Tamiya X-2 is flat??

Ok. I'm perplexed.

I thought X2 (white) was gloss? I shot it through my airbrush today and it is as flat as my primer (tamiya as well). My thinning factor was 3:1, paint:thinner.

Am I missing something?

Daniel

Yes.
Tamiya X-2 is gloss white.

How far from the subject were you spraying and at what pressure.
How well did you mix the paint before thinning it?
What consistency was the paint when you sprayed it - did you just mix to a ratio or did you account for the consistency of the paint before thinning?
What pressure did you spray at?

Yes.
Tamiya X-2 is gloss white.

How far from the subject were you spraying and at what pressure.
How well did you mix the paint before thinning it?
What consistency was the paint when you sprayed it - did you just mix to a ratio or did you account for the consistency of the paint before thinning?
What pressure did you spray at?

To answer your questions in order:

~8" at 20psi
Very well. Not a problem.
I mixed it to where it looked like whole milk does on the side of a glass, as was stated in another thread on the topic of airbrushing.

I also primed the body just like everything said to. I don't understand what went wrong...

Daniel

8" is kind of far away for an airbrush, you probably should spray from 3" at 15psi.

What is the texture of the finished paint job? If it is smooth and the paint still looks flat maybe you got a bad or old jar.



Mark

What are you using for thinner? Tamiya gloss acrylics tend to be a bit picky about thinners. Their own thinner is rumoured to have 'special additives' (some say it's glyceryn or the like) that allows their gloss paints to dry with a gloss finish. Other stuff (isopropyl, etc.) apperently dosn't work white as well with their glosses.

As Ray sed, spray it with the lowest pressure you can (helps to eliminate surface texture), and spray it as thinned as you can without running it.

What is the texture of the finished paint job? If it is smooth and the paint still looks flat maybe you got a bad or old jar.

The finish is VERY orange peel/grainy and very flat (as in not glossy). It looks a lot like what white tamiya primer looks like. When I buffed the paint out a bit with some Novus #2 polish, it brightened up considerably. However, it was still very orange peelly.

Daniel

What are you using for thinner? Tamiya gloss acrylics tend to be a bit picky about thinners. Their own thinner is rumoured to have 'special additives' (some say it's glyceryn or the like) that allows their gloss paints to dry with a gloss finish. Other stuff (isopropyl, etc.) apperently dosn't work white as well with their glosses.

As Ray sed, spray it with the lowest pressure you can (helps to eliminate surface texture), and spray it as thinned as you can without running it.

I'm using my own thinner, 1/2 isopropyl alcohol, 1/2 water, and 1/2 drop of dishwashing soap for lubrication. (A recommendation from long-time modelers.)

I sprayed it at 50/50 and 75/25 mixes (paint/thinner) with the same result both times. No difference at all. I also ranged from 15-25 psi with no difference either.

I'm thinking it was the thinner as well.

Well, is there anything better than brake fluid to remove screwed up paint jobs?? :banghead:

Thanks for the input, guys.

Daniel

Problem 1 - your 'own' thinner.

Problem 2 - You're spraying from too far, the fact that you're getting the surface texture you are is a clear indicator of this.

To remove the paint, use 90% Isopropyl alcohol.

Problem 1 - your 'own' thinner.

I guess it does make sense--the guys that gave me this suggestion are military modelers...not using too many gloss colors, I imagine...:nono:

Problem 2 - You're spraying from too far, the fact that you're getting the surface texture you are is a clear indicator of this.

I know Alclad lacquers say to spray from 1-2" away @ 15-20psi...is this distance applicable for ALL paints?

Daniel

PS--Ray, AWD Eclipses are faster than WRXs... :lol:

I guess it does make sense--the guys that gave me this suggestion are military modelers...not using too many gloss colors, I imagine...:nono:

When you're spraying flat colors, you don't have to worry about your thinner potion making the paint flat.



I know Alclad lacquers say to spray from 1-2" away @ 15-20psi...is this distance applicable for ALL paints?

Yes, it is applicable. Keep in mind Alclad is pre thinned, if you're thinning to the same consistency, you should follow the same guidelines.


PS--Ray, AWD Eclipses are faster than WRXs... :lol:

Whatever you're smoking, I want some too.

I wanna smoke too.........

Whatever you're smoking, I want some too.

Subies are fast...in a straight line. Try and turn 'em and you've got a problem... :smokin:

Subies are fast...in a straight line. Try and turn 'em and you've got a problem... :smokin:
(bump!!) HA!!! CIVICS ARE BETTER!!! :rofl:
oh,and don't forget. Subbies are rally cars. they don't turn. They slide. uhhh...well,that's not good in a chicane...:p
PS: Ray,don't be mad. i'm kiddin! :D

When you're spraying flat colors, you don't have to worry about your thinner potion making the paint flat.
Very true. I came to car modeling from building airplanes- I used isopropyl/water/soap for several years happily. But when I started building cars, it just didn't do what I wanted it to. Switching to Tamiya's stuff made a difference. And as I only use it for thinning when airbrushing, I don't use it fast- a large bottle lasts well over a year.

Nothing is easier to strip than Tamiya acrylics. 90% isopropyl works great, and so does Windex tyoe glass cleaner. Windex is also great for cleaning your airbrush after spraying Tamiya.

I test drove an STi recently. Very nice little engine, does what it's asked. But it didn't give me as much confidence in cornering as I had hoped. Stomping on the gas on a curved interstate on ramp it didn't come unstuck, but it didn't feel assured that it wouldn't. It didn't encourage me to find its limits. Maybe just because it rides higher than my M3?

Only thing I can add here is that the acrylics shrink a lot when drying, just like TS sprays, so if there is any hint of graininess in the primer coat (even Tamiya fine primers aren't perfectly smooth and I always go over them w/Micromesh 4000 before color coats), a gloss coat of color over that will show some (a lot) of that grain and you'll have to polish it smooth regardless.

The answer is simple. Rough surfaces do not reflect the light properly and will never have a glossy look. Moreover, high pressure leads the paint to partially dry in the air before hitting the surface. Acrylics dry fast, and therefore they are more sensetive to air pressure than enmail colours. Usually 1.5-2 Bar pressure is sufficient for air brush application. Internal mix guns requires 0.5-1 Bar more.