93 Lesabre C Charging Prob.

This is my first Buick,
93 Lesabre Custom/90Th , 3.8L SFI
First thing, will the car run w/o battery connected? Second, does it have two
positive cables?(looks like someone did some rewiring)
Will post more about my prob after someone answers thease two ?'s.
Thanks, KS

This is my first Buick,
93 Lesabre Custom/90Th , 3.8L SFI
First thing, will the car run w/o battery connected? Second, does it have two
positive cables?(looks like someone did some rewiring)
Will post more about my prob after someone answers thease two ?'s.
Thanks, KS


yes it has 2 cables running to pos side so that is correct...i wouldn't take cables off while car is running you can cause some damage..but if it runs with cable off.. alt. is working...i had 1 guy his battery kept running down i found the problem they had so much junk in clove box the light was staying on and running down battery.....but really sounds like alt. good luck....

SCRAPPER..........

i might add those are good motors 3.8 or 3800 i had 275000 mles on mine untl my brother in law blew it up over something stupid..i was going for 300.000.
but anyway good luc to you...

if it runs with cable off.. alt. is working...but really sounds like alt. good luck....

SCRAPPER..........[/quote]

When I pull neg cable, bla! I test volts at idle 11.58, car off 12.05(at batt)
Taking alt back today, going to make them test this one! The wiring has been
changed(so it looks). The thing is when I turn the key to the on pos. no lights on the dash! Alt, Eng, ect, light should come on, right?
Any help would be great.
Thanks, KS

Had alt. tested, low amps(22.5) but volts were at 13.5V. It also said something about the diode. Does the ECM control the output of the alt.?
They will have a new alt. in today. Will install and test again.
But, i have read some posts and some say bad ECM can do all kinds of stuff.
(hog amp and volt)

thanks kms

it kinda does in the long run but your diodes in your alt..so after you get your new alt your good to go...good luck....


SCRAPPER......

Many people think alternators are designed to charge batteries, but this is not the case, they are simply designed to maintain a fully charged battery. If your battery voltage falls to 12.2V or a specific gravity of 1.190, the battery is only 50% charged! NEVER install a new or rebuilt alternator into a car with a discharged battery. Also, if your battery becomes discharged while in the car, charge it with an external charger, do not rely on the alternator to charge the battery! A fully charged battery will measure 12.7V or specific gravity of 1.265. If you do not own a battery charger, take the battery to someone who can charge it for you!

Since these CS-series regulators are now essentially an electronic computer chip, be sure to disconnect the battery before servicing and NEVER remove the battery cable when the engine is running. This is no longer a viable way to test alternator output! If you do this, you may destroy the regulator’s computer chip. You must really begin to think of these CS alternators as computers, and treat them with the respect that you might a laptop computer.

The PCM/ECM does not control alternator output, (that is the job of the regulator) however, most do have an input to monitor alternator loading and engine loading, and can increase/decrease engine speed accordingly.

Use the following procedure when removing and replacing CS-Series Alternators:

Removing CS-Series Alternators:
Always disconnect the Negative Battery Cable before doing anything
Disconnect the PLI/FS voltage regulator connector before disconnecting the BAT terminal
Disconnect the BAT terminal last
The alternator is now ready to be removed

Installing CS-Series Alternators:
Always disconnect the Negative Battery Cable before doing anything!
Install and secure the alternator with the mounting hardware
Attach the BAT terminal before connecting the PLI/FS voltage regulator connector
Attach the PLI/FS voltage regulator connector
Insure belts are tensioned properly and there is no interference with the alternators terminals
You are now ready to connect the Negative Battery Cable.

Hot z .. SUPER POST.. Expert, EXPERT advice/info.. (had to say it twice).... I have used those numbers for years as the digital voltmeters were just comming on the market. I was draining fishing boat trolling motor batteries and charging batteries from solar panels using those numbers . Back then, Kmart was giving away their turned in batteries simply because the customer was declaring them unfaithful. It kept me in stock with great batteries untill the policy changed.

You the man!

Just to note: A lead acid battery can be a bit supercharged. I would guess to be somewhat a capacitance effect exceeding the 12.7 but a bit of a drain such as turning on a headlight or something for a moment brings it back to normal.




Bass

PLI/FS voltage regulator connector? To where and what do these two wires connect to? These two wires seem to be my problem. Now when tested, the alt. gives differing resaults. One test will show 13.01v, 22.7a and the next says 12.6v, 85.4a. Have tested main batt line off back of alt. and it is good.
I have no idea what is going on with this car! As a side note, the ABS, Trac control, gas gauge, warning lights(on the dash), do not work!
This car is driving me nuts, not down the road!!!

ok you changed alt??? you can still get another bad 1 go to car quest or a nappa and get a good 1...and make sure you got good ground even from body to neg.and the 1 running to your alt. bracket if thats where they got it grounded to or theres something staying on in car or a short....good luck..


SCRAPPER

Found it! Itwas a wire gone bad, thanks for the help!!!!!!!!!!!