New owner with heater problem
explicit408
12-21-2006, 11:59 PM
Hello all,
I just drove my new '93 Rodeo home. Its nice and clean with 132K on the odometer. As I was driving it home in the rain I turned on the defroster and set the temp to hot but the air never got hot. The drive home was about 45 minutes and my temperature gauge never passed the halfway mark. There is no leaks and the coolant reservoir tank is about half way full. What could it be?
I just drove my new '93 Rodeo home. Its nice and clean with 132K on the odometer. As I was driving it home in the rain I turned on the defroster and set the temp to hot but the air never got hot. The drive home was about 45 minutes and my temperature gauge never passed the halfway mark. There is no leaks and the coolant reservoir tank is about half way full. What could it be?
trooperbc
12-22-2006, 01:05 AM
well, you do have a coolant circulation problem, and that could be a number of things.
first, don't go by the reservoir. undo the radiator cap, with a rag and smarts if it's hot, and check the coolant there. it's possible that the system is way low on fluid, and you are not getting enough circulation to the heater core, and/or you have an air bubble in there blocking things
how's the temp gauge?
do this first thing. you do not want to be driving your new baby around without enough coolant.
if the engine is hot/warm, add coolant with the engine running. add to full, goose the throttle some, run until you are sure the thermostat is open and refill as needed. put cap back on.
report back. there are a number of other possibilities, but that is the first step.
some other possibilities
clogged heater core
heater bypassed by previous owner/seller because heater core leaked
water pump defective
clogged radiator
and others (?)
hth
//bc
first, don't go by the reservoir. undo the radiator cap, with a rag and smarts if it's hot, and check the coolant there. it's possible that the system is way low on fluid, and you are not getting enough circulation to the heater core, and/or you have an air bubble in there blocking things
how's the temp gauge?
do this first thing. you do not want to be driving your new baby around without enough coolant.
if the engine is hot/warm, add coolant with the engine running. add to full, goose the throttle some, run until you are sure the thermostat is open and refill as needed. put cap back on.
report back. there are a number of other possibilities, but that is the first step.
some other possibilities
clogged heater core
heater bypassed by previous owner/seller because heater core leaked
water pump defective
clogged radiator
and others (?)
hth
//bc
explicit408
12-22-2006, 02:27 AM
Thanks for the reply!
Temp is good. Never went past the halfway mark on a 45 minute drive. I was about to remove the radiator cap but coolant started spilling out so I assumed there was enough in there. I just noticed a slushing sound when I take off coming from the glove box area. Could it be a clogged heater core?
Also, another thing I just noticed is that the temp selector wont slide all the way to cold. It will slide all the way to hot. Is that normal?
Temp is good. Never went past the halfway mark on a 45 minute drive. I was about to remove the radiator cap but coolant started spilling out so I assumed there was enough in there. I just noticed a slushing sound when I take off coming from the glove box area. Could it be a clogged heater core?
Also, another thing I just noticed is that the temp selector wont slide all the way to cold. It will slide all the way to hot. Is that normal?
Ramblin Fever
12-22-2006, 08:28 AM
Slushing sound could be one of two things; washer reserviour making noise if it's full of fluid. Or, an air bubble in the cooling system.
Just because it spilled out when you begin to open after it heated up, doesn't always mean it's full.
The hot/cold selector issue, no that's not normal.
Did the previous owner have any records of service/maintenance?
Sounds definitely like a cooling system issue, and If there's an air bubble depending where it's at, the temp gauge may not be telling the truth.
What I would do, is either perform a cooling system flush yourself, or take it into a shop & have it done ASAP - have them change the thermostat while they're doing it.
If that's the original radiator, could be blocked with age and may need to be replaced, they typically only last for a good 10-11yrs.
Just replaced mine on my '97 within the last few months, my engine had never gotten hot or over the half mark, but it now runs a tad cooler. Even after having performed flushes every-year, radiators can only last so long.
Just because it spilled out when you begin to open after it heated up, doesn't always mean it's full.
The hot/cold selector issue, no that's not normal.
Did the previous owner have any records of service/maintenance?
Sounds definitely like a cooling system issue, and If there's an air bubble depending where it's at, the temp gauge may not be telling the truth.
What I would do, is either perform a cooling system flush yourself, or take it into a shop & have it done ASAP - have them change the thermostat while they're doing it.
If that's the original radiator, could be blocked with age and may need to be replaced, they typically only last for a good 10-11yrs.
Just replaced mine on my '97 within the last few months, my engine had never gotten hot or over the half mark, but it now runs a tad cooler. Even after having performed flushes every-year, radiators can only last so long.
explicit408
12-22-2006, 01:35 PM
Well the washer reservoir is empty so its not that.
Ill check the radiator level again.
What would cause the temp selector to do that? Could it be that it is off center and not really going all the way to hot when I select it? Because the air it does throw out is a tad warmer than outside air.
Ill check the radiator level again.
What would cause the temp selector to do that? Could it be that it is off center and not really going all the way to hot when I select it? Because the air it does throw out is a tad warmer than outside air.
