Battery Drains

http://cdn5.tribalfusion.com/media/37536.gif (http://a.tribalfusion.com/l.click?clickID=NOJLILJDNSSNFGHXITPQMNTSQJCROHGWYH SVIINEBOOGMKHEIBYNXCWLIUDOMHHJNKKJBZ&clickURL=http%3a%2f%2fa%2etribalfusion%2ecom) http://a.tribalfusion.com/i.ad?site=AutomotiveForumscom&adSpace=CustomCampaign&size=300x250&requestID=1416317259 (http://a.tribalfusion.com/i.click?site=AutomotiveForumscom&adSpace=CustomCampaign&size=300x250&requestID=1416317259)My 65 impala keeps draining the battery. At first though it was the alternator. Replaced alternator and problem continues. The generator light is on when you crank the car and after awhile it drains the battery. What's the problem. What should i check next. Oh, i also swapped batteries.

Get an ammeter ( or test lite) on the battery terminal to positive cable in series start removing fuses till the ammeter falls off and that is the circuit or component, don't forget to include the relays and the voltage reg also.

Yup, it could be the voltage regulator, which is a separate piece on the older cars. Its a good practice to change the voltage regulator when you change the alternator, they used to be real cheap too. Just make sure the battery is unhooked when you change it.

Bob

Thanks guys for the info. Been busy lately but hopefully can try the suggestions tomorrow.

OK, I've checked all the fuses and nothing is pulling from the battery. The battery does not run down overnight, or even a few days. Only when your driving or just letting the car run.

OK, I've checked all the fuses and nothing is pulling from the battery. The battery does not run down overnight, or even a few days. Only when your driving or just letting the car run.

I would then suggest alternator and / or regulator - as was mentioned previously, change both at the same time. The regulator is a rectangular metal box, about 2" x 2.5", with a 3-bolt flange, and a 4-wire connector on the bottom. Some have a single wire on the side in addition to the 4-wire connector. It is usually in the area of the driver's side headlights, on the radiator support but MAY be in another location.

It was the regulator. With myself being unexperienced with auto repair, i thought that box had something to do with the headlights. Thanks for all the help.

besure to check your ground on your reg. too.65 needed to be ground in many location.

Ok guys i know your probably tired of me, but now i have no choice but to get the car fixed because i have totaled my daily driver camaro. After replacing alternator and regulator i continue to have same problem when car running. If i remove the ground wire for the regulator the ligt goes off but i know it's not hooked up right. I've tried tracing down any loose or broken wires with nothing being found. I'm completely lost now and have no clue what to try now.

as I stated in another thread, the regulator needs to be grounded in order to work. Generally, this is accomplished by bolting it to the proper mounting location (again, usually the radiator support). You can also run a ground wire from the radiator support directly to the engine block or intake manifold to ensure the radiator support itself is properly grounded.

Also, check all body grounds - this includes headlight grounds etc. Make certain there is no chafing on the wires that go to the regulator or from the alternator.

Don't overlook the ground strap at the back of the engine to the firewall. Those sometimes corrode and break. Otherwise you're probably best to have it looked at by a pro, it should be something simple and he can isolate it quickly.

Bob

you mention that it only when car is running,you either have a direct short,or you are not charging the battery. a quick test i do is start car remove battery cable from battery and see if the car continue to run. if car stay running car is charging, if car die right away you are not. for you i would do this with two people one to turn off car if car remain running so you can put the cable back on. also behind the battery and by headlight is a black terminals that sometimes get corred with junk ans it need to be clean. to see if it a short, go to fuse box and remove the cable going to the back lights. see if this help. do not unplug to many at once, that will just confuse you, one items at a time.
make sure you check that ground strap on the back of motor like bob mention.

The old "take off the negative battery cable while the engine is running" is the fail safe test for older cars to see if they're charging. I think that you may have simply got a bum regulator from the parts store, or fried the alternator somehow.

Places like Sears, Pep Boys can do you a diagnostic check for very little money. They used to be free, no idea what they go for now. If they have someone who knows how to do it, they can isolate the alternator and regulator and give you a straight answer.

Have you swapped in a "known to be good" battery and used it for a few days? You could have a bad battery too.

Bob

bob right, that test is for the older cars only,anything with a computor you should not do. around where i live the sears and pep boys would laugh if i ask them to check on a scope. these kids have no ideas what to do when they are confronted with a older problems like this. you need a somebody in this hobby or has been in the busness a long time.

Yeah, never try that test on a computer car, only as a rock bottom last resort if you are STUCK somewhere and have to make a snap diagnosis.

I go back a few years fixing cars for a living and checked out many an older car's charging system. We had this nifty unit made by Sun, it was called the VAT28, voltage and amp testing or something like that. It came on a cart, could be wheeled around and was easy to use. All sorts of problems could be diagnosed in the charging system, it also did a starter load test.

Bob

i hear ya, many years ago i work on these cars for a long time and kept it a hobby since,i did some years ago found a ac delco scope in a garage sale and it been working ever since.it will test starter alt. cyl. balance and timing rpm and vacum also points and short in electrical and carb adjustment are a snap with it. i hope it keep working for long time to come, i am sure i can't get any body to fix it now cause of it age.