2000 Grand Prix Stalls
Blauryn8
12-30-2006, 10:31 AM
We have a 2000 Grand Prix. In the spring of 2006 the trac light would come. This happened for a period of time then days, weeks or months later the trac light would come on and the tac would go to 0. Then both of these would happen and the car would stall.
It will happen at different times (you can be on the highway going 60 and it will just stall or you can be accelerating from a red light and it will stall).
We had a new computer put in which cost $350 including the inital time we took it and they hooked car up to analyzer which cost $30.
Thursday we had a new ignition mudule installed which cost $200.
We still have the problem:banghead: .
Now the garage has the car and is considering the crank shaft sensor:shakehead .
?Do we keep putting money in to a car which no one (dealer or garage) seems to be able to fix (at this point it seems to be process of elimination which is costing of money) OR do we unload it and buy a new one (which we really don't want to do nor can we afford).
We love the car but this is getting a bit irritating and costly not to mention dangerous. What if we get rearended or even worse what if a semi is behind us on the highway and it stalls. We've been dealing with this since the spring of 06. To make matters worse we purchased an extended warranty for $1300 which the company went bankrupt so all these repairs are costing us in addition to the warranty money we lost:frown:. Any suggestions :2cents: would be greatly appreciated:p .
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/statusicon/user_online.gif
It will happen at different times (you can be on the highway going 60 and it will just stall or you can be accelerating from a red light and it will stall).
We had a new computer put in which cost $350 including the inital time we took it and they hooked car up to analyzer which cost $30.
Thursday we had a new ignition mudule installed which cost $200.
We still have the problem:banghead: .
Now the garage has the car and is considering the crank shaft sensor:shakehead .
?Do we keep putting money in to a car which no one (dealer or garage) seems to be able to fix (at this point it seems to be process of elimination which is costing of money) OR do we unload it and buy a new one (which we really don't want to do nor can we afford).
We love the car but this is getting a bit irritating and costly not to mention dangerous. What if we get rearended or even worse what if a semi is behind us on the highway and it stalls. We've been dealing with this since the spring of 06. To make matters worse we purchased an extended warranty for $1300 which the company went bankrupt so all these repairs are costing us in addition to the warranty money we lost:frown:. Any suggestions :2cents: would be greatly appreciated:p .
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/statusicon/user_online.gif
MT-2500
12-30-2006, 10:42 AM
We have a 2000 Grand Prix. In the spring of 2006 the trac light would come. This happened for a period of time then days, weeks or months later the trac light would come on and the tac would go to 0. Then both of these would happen and the car would stall.
It will happen at different times (you can be on the highway going 60 and it will just stall or you can be accelerating from a red light and it will stall).
We had a new computer put in which cost $350 including the inital time we took it and they hooked car up to analyzer which cost $30.
Thursday we had a new ignition mudule installed which cost $200.
We still have the problem:banghead: .
Now the garage has the car and is considering the crank shaft sensor:shakehead .
?Do we keep putting money in to a car which no one (dealer or garage) seems to be able to fix (at this point it seems to be process of elimination which is costing of money) OR do we unload it and buy a new one (which we really don't want to do nor can we afford).
We love the car but this is getting a bit irritating and costly not to mention dangerous. What if we get rearended or even worse what if a semi is behind us on the highway and it stalls. We've been dealing with this since the spring of 06. To make matters worse we purchased an extended warranty for $1300 which the company went bankrupt so all these repairs are costing us in addition to the warranty money we lost:frown:. Any suggestions :2cents: would be greatly appreciated:p .
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/statusicon/user_online.gif
If you are going to have it fixed at the dealer.
Tip on going to the dealer
Ask that only a factory certified gasoline engine performance specialist work on your car.
Not all dealerships are concerned with how repairs are dispatched, and not all dealership techs bother to take advantage of the training offered by factory (the vast majority of which is paid training). If the dealer is uncooperative, ask for your money back and call around for a dealer that will accommodate you.
If you decide to find a good repair shop to fix it.
Check around Ask around
Word of mouth.
Family friends coworkers neighbors business people and delivery people.
Mailmen and parcel delivery people get around and notice a lot of stuff.
Even a good parts house knows what shops are good and not good.
Chamber of commerce and better business bureau and city hall.
If you find a good referral to a repair shop go look them over and talk to them.
Look for a clean looking busy place with nice people running it.