Ramblin Fever
12-22-2006, 02:31 PM
Have no idea on the temp selector, I'm sorry. Unless something is jammed inside where the dash is.
Ok, if your washer reserviour is empty; then yes, sounds like an air pocket in the cooling system.
Park your truck on an upward slope - nose up and preferably starting with a cold engine, take your radiator cap off, if it's low, fill to the brim and then start the truck (with radiator cap off). Also make sure your overflow reservior is above the minimum line, and put it's cap back on.
Allow the truck to run to normal operating temp 15-20 minutes depending on how cold it is outside, rev the engine a bit nothing horrendous, if the level in the radiator goes down via bubbles popping out, add more coolant to bring it back to the top - keep doing this for at least 20 minutes or until your satisfied that all the bubbles have stopped.
Put radiator cap back on; allow the engine to completely cool down, i.e. 3hrs or so, and double check level in coolant reservior tank.
I generally keep my reserve tank in the middle of high/low marks on a cold engine; when my engine's at normal operating temp, my coolant reserve tank is right at the high mark.
Still think you need to have a coolant flush done; any known history on this truck?
Ok, if your washer reserviour is empty; then yes, sounds like an air pocket in the cooling system.
Park your truck on an upward slope - nose up and preferably starting with a cold engine, take your radiator cap off, if it's low, fill to the brim and then start the truck (with radiator cap off). Also make sure your overflow reservior is above the minimum line, and put it's cap back on.
Allow the truck to run to normal operating temp 15-20 minutes depending on how cold it is outside, rev the engine a bit nothing horrendous, if the level in the radiator goes down via bubbles popping out, add more coolant to bring it back to the top - keep doing this for at least 20 minutes or until your satisfied that all the bubbles have stopped.
Put radiator cap back on; allow the engine to completely cool down, i.e. 3hrs or so, and double check level in coolant reservior tank.
I generally keep my reserve tank in the middle of high/low marks on a cold engine; when my engine's at normal operating temp, my coolant reserve tank is right at the high mark.
Still think you need to have a coolant flush done; any known history on this truck?
surferfletch
12-22-2006, 05:23 PM
The first thing that came to my mind was the previous owner bypassing the heater core because of a leak. Look in the engine bay near the fire wall on the passenger side to see if the heater core hoses are intact and properly routed. If you did have some coolant in the HVAC box sloshing around, I'd think you'd notice the sweet smell of coolant, though.
trooperbc
12-22-2006, 06:30 PM
Thanks for the reply!
Temp is good. Never went past the halfway mark on a 45 minute drive. I was about to remove the radiator cap but coolant started spilling out so I assumed there was enough in there. I just noticed a slushing sound when I take off coming from the glove box area. Could it be a clogged heater core?
Also, another thing I just noticed is that the temp selector wont slide all the way to cold. It will slide all the way to hot. Is that normal?
ok explicit, all this is making me think it's the heater core [third step on the list] and the previous owner tried working on it (hence the temp selector screwed up) and gave up and just bypassed it (hence the no heat and the sloshing sound of the partly-filled heater core). i'm currently negotiating with myself about replacing my heater core or first just trying to replace the heater hoses.
here's a photo of the heater hoses in the engine compartment of my 1992 trooper v6 3.2L. yours should be the same or similar. if the heater core was bypassed, the two hoses would be disconnected at the top of the engine and a single hose would connect the two 'pipes'.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a281/trooperbc/heater%20leaks/IMG_0697_withcallouts.jpg
replacing the hoses is tough (at least on my 92 trooper), and replacing the heater core, from my research, is a real PITA, so it wouldn't suprise that the previous owner would give up on doing the work (not to mention the $300 or so for the new box with core).
what i'd do:
***visually check for heater core bypass
***then check the coolant stuff, even if the heater is bypassed; you want to make sure this guy didn't shortcut something else.
***then get to figuring about the temp selector if everything else checks ok. there's no sense doing anything with that if the heater box has to come out because you will just do it all over again [besides, it's probably just an adjustment of the wire]
btw, these heaters don't have a heater valve -- coolant is always going thru the heater core (when it's connected). the temp switch just adjusts a swinging gate door to allow air to cross over the heater core for heat, more and less.
hth
let us know what you find
//bc
Temp is good. Never went past the halfway mark on a 45 minute drive. I was about to remove the radiator cap but coolant started spilling out so I assumed there was enough in there. I just noticed a slushing sound when I take off coming from the glove box area. Could it be a clogged heater core?
Also, another thing I just noticed is that the temp selector wont slide all the way to cold. It will slide all the way to hot. Is that normal?
ok explicit, all this is making me think it's the heater core [third step on the list] and the previous owner tried working on it (hence the temp selector screwed up) and gave up and just bypassed it (hence the no heat and the sloshing sound of the partly-filled heater core). i'm currently negotiating with myself about replacing my heater core or first just trying to replace the heater hoses.
here's a photo of the heater hoses in the engine compartment of my 1992 trooper v6 3.2L. yours should be the same or similar. if the heater core was bypassed, the two hoses would be disconnected at the top of the engine and a single hose would connect the two 'pipes'.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a281/trooperbc/heater%20leaks/IMG_0697_withcallouts.jpg
replacing the hoses is tough (at least on my 92 trooper), and replacing the heater core, from my research, is a real PITA, so it wouldn't suprise that the previous owner would give up on doing the work (not to mention the $300 or so for the new box with core).
what i'd do:
***visually check for heater core bypass
***then check the coolant stuff, even if the heater is bypassed; you want to make sure this guy didn't shortcut something else.
