Fixing Oil Leaks On 96 4 Cyl Camry

I posted a similar thread a while back, but finally got under the car to see where the oil is leaking. The main leak was coming from the front passenger side edge of the oil pan. I tried tightening the bolts, but the leak/drip was still there. I bought a new oil pan gasket and removed the oil pan this past wknd, cleaned/scraped the old RTV sealant and wiped both surfaces clean. Then, I put a thin coat of RTV sealant on the pan mounting surface and put on the gasket, lining up the holes. Next, I applied a thin coat of RTV on the other side of the gasket before reinstalling it. I tightened all the bolts to the correct torque and put oil in the car. After I made sure there was oil in the pan, I started the car up and after 20 secs, the exact same leak was there!

I shut the car off and jacked it back up. Because the new oil is clean/clear, it made it really difficult to see if the leak/drip was still coming from the same front edge of the pan, or if the leak was orginating from higher up around the timing cover. I snugged down the 10mm bolts I could get to near the lower timing cover and (I believe) the oil pump. But the leak was still there. At this point I am going to take it to the shop and let them figure out if the pan is still leaking or if the leak is coming from somewhere else and running down to that same edge of the oil pan.

Has anyone experienced this? After 3 hours of removing the pan, cleaning it and reinstalling it only to have the same leak occur is really a PITA. Did I miss something? I was told that the valve cover rear and distributor are leaking a little, but if that were the case, wouldn't it take longer than 20 secs from startup for the oil to run down to the pan edge? If anyone knows what else I can check before heading to the shop that would be great. If I have to remove the pan again and apply some more RTV to the pan gasket on that edge I will, but I just don't want to remove that pan unless that is the culprit.

Thanks and Happy New Year everyone!!

Ted, Chicago

Yes, been there with a transmission pan a while back. Had to redo it all. PITA is putting it mildly. I apparently over torqued the bolts and trashed the cheap cork gasket that came with the kit.

A few things. First, did you make sure the pan wasn't distorted near the bolt holes and the mating surface on the engine didn't have cracks or gouges? You can check for distortion using a ruler or set the pan on a known flat table and look for light under the pan. You can pound out any distortion with a block of wood and a hammer. Don't over do it or you'll be there all day. Second, applying sealant to both sides of the gasket was overkill. Just need to apply it to the oil pan flange. Using too much sealant can allow it to squeeze out and get sucked into an oil channel and clog it. Third, when you torque the bolts start in the middle and work your way outward criss-crossing across the pan. Forth, try letting the sealant setup at least a few hours before putting oil in it.

If you're not absolutely sure where a leak is coming from buy a leak detect kit. It uses an altraviolet die and comes with the necessary light and glasses. Similar to what is used on A/C systems. Takes a lot of the work and guessing out of the process. Saw a guy use one once and swore the next time I had a leak I'd be getting one. Cheers.

This might help: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/e5/4e/0900823d8013e54e.jsp

camry motors always leak from the oil pump housing to block seal.you will need to disassemble the timing belt . while you are at it you should replace the cam and crankshaft seals along with the waterpump and anti-freeze.this is probably better left to a pro. good luck

The valve cover gasket is an easy job. Replace it and see if if fixes the problem.

I agree with what pacauto said, but doing the fast, cheap, and easy possibility first is my recommendation. If you can somehow rule out the valve cover gasket, then don't bother replacing it.

Thanks everyone who posted suggestions. The more I think of it, the leak began after the timing belt and all teh fron tseal were replaced. I just assumed that the oil pan was leaking now because the oil leaks in the front were now fixed and the rest of the gaskets were old and seeping. But that makes sense that if the oil pump housing was not put in with either RTV or a new gasket that it would start to leak and only get worse.

I am going to take the car back to the same shop and have them check it out and repair it.

Will keep you posted.

Ted, Chicago

Hi pacauto -- you guessed correctly -- it turned out to be the o-ring seal inside the oil pump housing. I had the same shop that replaced the timing belt do this job and when they put the new seal in, after 30 mins of idling, no leak. My oil pan seal and trans seals were fine.

Thanks to everyone who assisted. I do have a factory alarm question I will create a new post for. I will entitle it "1996 Camry Factory Alarm Won't Unlock Doors"

I posted a similar thread a while back, but finally got under the car to see where the oil is leaking. The main leak was coming from the front passenger side edge of the oil pan. I tried tightening the bolts, but the leak/drip was still there. I bought a new oil pan gasket and removed the oil pan this past wknd, cleaned/scraped the old RTV sealant and wiped both surfaces clean. Then, I put a thin coat of RTV sealant on the pan mounting surface and put on the gasket, lining up the holes. Next, I applied a thin coat of RTV on the other side of the gasket before reinstalling it. I tightened all the bolts to the correct torque and put oil in the car. After I made sure there was oil in the pan, I started the car up and after 20 secs, the exact same leak was there!

I shut the car off and jacked it back up. Because the new oil is clean/clear, it made it really difficult to see if the leak/drip was still coming from the same front edge of the pan, or if the leak was orginating from higher up around the timing cover. I snugged down the 10mm bolts I could get to near the lower timing cover and (I believe) the oil pump. But the leak was still there. At this point I am going to take it to the shop and let them figure out if the pan is still leaking or if the leak is coming from somewhere else and running down to that same edge of the oil pan.

Has anyone experienced this? After 3 hours of removing the pan, cleaning it and reinstalling it only to have the same leak occur is really a PITA. Did I miss something? I was told that the valve cover rear and distributor are leaking a little, but if that were the case, wouldn't it take longer than 20 secs from startup for the oil to run down to the pan edge? If anyone knows what else I can check before heading to the shop that would be great. If I have to remove the pan again and apply some more RTV to the pan gasket on that edge I will, but I just don't want to remove that pan unless that is the culprit.

Thanks and Happy New Year everyone!!

Ted, Chicago


Ted,

Perhaps you didn't apply enough sealant to really give it a good seal. I found this out from an old dealership that I stopped going to because they kept telling me that I had a leak and found out that they weren't using ANY sealant.:banghead: :eek: After giving them good bucks:2cents: to keep fixing it they would then use a new gasket with sealant to finallt button it up. Make sure your using enough sealant and make sure it's given time to set-up.

rimfire,22