Ask a few questions and ask about their qualifications and training.
Not all places have trained tech/mechanics.
If they do not find a place that does.
Even all dealers do not have all trained techs/mechanics.
Or you can trade it off and be done with it and have more payments and maybe have another one with a different problem.:grinyes: :lol: :grinno:
And if you want to fix it yourself post back and someone will help you.
But we need all of the info you can give us.
Tips on getting a good answer to your questions.
People trying to answer your question do not have a crystal ball.
So give them all of the info you have like year make and model and engine and transmission and mileage.
Also cars engine and transmission service history or any recent repairs or problems.
Also a description of your problem and what it is doing or not doing.
If you have codes give up the code no.
And remember a code does not say replace the part but only points to the problem that you have to check out.
So to better help you give up all of the info you have on it.
MT
It will happen at different times (you can be on the highway going 60 and it will just stall or you can be accelerating from a red light and it will stall).
We had a new computer put in which cost $350 including the inital time we took it and they hooked car up to analyzer which cost $30.
Thursday we had a new ignition mudule installed which cost $200.
We still have the problem:banghead: .
Now the garage has the car and is considering the crank shaft sensor:shakehead .
?Do we keep putting money in to a car which no one (dealer or garage) seems to be able to fix (at this point it seems to be process of elimination which is costing of money) OR do we unload it and buy a new one (which we really don't want to do nor can we afford).
We love the car but this is getting a bit irritating and costly not to mention dangerous. What if we get rearended or even worse what if a semi is behind us on the highway and it stalls. We've been dealing with this since the spring of 06. To make matters worse we purchased an extended warranty for $1300 which the company went bankrupt so all these repairs are costing us in addition to the warranty money we lost:frown:. Any suggestions :2cents: would be greatly appreciated:p .
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/images/statusicon/user_online.gif
If you are going to have it fixed at the dealer.
Tip on going to the dealer
Ask that only a factory certified gasoline engine performance specialist work on your car.
Not all dealerships are concerned with how repairs are dispatched, and not all dealership techs bother to take advantage of the training offered by factory (the vast majority of which is paid training). If the dealer is uncooperative, ask for your money back and call around for a dealer that will accommodate you.
If you decide to find a good repair shop to fix it.
Check around Ask around
Word of mouth.
Family friends coworkers neighbors business people and delivery people.
Mailmen and parcel delivery people get around and notice a lot of stuff.
Even a good parts house knows what shops are good and not good.
Chamber of commerce and better business bureau and city hall.
If you find a good referral to a repair shop go look them over and talk to them.
Look for a clean looking busy place with nice people running it.
Ask a few questions and ask about their qualifications and training.
Not all places have trained tech/mechanics.
If they do not find a place that does.
Even all dealers do not have all trained techs/mechanics.
Or you can trade it off and be done with it and have more payments and maybe have another one with a different problem.:grinyes: :lol: :grinno:
And if you want to fix it yourself post back and someone will help you.
But we need all of the info you can give us.
Tips on getting a good answer to your questions.
People trying to answer your question do not have a crystal ball.
So give them all of the info you have like year make and model and engine and transmission and mileage.
Also cars engine and transmission service history or any recent repairs or problems.
Also a description of your problem and what it is doing or not doing.
If you have codes give up the code no.
And remember a code does not say replace the part but only points to the problem that you have to check out.
So to better help you give up all of the info you have on it.
MT
BNaylor
12-30-2006, 10:51 AM
You did not state which model GP you have. I am assuming either a GT/GTP or SE with SII 3800.
Based on your symptoms which are classic of a crank position sensor not putting out proper 18X and/or 3X pulses the shop that suggested replacing the CKPS is most likely correct. About $50 for the part and labor varies at around $100-$200. Or you can do it DIY and save the labor cost.
See our new Tips and Maintenance subforum for the replacement procedure.
Good luck!
Based on your symptoms which are classic of a crank position sensor not putting out proper 18X and/or 3X pulses the shop that suggested replacing the CKPS is most likely correct. About $50 for the part and labor varies at around $100-$200. Or you can do it DIY and save the labor cost.
See our new Tips and Maintenance subforum for the replacement procedure.
Good luck!
Blauryn8
12-30-2006, 10:54 AM
Ok, I'm new:screwy: so thanx for your patience.
