Part list for D16Z6 Swap

I no your all tired of reading this, but I really need to finish my parts list so I can get the stuff I need.

D16Z6 Motor
5 Speed D Serious Cable Tranny
Wiring Harness
-----------------

I no I need half axels and an ECU, but Im not sure what ECU to get or what half axels to get, Im also not sure what motor mounts to use. Someone told me to get a P28 Ecu so it would active the VTec, but Im not really sure.

If anyone can help me, then I would be very thankful.

I no your all tired of reading this, but I really need to finish my parts list so I can get the stuff I need.

D16Z6 Motor
5 Speed D Serious Cable Tranny
Wiring Harness
-----------------

I no I need half axels and an ECU, but Im not sure what ECU to get or what half axels to get, Im also not sure what motor mounts to use. Someone told me to get a P28 Ecu so it would active the VTec, but Im not really sure.

If anyone can help me, then I would be very thankful.


Dx/Si axles
P28 ecu will work
You need to convert your harness to obd-1
Stock d-series mounts
stock shift linkage

Dx/Si axles
P28 ecu will work
You need to convert your harness to obd-1
Stock d-series mounts
stock shift linkage

I have an extra set of DX half axels, u say that will work? How do I convert my harness to obd-1? I was told I can leave it obd0. Thats why I would need the P28 ECU.

Or was it to leave it obd0 I would need to replace the disributor, and run an MSD rpm switch to the Vtec?

I have an extra set of DX half axels, u say that will work? How do I convert my harness to obd-1? I was told I can leave it obd0. Thats why I would need the P28 ECU.

Or was it to leave it obd0 I would need to replace the disributor, and run an MSD rpm switch to the Vtec?

If you are using a dx/si trans then dx axles will work fine. You also need to make sure that you have dx/si hubs.

You can buy a conversion harness and do the wiring yourself or you can send your engine harness to bambam or rywire and have them do the conversion for you (i recommend this).

If you leave it obd-0 then your gonna have to run an si dizzy. The si dizzy doesn't bolt up 100% to the Z6 head, only 2 out of three bolts actually fit.

A p28 ecu is obd-1 so your definitely gonna have to convert to obd-1 to run it. If i were you, trying to run a Z6, i would convert to obd-1.

If you are using a dx/si trans then dx axles will work fine. You also need to make sure that you have dx/si hubs.

You can buy a conversion harness and do the wiring yourself or you can send your engine harness to bambam or rywire and have them do the conversion for you (i recommend this).
My car is a DX, so can I use my hubs? And how much would it cost to send out my harness to have the conversion done?

Also I no this is a P28 ECU, but would you recommend gettting this. Or if I get this would I still need to have my harness converted?

http://www.j-k-tuning.com/chipped-obd0obd1-conversion-harness-p-308.html

That's overkill for a stock engine, you only need a chipped ecu if you're adding performance mods (I'm not talking about intake, exhaust or header either).
Here's the link for Rywire.com's harness. You'll also need to do the mpfi conversion since you have a dx: http://rywire.com/store/obd0-obd1-conversion-harness-p-37.html?osCsid=8e3dd25434dc629ead07833d4d00b653
Here's a link to bambam89lx's site. I'm sure he can tell you more about his products, just PM him; he's a member of this site: http://hybrid-creations.com/crxproducts.htm

i highly recommend rywire i had ryan do my obd0 to obd1 harness, it was all plug and play, try to get the z6 engine harness to send to him along with the dx harness. i would also get an o2 sensor from him too its cheaper than the parts store. cost of the harness was $300

and you are going to need an Si throttle cable, at the dealership it isnt that much.

That's overkill for a stock engine, you only need a chipped ecu if you're adding performance mods (I'm not talking about intake, exhaust or header either).
Here's the link for Rywire.com's harness. You'll also need to do the mpfi conversion since you have a dx: http://rywire.com/store/obd0-obd1-conversion-harness-p-37.html?osCsid=8e3dd25434dc629ead07833d4d00b653
Here's a link to bambam89lx's site. I'm sure he can tell you more about his products, just PM him; he's a member of this site: http://hybrid-creations.com/crxproducts.htm

If the Ecu is over kill then what ECU would I need? Also with the wiring harness, the first site u gave me *rywire* has the harness I need for 300 bucks. The second site you gave me *bambam89lx* has a harness for 119 bucks. Whats the diffrence? Also how hard is it to make a harness myself?

you can get a PR3 B16 ECU for about $100 that stays OBD0 and you can use a stock HF/Si disty and all you would have to do is run the wires for vtec.

you can get a PR3 B16 ECU for about $100 that stays OBD0 and you can use a stock HF/Si disty and all you would have to do is run the wires for vtec.
How hard would that be? And where can I find info on it?

