Working cyclone

Well for those of you who have know that i have been working on this project for a long long time. Since jake was the mod here. The car is finished and i got the cyclone running and its a bad ass itm. My 14b before on my 7-bolt didn't start to spool up until 4-4500 rpms with no boost leaks. we checked for them. Now i spool up at 2500 rpms with no changes to the intercooler pipe or anything like that. It pulls hard all the way to redline and the low end power is great so for those who said it was worthless you should try it before you say that it is crap!!

None of the members who said it wasn't worth it probably isn't even here anymore. lol

Well, besides me... I've been here forever. lol

That maybe so but it just feels good to say that its makes a huge difference on my car.

cyclone motor or cyclone intake manifold? I'm confused as to what you are thinking gave you your spool back.

Lets get some pics ! sounds awsome.

Or, you could have just put some spacer washers onto the wastegate mounting brackets to pull on the actuator arm which fixed my problem just like that. But, good job on getting it to work right. How did you go about doing it?

The cyclone intake manifold is what i'm refering to that gave me the spool back. as far as how i hooked it i used a rpm switch and a vacuum ball from ford and the fprs I'll post some pics when i get back in to home. its really not that hard to hook up.

1. There are three vacuum lines that come out of the cyclone. the first one goes to the bov. Second one goes to the fpr. Third goes to the vacuum canister/or ball.

2. The ball has two ports one that goes in to the intake manifold and the other goes to the fprs. The line that orginally when to the fpr now goes to the butterfly controller. You then uncap the fprs.

that takes care of all the vacuum lines.

3. Use the rpm switch you get the rpm signal from the white wire on the trd module that is atached to the coil pack.

4. Use the yellow wire on the rpm switch and connect it to fprs and then you connect the fprs to a power source, battery or fuse box. get power for the rpm switch from the fuse box under the dash and it must be grounded.

5. then you set the rpm signal to when you want it to activate and the de-activate it at redline or where ever the highest point you shift at.

thats it then you are set enjoy the extra tq and quicker spool

The cyclone intake manifold is what i'm refering to that gave me the spool back. as far as how i hooked it i used a rpm switch and a vacuum ball from ford I'll post some pics when i get back in to home.

I can guarantee you just switching to the cyclone didn't make the difference. You did something else in the procedure. Either way, glad it works.

Can you explain to me to me why it spools faster now then?

Can you explain to me to me why it spools faster now then?

probably because you plugged up some giant leak or some major restriction. I'm saying that it wasn't switching to a cyclone that fixed it, it was switching to another intake manifold, or fixing something when you installed the new intake manifold.

Well.... I'm not going to say that we didn't plug a leak but we did a test before and there was no leak but really the only things that changed were the block and the head and intake manifold

Those are some pretty major changes... You realize the 6 bolt heads flow a lot more air than the 7 bolt heads do. That is probably what did it for you.

^^^ Agree

yes i understand that but, the 2g head keep air at a high velocity so that should spool the turbo faster. But the cyclone does the same thing in a way so it should does it in a different way. I can tell becuase when i was running 8 pounds it pulled really hard and it didn't do that before. thats why the 1g have smaller piping so it spools the turbo faster

velocity < airflow in this factor when your running a ported 6 bolt head that can breath easy... Trust me, the head is what did it for you... Although I'm not condoning the cyclone intake to not helping it to breath even easier... I'm willing to bet it was a combination really... If you think about it before you ran a complete 7 bolt setup now your running a complete 6 bolt setup along with a cyclone intake... The 6 bolts alone spool turbos faster than 7 bolts do.

ok i understand that would make since. Well either way it pulls really hard at 8psi so I'm looking forward to turning it up to 15 as soon as the motor is borken in. 200 more miles to go. I'll post pics for those who would like to see it anyway

DSM'ers always love pictures. :wink: :thumbsup:

The 6 bolts alone spool turbos faster than 7 bolts do.

2g's have higher compression, stock for stock, the 7bolts spool faster. The lower compression is better because you can run more boost safely though.

glad to hear your car works :)

2g's have higher compression, stock for stock, the 7bolts spool faster. The lower compression is better because you can run more boost safely though.
Yes, stock for stock... But did you notice he is running 2g pistons in the 6 bolt? That along with the high flowing heads on a 6 bolt would make it one tough motor and explain why it spools so much better than his 7 bolt motor.

thought you were referring to 6bolts and 7bolts in general :)

anyway, point is, if you were spooling at 4500rpm, something was definitely wrong with the setup

Well stock for stock the 2g also is running a smaller turbo. I think that there are several things that would also trigger the quicker spool. the cams on the 1g are more aggressive than the 2g. I also have the 1g tb so it flows more air. But even people who have had a stock 1g and put a cyclone on noticed a large difference in lower end power and turbo spool.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224551&highlight=cyclone+intake+manifold

if you look at the dyno chart one of these is done with the butterflys open the hole time and then the other is done with them closed the hole time.