Jeep Water Pump Replacement
leroge
12-28-2006, 05:37 PM
My 1993 Wrangler ( 4.0 L ) needs its water pump replaced. At least that is my assumption. I have been hearing a 'bearing' type, metal-on-metal 'nashing'. Seems to be still working in that I have no water temp problems nor leakage.
How would I confirm this to be the problem. Initially, I thought it was some other form of bearing problem...like a 'pinging' as I excellerated hard in first gear.
I noticed that I can purchase the water pump for under $50. How much should I expect to pay to have it replaced? Is such a replacement a pro's job?
My hard top '93 is in MINT condition with 58K miles. Garage kept and never a night on the street. EVERYTHING original. Anyone interested?
Please advise.
Roger
How would I confirm this to be the problem. Initially, I thought it was some other form of bearing problem...like a 'pinging' as I excellerated hard in first gear.
I noticed that I can purchase the water pump for under $50. How much should I expect to pay to have it replaced? Is such a replacement a pro's job?
My hard top '93 is in MINT condition with 58K miles. Garage kept and never a night on the street. EVERYTHING original. Anyone interested?
Please advise.
Roger
4x4grey88
12-29-2006, 01:23 AM
If you are not having temp problem its probably not the water pump.
Have you checked the chutch on the fan? And does your Jeep have a belt pulley? Sometimes is will sound like the bearing is scraping or grinding.
On my XJ I had to replace both the pulley (purchased at my local Junkyard) and clutch fan with electric - which gives more HP, and is much quieter.
You might also check to see how tight the belt is because if it is too tight it increases pressure on the pulley, hub and pump.
Let us know.
Have you checked the chutch on the fan? And does your Jeep have a belt pulley? Sometimes is will sound like the bearing is scraping or grinding.
On my XJ I had to replace both the pulley (purchased at my local Junkyard) and clutch fan with electric - which gives more HP, and is much quieter.
You might also check to see how tight the belt is because if it is too tight it increases pressure on the pulley, hub and pump.
Let us know.
89ltd
12-29-2006, 09:32 AM
remove the drive belt or belts and turn each thing by hand, try the fan/water pump, alt., a.c comp., everything should turn smoothly, you may find out what it is that way.
leroge
12-29-2006, 08:22 PM
Thanks to 4x4grey88 and 89ltd...
I stopped by my local shop ( prior to reading your responses ) and the mechanic noticed that the fan ( clutch etc. ) housing 'moved' from side to side. He indicated that the 'bearing' needed to be replaced and I assume he meant the bearing on the water pump. He also noted some cracking of the belt.
He estimated the cost of replacing the water pump and the belt at $300. I suspect this cost isn't out of line? However, since I believe I can purchase a water pump for $50 and a belt rather inexpensively, perhaps a mechanically inclined individual like me could replace the water pump. I have done other work on my 2001 FORD van suggested by automotiveforums.com - e.g. removed and cleaned the idle control valve and saved myself a few hundred bucks! Key question is - does the radiator have to be removed to get at the fan housing and water pump? I do have the Haynes Jeep manual describing how to remove and replace the water pump but it isn't clear whether the radiator has to be removed. I did note the distinction between forward and reverse rotating pumps, so I'll pay close attention to that. Save the torque wrench, I believe I have all the necessary tools.
What do you think? Do you suggest I give it a try? Anything to watch out for?
Please advise.
Roger
PS: Note my just entered second and new problem regarding a leaking gas tank.
I stopped by my local shop ( prior to reading your responses ) and the mechanic noticed that the fan ( clutch etc. ) housing 'moved' from side to side. He indicated that the 'bearing' needed to be replaced and I assume he meant the bearing on the water pump. He also noted some cracking of the belt.
He estimated the cost of replacing the water pump and the belt at $300. I suspect this cost isn't out of line? However, since I believe I can purchase a water pump for $50 and a belt rather inexpensively, perhaps a mechanically inclined individual like me could replace the water pump. I have done other work on my 2001 FORD van suggested by automotiveforums.com - e.g. removed and cleaned the idle control valve and saved myself a few hundred bucks! Key question is - does the radiator have to be removed to get at the fan housing and water pump? I do have the Haynes Jeep manual describing how to remove and replace the water pump but it isn't clear whether the radiator has to be removed. I did note the distinction between forward and reverse rotating pumps, so I'll pay close attention to that. Save the torque wrench, I believe I have all the necessary tools.
What do you think? Do you suggest I give it a try? Anything to watch out for?
Please advise.
Roger
PS: Note my just entered second and new problem regarding a leaking gas tank.
4x4grey88
12-29-2006, 10:44 PM
Change it yourself. It is not that difficult... AND will save you a bundle.
Remember to work on a cooled engine. :)
Loosen the belt, remove the fan (four nuts), see if the fan clutch is a problem (see note 1) and then ease the fan into the schroud area. Remove the water pump hoses and bolts. Removing the pump might take some doing to after you remove the bolts because of the gasket. Try to pry the water pump from the block (careful not to gouge the block with your tool). Water will come out of the space of removed water pump (see note 2). Clean the old gasket area around the block.
Then install the new pump in reverse order.
You might want to replace the thermostat the same time. I recommend the 165F one.
NOTE 1: Does the fan, not the water pump, move from side to side? If it does you need to replace the clutch fan also (then you might want to think about an electric fan replacement).
NOTE2: The water/antifreeze can be drained prior to removing the pump by draining the radiator drian valve under the radiator. You will save much more liquidby not draining because you will only lose the liquid that comes out of the pump area. Unless you want to change the antifreeze anyway.
You have your repair manual to help youalong the way, which is good.
Let us know how it turns out..
Remember to work on a cooled engine. :)
Loosen the belt, remove the fan (four nuts), see if the fan clutch is a problem (see note 1) and then ease the fan into the schroud area. Remove the water pump hoses and bolts. Removing the pump might take some doing to after you remove the bolts because of the gasket. Try to pry the water pump from the block (careful not to gouge the block with your tool). Water will come out of the space of removed water pump (see note 2). Clean the old gasket area around the block.
Then install the new pump in reverse order.
You might want to replace the thermostat the same time. I recommend the 165F one.
NOTE 1: Does the fan, not the water pump, move from side to side? If it does you need to replace the clutch fan also (then you might want to think about an electric fan replacement).
NOTE2: The water/antifreeze can be drained prior to removing the pump by draining the radiator drian valve under the radiator. You will save much more liquidby not draining because you will only lose the liquid that comes out of the pump area. Unless you want to change the antifreeze anyway.
You have your repair manual to help youalong the way, which is good.
Let us know how it turns out..
tomvid
01-02-2007, 09:58 AM
Use this as a reference.
It is for a TJ but it should be quite similiar.
I replaced mine last summer. Very easy job.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/radiator/radiator-4.htm
By the way, my bearing was so worn that the inside fan on the water pump actually started to hit the outside piston wall, so you are going to want to change that ASAP.
It is for a TJ but it should be quite similiar.
I replaced mine last summer. Very easy job.
http://www.stu-offroad.com/engine/radiator/radiator-4.htm
By the way, my bearing was so worn that the inside fan on the water pump actually started to hit the outside piston wall, so you are going to want to change that ASAP.
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