Also If I decide to go with eather one of the harness's then can I use this ECU? http://www.j-k-tuning.com/chipped-spec-p-292.html on the site it says it will run with the motor I have.

If the Ecu is over kill then what ECU would I need? Also with the wiring harness, the first site u gave me *rywire* has the harness I need for 300 bucks. The second site you gave me *bambam89lx* has a harness for 119 bucks. Whats the diffrence? Also how hard is it to make a harness myself?
Damn I'm sorry man, those are 2 completely different things. The first 1 was just to be bale to plug in an OBD1 ecu and the other was for the swap. I'm going to do the smart thing and stay out of this discussion from now on, cause now I'm confused.

But that ecu is overkill because it's chipped. You don't need a chipped ecu, you just need a stock one. So try and find a stock P28.

If the Ecu is over kill then what ECU would I need? Also with the wiring harness, the first site u gave me *rywire* has the harness I need for 300 bucks. The second site you gave me *bambam89lx* has a harness for 119 bucks. Whats the diffrence? Also how hard is it to make a harness myself?


for $300 u get the jumper harness for the ecu, complete repined engine harness/ dpfi to mpfi/ vtec harness

for $300 u get the jumper harness for the ecu, complete repined engine harness/ dpfi to mpfi/ vtec harness

Dosnt the one from bambam89lx have that also?

88-91 Civic/CRX DX/STD DPFI to MFPI VTEC - bambam91lx

88-91 CRX/Civic DX/STD to d16z6/d15b (obd1 VTEC) - Rywire

Besides it saying obd1, is there really a diff? Or are they both the same?

i dont know what his all includes, i know what i got from rywire cause im runnin it in my car

i dont know what his all includes, i know what i got from rywire cause im runnin it in my car
So if I get the one from rywire what all would I need to finish up to run it in my car? Also where would I remove the wiring harness? (I have a spar car Im taking the harness from) Do I have to take it from behind the dash? If not which one's do I remove from the motor? *pictures would be helpful*

*Part List*
D16Z6 Motor
5 Speed Dx Cable Tranny
P28 ECU
Half Axels, Hubs
Shifter Linkage
Stock Motor Mounts
*Undecided On Wiring Harness*

engine harness from the dx
engine harness from the d16z6

So if I get the one from rywire what all would I need to finish up to run it in my car? Also where would I remove the wiring harness? (I have a spar car Im taking the harness from) Do I have to take it from behind the dash? If not which one's do I remove from the motor? *pictures would be helpful*

*Part List*
D16Z6 Motor
5 Speed Dx Cable Tranny
P28 ECU
Half Axels, Hubs
Shifter Linkage
Stock Motor Mounts
*Undecided On Wiring Harness*

I sell the same products as Ryan and Peter over at Rywire. The only difference is my pricing...it's a hell of alot cheaper.
I also can offer you better customer service, as I am always on here. Read my mission statement. My harnesses are 100% guaranteed to work, everytime. Quality is top notch. I also sell the conversion harnesses for cheaper than Rywire. I have a wholesale account so I can pass the savings right on to you. Although I might not make much, if anything, off of a sale, I am happy to be building a customer base.

Hit me up if you have ANY questions regarding your project. What you want to do is:
1. Send me (or Rywire) your stock engine harness as well as ANY OBD1 honda/acura engine harness.
2. It will then get shipped back to you (1-2 days upon receiving it) converted to run an OBD1 motor using Saturated (OBD1 style) injectors and an OBD1 distributor.
3. You will then need to purchase a P28 ecu which is the factory ecu for all 92-95 honda civic ex/si's.
4. Next, you will need to purchase an OBD0 to OBD1 conversion harness. This is to allow you to run an OBD1 style ecu on an OBD0 interior harness.

5. There is one final step. When you convert to OBD1 vtec from DPFI, there are a few wires that must be run into the cabin through your vehicles firewall. Neither me, nor Rywire can physically do this (unless of course you pay for a plane ticket to come out there). It is not difficult at all. It involves depinning and repinning (relocating) a few key wires into your factory ecu plugs. This is necessary and can't be accomplished any other way. Rywire will tell you the same.
However, I couldn't have made this any more simple for you. I include detailed directions w/ pictures that even a monkey can understand. It's all dumbified so that a person with very little knowledge on the matter can still accomplish it. Promise.

If you have any further questions on your project or wiring questions in general, feel free to PM me or email me at:
[email protected]

You can also find my phone number on my website if you have any questions you want to discuss in detail, or if you'd like to learn anything.

