92 - won't start at all

<THIS SHOULD HAVE POSTED AS A REPLY TO THE "FLASHING SECURITY LIGHT", "VATS", and/or "PASSKEY" threads - just like the car, now the PC has a mind of its own.... For clarification, I added the subjects at the beginning.. My apologies!!>

Well all, I thank each & everyone of you for all the info in these posts so far.... Even in the past, you've all come through!!!Unfortunately, and typical of my life, my 92 Lesabre left me stranded on Xmas day... No dinner for us, no family visits, nothing period... Grrrrr...

I have gone through EVERY shred of these posts (and other similar ones), every link, and I'm plagued with the wonderful flashing security light regardless of my 'doings'. Flashing for 4 minutes? Not this one; any fault codes? None whatsoever; Any results after letting it sit in the 'on' position [indefinitly]? Nope; Basically, since 2PM on Xmas day, I've done it all.

I've made the resistor 'train' after finding the correct resistance & per the chart in one of the links. To no surprise, none of the colors referenced match up. Out of desperation, I tried several; when it did not work, I simply re-spliced them together.

So I'm back @ square one, the demons have struck the thing again, and about all the thing is good for right now is being on vacation. I won't swear that I've been in the best of conditions to do this (cold, wet, and it's not in the garage - figures - plus I'm working in the dark due to my work schedule/very little sleep), and I'm sure my levels of irritation are higher than the clouds.

Nevertheless, $$ is VERY tight and a new module is pointless/out of the question. Furthermore, it would only make sense to troubleshoot & rule that out before even contemplating such an expense. At this point, I've got about $200 to play with - so I open the floor to any & all suggestions for my endeavours in bringing it back to life.

Then again, maybe this is its way of saying "I'm DONE".... 187K - she did me well, had issues of course, but nothing to where I had to take it do a mechanic & spend booku $$...

As always, Thank You to anyone who can throw some more options, point out any errors on my part, or any other 'work arounds' that may exist.... Niko

I thought security problems will allow a fire up and then quickly stall.
The pump will pump up and during start you get a prime .. the Security system turns off the running pulses after the prime..

During cranking are you getting spark? Can you spray start fluid during a start attempt and will it fire? ( I use WD40) Yes? Back to VATS.

IF ITS VATS> Modules are frequent in the Junk yard.. $10 but have to match the key. The pulses the VATS puts out are what the ECM needs
I think you can get a bypass pulse module for $40




Good Luck

Thanks for the response Bass..... Here's the scoop (& in reverse order of pose):

-No Spark to check during cranking since there is no cranking; symptomatic of the security activated (cut off) accourding to other posts;
-Can hear fuel pump prime 'sometimes' when key is turned to 'on';
-Security is flashing throughout ALL processes/attempts to start;
-Still cannot make my way through the wiring 'cluster' you know what under my dash.... Nothing matches any diagrams (even GM issued wiring diagrams)... Beautiful eh?
-Starter, Alt., and damn near all related components replaced <6 months ago when this happened. While I have new parts and all, this didn't do a thing as it was the key itself back then... I can't imagine the new key going 'bad' this soon - plus I can read the resistance on the key;
-This is the third 'round' with the ignition issue

SO - I would be more than happy to try the WD-40 method (as I do on the riding mower when it's winter & I use it as a snowplow), but won't do me any good since I can't even get it to crank... With what I've been reading, everything is pointing to this dang VATS/Passkey-II system. It is/was a good idea - however when it quits, you're screwed!!!

If anyone would mind taking the time, and I'll 're-pay' the courtesy if/when I can, I'll email photos of the wiring in hopes this decoder/VATS/Ignition wiring can be identified....

Thanks again & Happy New Year to all :)

Here's a link that may help.
http://www.12vp.com/info_resistors.htm

The Vats wires are 2 small wires in a plastic sleeve.
I'll pm my email address.

The neutral safety switch/transaxle position switch seems like a strong suspect. It is what tells your car to start only in the drive or neutral positions. To tell whether or not this is the problem, get a wiring diagram and find the wire coming into the switch as 12V only when you crank the key to the start position. Is there 12V coming in? Yes? Then it is either the switch or the wiring to the starter (or the starter itself). No? Then it is either the PCM, wiring, or ignition switch, or less likely, the VATS system.

Bypassing the VATS is NOT hard, it just takes some time and patience. You have to go get everything you need and then take a day to work on it. But it very well may not be necessary. Who knows?

Did you ever get this issue resolved? We have a '92 that starts sometimes and does not other times. Turn the key and we may get nothing, no clicks, nothing just like a dead battery. Try again and maybe the engine will start and then all is ok until we shut off the engine again. When we try again, we cross our fingers. Our mechanic put in new battery even though I was fairly sure the existing battery was still good and still we have the same problem.