Wantin One

Hey guys whats up? New in this part of the forum but not new to the forum. Right now I have a SL 3000gt as my name suggests :icon16: . I was very close to buying a GTP before getting my 3000gt but after enough brake downs and the thought of a nice s/c Series II motor I have begun my search for one. As far as reliability goes what are the most common problems sought out in these cars? And is there another site I would assume that specializes in Grand Prixs specifically with possibly a classifieds section at all (kind of like 3si.org except for GP's). Well any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Alex

Clubgp.com has a clasifieds section where people sell used GTP's all the time.
Most common problems are usually small electric problems, wheel bearings, ball-joints, and trans issues. the motor (3.8L S/C) is a strong motor and pretty well built, shouldnt have to many problems. Hope your search goes well....GTP's can make one hell of a sleeper.

Thanks for the website. I'm hoping to find one within a month or two so look for me back in this part of the forums. These run about a 14.6 stock correct?

No problem....They run anywhere from mid 14's to high 14's stock w/ a good driver. Some are fasters than others just depends on if its a 2-door 4-door, daytona edition ect. Mine ran a 14.7 stock and its a 4-door. They can be made in to a mid 13 second cars for about $1,000 in mods or less. Check out ZZperformance.com for more info on mods parts.

Welcome to our forum SL. How's the bike running?

Typically, you'll see 1/4 mile ETs of around 14.9 - 15.1 secs on a box stock GTP even with a good driver. The times will gets worse as the supercharger gets heated up and without sufficient cool down time.

Be careful on any used GTP because most of them have been dogged out by the previous owner(s). Like any used car run it through the mill before purchasing. If you find a good one it will probably be a keeper. Plenty of aftermarket bolt-on mods available.

Click on the link at my signature to check out my GTP. Good luck.

I haven't really had the chance to take the bike out any time recently due to the extremely cold temperatures and snow. But I would sure like to find out. :biggrin:

I talked to a guy with a 1998 Grand Prix GTP 2 dr coupe with 115,000 miles on it. He is asking 4,500 and said he would not mind doing a trade of for my 3000gt (which is kbb priced at $5k). He said it is in immaculate condition but you never know until you see it. According to him everything is mechanically sound with no rust and nice interior with little wear. But we will see.

Oh and nice GTP bnaylor :thumbsup:. That is one hell of a 60' time too.

Well I went to go check out the GTP today and it was in very nice condition. Motor sounded great, no rust, interior showed very little wear, etc. I am going to see what happens with my 3000gt hear and then make my choice.

Just out of curiousity what kind of numbers (ET's, hp/tq, etc) number could be expected out of this package?:

http://www.3800performance.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PP_3800SC_2&Category_Code=PP&Product_Count=1

Well I went to go check out the GTP today and it was in very nice condition. Motor sounded great, no rust, interior showed very little wear, etc. I am going to see what happens with my 3000gt hear and then make my choice.

Sounds good. How many miles and what options are on it?

115,000 miles and it has every option available for the GTP. They are asking $4,500.

115,000 miles and it has every option available for the GTP. They are asking $4,500.

With that mileage according to the NADA guides:

$4,150 (low retail)
$5,300 (average retail)

Price doesn't sound too bad as long as it is is good shape and passes mechanically. Mileage is good for the age.

That Stage 2 kit although it sounds more like a Stage 1 kit gives you a choice of the 3.4" SC pulley or 3.25". I prefer the 3.25 but the 3.4 is a better all around choice. Just get a modular pulley system where you can swap out easily. With the 3.25 you will have to keep an eye out on knock retard (KR) more so than the 3.4.

So can you just swap out the pulley for a 3.4 and not do any supporting mods and expect to safely drive it? And do you know approximately how much of a difference a 3.4" pulley would make?

Oh and do you have any links that explain modding a w-body into some depth?

ZZP is the best for tech explanations on mods. www.zzperformance.com

- Typical gains for the 3.4” pulley is 25-30 HP **
- Typical gains for the 3.25” pulley is 30+ HP **
- Typical gains for the 3.0” pulley is 35+ HP **
** if proper measures have been taken to keep knock retard down

You can run 3.4 pulley even without a reprogrammed PCM module but it is not recommended. You will need to go to colder spark plugs in any case. Use the Autolite Copper Core 605 (one range colder) or 104 (two colder) with a 3.4 pulley. Alot of us have Aeroforce type scanner gauges just to monitor knock retard so that would be worth considering when the funds are available.

Also, exhaust mods help. Bigger downpipe, hi-flow CAT convertor and the u-bend delete. A CAI/FWI is highly recommended. The totality of mods especially intake and exhaust mods will help reduce KR and improve performance.

I have been looking around and the general consensus is that if you run a 3.5" pulley you do not need any immediate supporting modsd. Would you agree to that? Because as of right now I do not plan on doing any extensive modding. I would like to have a mid 14 second car ideally but if that means a 3.4" with a fair amount of supporting mods then that will probably not be the case. What kind of gains are expected out of a 3.5"? I know that for every .1" it is about 1lb of boost so I should be running 11psi correct?

I have been looking around and the general consensus is that if you run a 3.5" pulley you do not need any immediate supporting modsd. Would you agree to that? Because as of right now I do not plan on doing any extensive modding. I would like to have a mid 14 second car ideally but if that means a 3.4" with a fair amount of supporting mods then that will probably not be the case. What kind of gains are expected out of a 3.5"? I know that for every .1" it is about 1lb of boost so I should be running 11psi correct?

:nono:No, do not run a 3.5" w/ no other mods. Atleast do pcm, CAI and the u-bend delete. Whoever said you could safely run a 3.5 w/ no mods is on crack. Im only pushing 11psi w/ my set-up in my sig right now. you have to remember though that more boost isnt always a good thing. If you just slapped on a 3.4 w/ no exhaust mods you probably would be pushing about 12-13 psi...but you need more exhaust flow when you run a smaller pulley so that extra boost has somewhere to go or else you will have KR(knock) like crazy. I blew my first engine in my GTP b/c i didnt listen to people when they told me i needed more mods to run a 3.4. I had a 3.4, CAI, cat-back exhaust and a zzp pcm. I blew my engine due to detenation from KR b/c i didnt scan. W/ the new engine i had but in this last fall i bought i powertunner and scan frequently, im currently not making any knock which is great, but it took me having to get a Downpipe and PEM's, before that i was pushing 1-2* of knock. Im just trying to help you out, dont want to see you blow your engine. Take it safe and get at least exhaust, intake and a reprogrammed pcm before going to a 3.5.

Thanks a lot MVGTP86 and bnaylor. :thumbsup:

This is why I asked this is because I have heard outrageous claims when it comes to boosting with a 3000gt. However I know the 6G72 motor far better than the L67. My 3000gt is already on it's 3rd motor and I do not care to blow that up. If I am going to blow a motor it is going to be my dirtbike motor when I am racing. :grinno: From the sounds of it, if this all goes through I will probably play it safe and just do some intake and exhaust mods for the time being. Not too much harm can be done there. Agian, thanks for all the advice.

Alex