-Bambam

Also, for your build, you will use ALL of your stock stuff including transmission, clutch, flywheel, axels, hubs, starter, engine mounts, shift linkage, etc.

To run a D16Z6 in your car, you will ONLY need the D16Z6 head/block, intake manifold, and alternator. There are a few other possible part combinations, but this well be the easiest/simplest.
The distributor and alternator that you use will depend on if you want to stay OBD0 or convert to OBD1.

Also, for your build, you will use ALL of your stock stuff including transmission, clutch, flywheel, axels, hubs, starter, engine mounts, shift linkage, etc.

To run a D16Z6 in your car, you will ONLY need the D16Z6 head/block, intake manifold, and alternator. There are a few other possible part combinations, but this well be the easiest/simplest.
The distributor and alternator that you use will depend on if you want to stay OBD0 or convert to OBD1.
Im getting the whole motor, which includes the distributor and alternator and all the other parts need to run the motor. Like I said before I want to go over to OBD1. So I would just leave all those parts on the motor, just drop the motor in, bolt everything up, plug everything in and thats it.

*EDIT*

I just read bambams thread on building that motor, and he said he keeps it OBD0, what really is the diff? What If I want to keep my motor OBD0 what would need to be done. And for the most part, which is really better to run with my D16Z6 motor? OBD1 or OBD0? If you say OBD1 then I will run OBD1. I want to run my motor at its best, so if OBD1 will do that, then thats what I want to do.

**EDIT**

I forgot to mention that my one friend just gave me a stock turbo off a 91 Eagle Talon, since thats also a JDM Motor, would it bolt up to my D16Z6 if I got the intake manifold and the other stuff?

Im getting the whole motor, which includes the distributor and alternator and all the other parts need to run the motor. Like I said before I want to go over to OBD1. So I would just leave all those parts on the motor, just drop the motor in, bolt everything up, plug everything in and thats it.

*EDIT*

I just read bambams thread on building that motor, and he said he keeps it OBD0, what really is the diff? What If I want to keep my motor OBD0 what would need to be done. And for the most part, which is really better to run with my D16Z6 motor? OBD1 or OBD0? If you say OBD1 then I will run OBD1. I want to run my motor at its best, so if OBD1 will do that, then thats what I want to do.

**EDIT**

I forgot to mention that my one friend just gave me a stock turbo off a 91 Eagle Talon, since thats also a JDM Motor, would it bolt up to my D16Z6 if I got the intake manifold and the other stuff?

Where did I say to keep your car OBD0? You'd be better off converting to OBD1, IF you don't have experience with OBD0 tuning software and don't have access to a PR3.

As for the turbo, just because it came on a japanese vehicle doesn't make one difference. Actually, they didn't have Eagle talon's in Japan. That's an american made vehicle.
Anyway, you'd need a custom exhaust manifold, and then just custom piping/intercooler setup running to your intake manifold. I'm not going to go too far into detail on that, because there are thousands of threads on the matter already.

ive read b4..and i dont remember detail but i did have a z6 head on a a6 block b4 running ob0 and i wasnt getting full potential out of my head..like timing spark/fuel..if u plan to run a full z6 u will get full potential with a odb1 system

ive read b4..and i dont remember detail but i did have a z6 head on a a6 block b4 running ob0 and i wasnt getting full potential out of my head..like timing spark/fuel..if u plan to run a full z6 u will get full potential with a odb1 system
Actually, you could easily keep your ca OBD0. Remember, the only difference between OBD0 and OBD1 is the stock 02 sensor. Of course, the P28 already has the correct maps for a D16z6 though.
To stay OBD0, you'd need a chipped PR3, datalogging cable, wideband 02, and to download some sort of OBD0 software from pgmfi.org, as well as have some sort of laptop to hook up to your ECU. My favorite is software is BRE.
I did this with my crx. It's a great option because once you do that, there's NO need to swap ecu's ever again, no matter what engine you run (except for Kseries). Just tune and go.

Actually, you could easily keep your ca OBD0. Remember, the only difference between OBD0 and OBD1 is the stock 02 sensor. Of course, the P28 already has the correct maps for a D16z6 though.
To stay OBD0, you'd need a chipped PR3, datalogging cable, wideband 02, and to download some sort of OBD0 software from pgmfi.org, as well as have some sort of laptop to hook up to your ECU. My favorite is software is BRE.
I did this with my crx. It's a great option because once you do that, there's NO need to swap ecu's ever again, no matter what engine you run (except for Kseries). Just tune and go.

