Anti Lock Brakes

Can anyone tell me what the resistance should be on a 200o Blazer 4WD front wheel speed sensor? My haynes manual dosen't show the value. My Chilton that covers the 99 model year shows a value. Between 41 and 110 degrees F. The Resistance should read between 1125 to 1629 OHMS.

Is this coreect for the 2000 model year?

The resistance test is really just a relative "GO/No GO" check of the sensor and wiring. It's best to test the sensor output with an oscilloscope.

Can anyone tell me what the resistance should be on a 200o Blazer 4WD front wheel speed sensor? My haynes manual dosen't show the value. My Chilton that covers the 99 model year shows a value. Between 41 and 110 degrees F. The Resistance should read between 1125 to 1629 OHMS.

Is this coreect for the 2000 model year?

What are they doing or not doing?
Any codes/lights or problems?

Just reading open circuit on left front ABS trouble code. Also sis is complaining about a noise comming from front end. Could be wear sensor could be hub. Haven't had a chance to check yet. Weather sucks here right now and haven't had chance to check.

Just reading open circuit on left front ABS trouble code. Also sis is complaining about a noise comming from front end. Could be wear sensor could be hub. Haven't had a chance to check yet. Weather sucks here right now and haven't had chance to check.

As Blue Bowtie said the test is only works when sensor is dead or acting up.
Always check wiring and plug ins.
Here is a ohm meter test.
http://members.troublecodes.net/crunch/00blazabst.pdf
Good luck and let us know how it goes.

Usually, the ABS trouble codes will point you in the right direction, but the danger in believing ANY scanned data is that you can only read what the control or PCM thinks it is seeing. Without a comprehensive test of the device, you can never really know with certainty if the device has actually failed or if it is only a connection issue.

A really prime example of this is in later PCM oxygen sensor analysis. The PCM will choose to ignore the actual input signal and plug in it's own O² data so it can run, and that's ALL you'll read on a scan.

I this instance, the fact that there is reported noise from that hub may indicate wear and an inconsistent gap (and thus, signal) as a result. I'm thinking that once your fingers get warmed up, you'll be looking at that hub more closely.