Engine: 3.8 Liter V6 MFI
Mileage: 80,000
GT 3800 Series II
Codes P0327 P0332 P0336 P1106.
Hope this additional info is helpful:smokin: .
We have a garage which we have faith in :wink: and also a recommened dealership, in addition to my husband trying to fix the problem. All three resources seem to be shooting in the dark:banghead: .
Engine: 3.8 Liter V6 MFI
Mileage: 80,000
GT 3800 Series II
Codes P0327 P0332 P0336 P1106.
Hope this additional info is helpful:smokin: .
We have a garage which we have faith in :wink: and also a recommened dealership, in addition to my husband trying to fix the problem. All three resources seem to be shooting in the dark:banghead: .
BNaylor
12-30-2006, 11:06 AM
The first two DTCs are knock sensor 1 and 2 faults. P0336 is the crank position sensor range/performance. <--This fault takes priority and should be resolved first. A bad CKPS may cause knock sensor DTCs to set. You are fortunate to get a CKPS error code. Most of the time no DTCs set.
DTC P1106 is Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage which could be a bad MAP sensor, control circuit or a loose electrical connector to it.
The CKPS establishes ignition timing and fuel injection system timing so resolution of that fault may cure the rest.
DTC P1106 is Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage which could be a bad MAP sensor, control circuit or a loose electrical connector to it.
The CKPS establishes ignition timing and fuel injection system timing so resolution of that fault may cure the rest.
MT-2500
12-30-2006, 11:17 AM
Ok, I'm new:screwy: so thanx for your patience.
Engine: 3.8 Liter V6 MFI
Mileage: 80,000
GT 3800 Series II
Codes P0327 P0332 P0336 P1106.
Hope this additional info is helpful:smokin: .
We have a garage which we have faith in :wink: and also a recommened dealership, in addition to my husband trying to fix the problem. All three resources seem to be shooting in the dark:banghead: .
Yes codes is one of the first things to check.
But when checking it is best to clear codes and see what one comes back first.
But based on your crankshaft sensor code 336.
As said there is a lot of problems with the crank sensor.
But remember a code does not say replace the sensor they say check it out.
It may be caused by wiring or other problems.
But on this one from I would go a new OEM GM crank sensor.
Replace it and clear codes and see what it does.
If any codes come back post the no back for more help
Good Luck and
Let us know how it goes MT
Engine: 3.8 Liter V6 MFI
Mileage: 80,000
GT 3800 Series II
Codes P0327 P0332 P0336 P1106.
Hope this additional info is helpful:smokin: .
We have a garage which we have faith in :wink: and also a recommened dealership, in addition to my husband trying to fix the problem. All three resources seem to be shooting in the dark:banghead: .
Yes codes is one of the first things to check.
But when checking it is best to clear codes and see what one comes back first.
But based on your crankshaft sensor code 336.
As said there is a lot of problems with the crank sensor.
But remember a code does not say replace the sensor they say check it out.
It may be caused by wiring or other problems.
But on this one from I would go a new OEM GM crank sensor.
Replace it and clear codes and see what it does.
If any codes come back post the no back for more help
Good Luck and
Let us know how it goes MT
Blauryn8
01-20-2007, 06:48 AM
:licka: YEAH, I have good news. First we put in a new ignition module and switch because when the trac light came on and the tac went to 0 if we wiggled the key, the trac light went off and the tac went back up. So we thougth MAYBE :rolleyes: it was the ignition switch and module. However, it was not.
After changing both these parts we started the car and the check engine light, trac light and tac at 0 were all on:evillol: !!! Needlesstosay, we were not :) .
So at last we changed the crank shaft position sensor over a week ago and the problem appears to be solved.
Thanks so much for your input in helping us resolve this problem. You can understand our frustration, we kept putting money, time and parts into the car without actually fixing the problem. We are very :) :) :) :) now!!!!
Belinda
After changing both these parts we started the car and the check engine light, trac light and tac at 0 were all on:evillol: !!! Needlesstosay, we were not :) .
So at last we changed the crank shaft position sensor over a week ago and the problem appears to be solved.
Thanks so much for your input in helping us resolve this problem. You can understand our frustration, we kept putting money, time and parts into the car without actually fixing the problem. We are very :) :) :) :) now!!!!
Belinda
BNaylor
01-20-2007, 07:21 AM
That is good news for you and thanks for the feedback.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2026