Ok, while I'll just do the extra work and make it OBD1. Also I think my ecu took a dump, so I got one out of a 91 LX, will that work in my car untill I do the swap? Everything in the LX was the same as in mine (other then the extra feathers)

Ok, while I'll just do the extra work and make it OBD1. Also I think my ecu took a dump, so I got one out of a 91 LX, will that work in my car untill I do the swap? Everything in the LX was the same as in mine (other then the extra feathers)

If I can assist you with what you need, be sure to contact me for the BEST prices on the net.
As for the new ecu you've picked up, it should work as long as it is in working condition and it came from a DPFI car.
Your stock ecu should have said "PM5" on it. The new ecu you've pilfered from the 91 LX should have the same code as long as it was never swapped.

If I can assist you with what you need, be sure to contact me for the BEST prices on the net.
As for the new ecu you've picked up, it should work as long as it is in working condition and it came from a DPFI car.
Your stock ecu should have said "PM5" on it. The new ecu you've pilfered from the 91 LX should have the same code as long as it was never swapped.
Yup it has PM5, and I will be placing an order with u bambam, but I need to finish saving up for my stuff. I will be placing an order with u in the next 2 months. Hopefully sooner.

*EDIT*
I just replaced my ECU and my car is still acting up. What it dose it starts up no problem. I'll let it run for 5 mins, shut it off. Go to start it again, and it wont start. Then it has to sit for like 10 mins before it starts again. What can the problem be? My fuel pump?

Your main relay could be the culprit. It's located under the dash next to the change tray. If you remove the change tray you'll see it better. Search for "main relay" in this forum and you'll find a picture of what it looks like. This relay controls the fuel pump and is known to not kick on especially in hot weather or on short trips.

Oh yeah, and Bambam is the man and can hook you up with whatever you need.

Your main relay could be the culprit. It's located under the dash next to the change tray. If you remove the change tray you'll see it better. Search for "main relay" in this forum and you'll find a picture of what it looks like. This relay controls the fuel pump and is known to not kick on especially in hot weather or on short trips.

Oh yeah, and Bambam is the man and can hook you up with whatever you need.

Thx Turtle :thumbsup:
As for the main relay, it's a common problem on these cars. Those are clear symptoms of a faulty main relay. The older relays have solder problems. Just grab one from ANY 88-91 civic/crx.

Yup it has PM5, and I will be placing an order with u bambam, but I need to finish saving up for my stuff. I will be placing an order with u in the next 2 months. Hopefully sooner.

*EDIT*
I just replaced my ECU and my car is still acting up. What it dose it starts up no problem. I'll let it run for 5 mins, shut it off. Go to start it again, and it wont start. Then it has to sit for like 10 mins before it starts again. What can the problem be? My fuel pump?

Don't forget, although highly unlikely, if you find a cheaper price, to let me know. No questions asked, I will match it.

Don't forget, although highly unlikely, if you find a cheaper price, to let me know. No questions asked, I will match it.
Thanks bambam, like I said just give me like 2 months and I will be placing my order with u, I will also need the OBD0 - OBD1 harness also.

Also how would I unhook my harness? Where would I unhook it at?

*EDIT*

Just found this on ebay, so Im going to save up for this also.

http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/lenovm/P1020476.jpg (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Complete-Bolt-On-Honda-Civic-D-Series-D16-Turbo-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ015QQitem Z250069668731QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW)

That looks like an xspower or ssautochrome turbo kit. Steer away from those as they include cheap parts. If you're going to go the turbo route, peace together your kit on piece at a time. Ebay is fine, just look out for the good stuff and it shouldn't cost you more than $1500.

As for your harness, it unhooks in the passenger and driver side of the rear engine bay. Then, it just gets unhooked from the engine. There's about 20 or so connectors that attach to the engine itself. It's a hell of alot easier to remove with the engine removed.

i have the p28 computer and jumpers from obd0 to obd1 i am willing to sell for 250 dollars

i have the p28 computer and jumpers from obd0 to obd1 i am willing to sell for 250 dollars
In only going to need the P28 since Im also going to be getting a harness off of bambam.

*EDIT*

After doing MUCH reading, Im going to build my own kit for around 600 - 700 bucks, I hope I can get a decent one for that price. Like I said before I have a stock turbo (T-25 I Think) off a 91 Talon TSI.

i have the p28 computer and jumpers from obd0 to obd1 i am willing to sell for 250 dollars

wayyy too much.

After looking at the turbo it says its a TDO5H. Its also smaller then the T-25 Turbo. I no not alot of ppl proubly no this. But will this turbo work? Or should I just go with the T-25?