, I thought you were talking about a bad MAP? Try putting the old one back in and see if that helps. Also double check all you vacuum hoses with the diagram under you hood. If you can't find another EGR I have several that I have cleaned all the carbon out of and hold vacuum.

Well awhile back I put in a better map sensor...it's been running better, a little bit. Yeah I think I probably have a bad valve too, and a clogged port. In a week or two I'm gonna take off the intake manifold and clean up every single port in that thing, then remount it on my engine. I was going to get a new EGR valve off Ebay, but if you have one that is just as good let me know how much you want for one. Anyway looking forward to hearing back from you. :)

Also just wanted to say, I don't know if I've mentioned this before, but my car only gets between 25-30mpg. It's probably due to the faulty EGR valve. Wouldn't be surprised at all! :)

Dan

...Your symptoms are highly indicative of a poorly flowing exhaust. It is quick and simple... to unbolt the exhaust from the manifold to see whether or not it is a clogged(ing) cat or muffler causing your problem.

-mechanicmatt

:2cents:

After I unbolt the exhaust from the manifold, how would I be able to tell if it is a poor flowing exhaust? By looking down the pipe or starting the engine with the exhaust unbolted? Isn't it dangerous to run the engine without the cat/muffler bolted to the engine?

Also, I don't know if these results will help. When my car passed smog, it BARELY passed on the HC (meas 150 max 153). CO was meas 0.86 max allowed was 0.91. What would cause both high CO and high HC (those measurements were at 15mph at 2k RPM. When the car's timing was at 0 (TDC), HC was meas 83, and CO was 0.56 (half of what it read with timing at 5btdc). Just letting you all know what the stats were. NO was alright, meas 129 max allowed 906.

Dan

To clean the egr port you only need to remove the exhuast manifold fron the head. Takes about 10 minutes to do so. Remove egr valve and what I do is stick a long flexible bruch (from Menards) and move it in and out from the exhaust side. Then I use a can of carb cleaner to flush the port and blow it dry with an air compessor.

Make sure you 02 sensor is new too.

Is your car and auto or 5-speed? The egr have different part#s Notsure if makes a difference or not. I will check my stock to make sure I have the part# for your type of transmission. I know that rockauto doesn't show a difference in egr's but all the ones I pull in the junk yard are transmission specific

Autos, like mine, only get 25-30 around town in the winter. If yours is a manual, you should be doing better.

Also, I don't know if these results will help. When my car passed smog, it BARELY passed on the HC (meas 150 max 153). CO was meas 0.86 max allowed was 0.91. What would cause both high CO and high HC (those measurements were at 15mph at 2k RPM. When the car's timing was at 0 (TDC), HC was meas 83, and CO was 0.56 (half of what it read with timing at 5btdc). Just letting you all know what the stats were. NO was alright, meas 129 max allowed 906.

Dan

RossT and I are spending our time here trying to help you solve your problem. When you post back asking me if my diagnostic methods of trying to isolate your problem are going to pose a danger it makes me quickly lose interest in your trouble. RossT and myself are relaying to you the ways in which we see may help you. HC = Hydrocarbons, gasoline is a hydrocarbon, when you have high HC levels in your exhaust it means your engine is not running efficientyly, namely, not burning all of it's combustion charge, also known as a misfire. CO on an exhaust analyzer measures air/fuel mixture. High CO levels = a rich mixture. Oxides of nitrogen or NOx will be high in an engine with an egr system malfunction or a lean air/fuel mixture. So given the results of the smog we can conclude that your egr system is not malfunctioning. We can also conclude that you are not burning all of your combustion charge. Now, if you are going to tell me why you shouldn't do what people on here ask you to do because they are trying to learn more about your condition, either take it upon yourself to learn how to diagnose it, or take it to a repair shop. A lot of the guys here, such as myself, are industry professionals with education backing their advice, and helping people free of charge away from their place of work. No unbolting your exhaust is not dangerous, and it may just let you know that it is something as simple as taking it to an exhaust shop and having a new cat installed. I also HIGHLY recommend doing a COMPRESSION TEST, PROPERLY, with all the spark plugs removed, and with the throttle wide open, and allowing each cylinder to compress 4 times each, and making sure the battery has enough charge for the test. And then reporting back with the info.
:banghead:

-mechanicmatt

Mine is a 5-speed. Although when I got the car, and since then, the clutch is on its way out. Clutch engages about an inch from the very top of the clutch pedal, which is not good at all. Also the clutch slips in 3rd, 4th, and 5th. Although in a month or so I'm putting in a brand new clutch so that will solve that problem. That might also be why when I let out the clutch I have to have the engine around 2000rpm because the clutch makes the car shake when I let it out. Anyway, looking forward to having a new clutch put in. Should make a world of difference.

But yeah, I get between 25-30mpg in my Geo, but it's a 5-speed. I know I should be getting at LEAST 35 or 40mpg, and I do a lot of highway driving, so it should be even higher than that. But yeah, this Tuesday on my day off I will definitely pull off the exhaust manifold, and make sure the EGR ports are nice and clean!

Well, sorry, but I really had no idea who is a professional or who just is on here because they're just helping people who know less about Geos. Sorry if you took it the wrong way. But yeah, I will run a compression check as soon as I can. But first I will go ahead and unbolt the exhaust manifold and just have a look and see if the EGR system is plugged at all. I will get back to you and everyone else who reads this thread with the results I get once I get time to do it.

Dan

Well, I had a little time tonight to tinker around with it. I started my car, and pressed the EGR diaphragm in as far as I could (it was really hard, I had to put probably 80 pounds of pressure on the diaphragm so it could move with the engine running), and it didn't do anything. Does the engine have to be hot for it to work? Also, while the engine was running, I unplugged both hoses from the EGR valve, and it didn't make a bit of difference with how the engine was running. Sounds like the intake manifold is blocked up in its passages. What's the easiest way to clean out the intake manifold, or the EGR passages anyway? I also blew compressed air through the EGR valve, so that seems to be working.

Dan Dan if you pressed diaphram in and held the car should die so your EGR is not working. To see if or which passage clogged take off EGR and the exhaust side should be blowing out exhaust the intake side if you place your finger on it will be sucking. Sounds like your EGR needs a good cleaning too

Don't worry, tomorrow and Wednesday, one of those days I plan on checking out both the intake side of the EGR passage, and the exhaust side of the EGR. I'll post on here after I check out everything regarding the EGR. I've had MANY MANY problems in the past with different vehicles and EGRs...always seems to be something wrong with either the EGR or Cat Converter. Anyway I'll be getting back to everyone on this soon. I'm actually anxious to see what I'll find. :) Maybe it'll solve most of my problems (hoping so)!

Dan