engine whine through all my speakers

Ok i just got my Xmas present today and i got everything all hooked up and it sounded great. Till i turned my car on and i could hear my shifting thru all my speakers. Ive looked around google for problems with Bravadas but had no luck so i decided to make a new thread.

Front Speakers are all stock
Panisonic Deck
2 Speaker Boxes in the back
1 Amp 1600 Watt

Hope all the info produces a good solution

Sounds like you need some kind of filter on your new amp...Hopefully the audio experts will chime in soon.

I've chased engine whine through other cars with new radio/amps and it often comes down to proper grounding locations. All ground connections are not created equal. If the current running through the stereo system shares a path back to the battery with engine electronics, it will cause hum. If possible, try using the exact same contact point as the factory radio. Or try some direct wires to the battery and work you way closer to the stereo gear. Its going to take some trial and error. If all else fails, they used to make power line filters for just this purpose, but I haven't looked for them in a long time. Oh, and make sure to use suitably gauged wire. Good luck

well after spendin all morning and afternoon i have come to the conclusion that its the AMP i rewired everything and it still made the noise. My cousin took his amp hooked it up with all the same wires i got in it and it worked fine so im just gonna have to get on the horn with the Seller from Ebay and say they sent me a defective product

Typically whine is caused by Ground Loop. Even with cheap equipment this is easily cured. The ground loop is caused by grounding different components to different reference grounds in the car. Some amps handle this better because they have built in ground loop isolators, some people though through in ground a ground loop isolator externally. Neither really solves the issue, it only bandaids the issue.

1st. Use the same gauge ground on your amp as the amp's power wire. You should be using 4 gauge or better wire for both power and ground.

2nd. Make sure you power your amp directly to the battery, not any other part of the car/truck

3rd keep your ground wire at the amp as short as possible.

4th Cut the ground at the harness level on the head unit. Ground the chassis of the head unit to the same place you grounded the amp. (If this is not possible, take a multimeter and take the numbers on the reference ground (where the amp is grounded to) and find the same reference towards where you want to ground the head unit. For the head unit ground, 4 or better gauge may not be possible (depends on your particular setup) try to use the thickets wire possible

5th Make sure that the power for the head unit and the amp run on one side of the car and the audio cables run on the other side. Never the twain shall meet.

6th Some amps have better grounding than others where the audio jacks are concerned. Solder a small wire to the outer casing of the audio jacks and run that wire to the same point as the amp's ground

Doing above should cure your ground loop/

I have also had this same problem. Step 5 in rlith's reply was my problem. I made the mistake of running my rca cables and power cables along side eachother. So i now have power wire running along driver side under carpet and the rest of the wires on driver side and haven't had a problem since. Your amp is probably not defective.

Just for the record i have 2 10" power bass subs on 400 watt interfire amp and 2 6x9's and 4 4x6's on a 600 watt jensen amp with a pioneer 680 headunit. Both amps are grounded together on the mount for the flap things behind the back seat. Absolutely no whine what so ever.

Funny, I had the same problem with my 92 with the stock and an Alpine head unit. Both had poor reception compared to other vehicles. I put in the power isolator. It all went away when I bought a Sony explod unit. Go figure, reception was way better. I could get stations that faded out 20 miles further without static than before.

No I already had the power and the RCAs on different sides of the Bravada so i know i dont have the bad reception from touching cables. I have done everything except the soldering of the RCAs to ground and i took it to a local Audio Installer and when i told him that i hooked up my cousins amp and everything worked fine he said that i prolly got a loose ground in the AMP and it would be easier to send it back then tear apart the AMP and try to solve the loose ground. If the new AMP does the same thing then i know that im gonna have to do some soldering and hope for the best. Grant i do have a cheap AMP but still 74$ for a 1600 watt shouldnt give me shit but *shrug* i got it new so i will just wait for a new one

Rlith mentioned using the same guage cable for power and ground..excellent! Keep in mind that if you do not run your amp ground directly to the battery, and choose to ground it to the vehicle body, the amp ultimately get it's ground through the vehicle body ground. The vehicle body ground is nowhere NEAR 4 gauge. Run an additional 4 gauge cable from the engine block to the negative battery terminal.

My friend had this problem and he didnt have his system grounded with a large enough gauge of wire and he had it grounded on an area with paint. Also make sure your ground wire is fresh copper.

everything is fresh i sanded everything down i did everything i could do and nothing worked so ill just get a new amp it came new so im not worried about it

i had the same problem with my cavalier its just feedback from the alternator since the frequency is high enough to come out of the spekers, the amp does it's job in this sence as well, it amplifies the whine as well,

i had the same problem with my cavalier its just feedback from the alternator since the frequency is high enough to come out of the spekers, the amp does it's job in this sence as well, it amplifies the whine as well,


See my above post on how to get rid of it