400 sb problem

i just recently got a 400 small block that needed a head gasket. i changed the head gasket and put the motor back together and i went to start it to set the valves and it wouldnt roll over fast enough so i thought it was my starter so i went to the local autoparts store and baught a new one bolted it on and still the same still wont roll over fast enough, I took the plugs out and it rolled over a little bit faster but not a hole lot faster. could anyone give me some ideas to try to get this running im starting to go banannas any help would be greatly appreciated

thanks

check your push rods to make sure they are straight and true,and not binding on anything

Have you tried to manually inject some lube through the cylinder holes? Does the engine produce any oil pressure while cranking? Fresh/fully charged battery? Good battery and ground connections? Adequate cable size?

im not sure if the oil pump is pumping up and oil i had a oiler tool in there and it just seem to be spraying oil all over the shafte of the tool im not really sure i m not an engine builder i just know little stuff like timing and taking stuff apart and putting it back together. so maybe i should crank the motor over manually and put oil in the cylinders?. oh yeah the motor is on an engine stand would it be because it should be in my truck to be grounded. like its starting to piss me off sorry about the lang but the starter howls and the ingauger get stuck in the fly wheel. im not sure i have to go to work atm ill get back to this tonight

Hello All,

I'm a new member here and I just purchased a '84 Caprice wagon in really good condition. It has a stock 305 cid with 114K and 4bbl carb. I want to modify my exhaust to dual exhaust, but not sure how it will be done. I've seen exhaust systems where other ran both pipes along the same side, but I heard that makes teh engine run crappy due to the unequal lengths of the exhaust. I also heard of having the exhaust pipe on the side where the transmission's crossmember isn't forgiving go under that member but change the diameter of the pipe but pinching it but increase it's width.

Suggestion on the best method.

I also would like to know which muffler should I go with....stock or thrush turbo? (don't want much noise considering this is my family car---Me, wife, and four children <11, 8, 4, 8 months>)

Thanks in advance.

Using a shaft to run the oil pump really doesn't do much if the distributor oil passage is not closed. The groove cast in the lower end of the distributor housing is actually the main oil passage from the rear vertical oil gallery to the rest of the engine. An old distribitor housing with the gear removed makes for a really good primer.

http://72.19.213.157/files/SBCOiling.gif


http://72.19.213.157/files/Distributor.gif

change compression with different headgasket size?

Is your timing too far advanced? You could have also dropped the distributor back in a tooth off which is easy to do. Also check the pushrods like joe68 suggested. Just for the heck of it, what is your negative jumper cable connected to?

Bob

In your case with a blown head gasket, there could have been a chance that the rings on those cylinders could have been fried. in that case you will have to tear the whole engine apart to fix your problem. but to ajust your valves you should not have to have the engine turning over fast you should just have to have the valve closed to adjust it.