***then get to figuring about the temp selector if everything else checks ok. there's no sense doing anything with that if the heater box has to come out because you will just do it all over again [besides, it's probably just an adjustment of the wire]
btw, these heaters don't have a heater valve -- coolant is always going thru the heater core (when it's connected). the temp switch just adjusts a swinging gate door to allow air to cross over the heater core for heat, more and less.
hth
let us know what you find
//bc
explicit408
12-22-2006, 11:02 PM
Thanks for all the help guys.
The heater hoses look exactly like that. They go into the firewall and they get hot.
This morning I put some coolant in the overflow and started the car. I took the cap off the radiator to check for bubbles. Let it idle for 10-15 minutes and when the thermostat opened up I started reving and at first a few big bubbles came out but then it started foaming. The level never got low enough to see the core. And still no hot air.
A friend told me it has to be a clogged heater core. Since the car doesn't overheat and its not leaking coolant into the cabin.
The coolant looks pretty fresh so maybe they didn't bleed the system right. I also have a feeling the temp switch isn't pushing the gate all the way to allow the hot air through.
Damn, I think I'm just going to have to take the dash apart and inspect the heater core and temp switch.
Know where I could get a cheap shop manual?
The heater hoses look exactly like that. They go into the firewall and they get hot.
This morning I put some coolant in the overflow and started the car. I took the cap off the radiator to check for bubbles. Let it idle for 10-15 minutes and when the thermostat opened up I started reving and at first a few big bubbles came out but then it started foaming. The level never got low enough to see the core. And still no hot air.
A friend told me it has to be a clogged heater core. Since the car doesn't overheat and its not leaking coolant into the cabin.
The coolant looks pretty fresh so maybe they didn't bleed the system right. I also have a feeling the temp switch isn't pushing the gate all the way to allow the hot air through.
Damn, I think I'm just going to have to take the dash apart and inspect the heater core and temp switch.
Know where I could get a cheap shop manual?
trooperbc
12-22-2006, 11:48 PM
The heater hoses look exactly like that. They go into the firewall and they get hot. well, that's a good start anyway.
but then it started foaming. but that doesn't sound good at all. foaming would indicate air. so maybe it it isn't fully bled and you do have an air bubble in there blocking circulation thru the heater core. [[[i''ll hesitate saying anything about a possible head gasket until you say there are other indications that that might be the case ]]]]
A friend told me it has to be a clogged heater core. certainly could be. but it's such a pita to get to the core, i'd want to rule out all other easier possibilities first myself....especially with the air indicated by the foaming you mentioned. I also have a feeling the temp switch isn't pushing the gate all the way to allow the hot air through. that also sounds plausible.
Damn, I think I'm just going to have to take the dash apart and inspect the heater core and temp switch. you might want to follow the wire from the 'switch' to the heater box to see if you can tell it's not hooked up correctly. it's also possible the guy replaced just the heater core (not the whole box the way isuzu wants you to now) and he messed up one or more of those trap doors. any other ventilation problems?
Know where I could get a cheap shop manual? no
but here's the site for the expensive one
www.helminc.com (http://www.helminc.com)
good luck
//bc
but then it started foaming. but that doesn't sound good at all. foaming would indicate air. so maybe it it isn't fully bled and you do have an air bubble in there blocking circulation thru the heater core. [[[i''ll hesitate saying anything about a possible head gasket until you say there are other indications that that might be the case ]]]]
A friend told me it has to be a clogged heater core. certainly could be. but it's such a pita to get to the core, i'd want to rule out all other easier possibilities first myself....especially with the air indicated by the foaming you mentioned. I also have a feeling the temp switch isn't pushing the gate all the way to allow the hot air through. that also sounds plausible.
Damn, I think I'm just going to have to take the dash apart and inspect the heater core and temp switch. you might want to follow the wire from the 'switch' to the heater box to see if you can tell it's not hooked up correctly. it's also possible the guy replaced just the heater core (not the whole box the way isuzu wants you to now) and he messed up one or more of those trap doors. any other ventilation problems?
Know where I could get a cheap shop manual? no
but here's the site for the expensive one
www.helminc.com (http://www.helminc.com)
good luck
//bc
HI JOHN
12-23-2006, 02:30 AM
I had a similar problem were my rodeo was not getting warm at all. It turn out that the thermostat needed to be replaced. Now I have no problem and the car warms up with in 10min.
PS. If the engine is not warm enough, it will only blow regualar air.
Good luck and please let us know what was the problem.
PS. If the engine is not warm enough, it will only blow regualar air.
Good luck and please let us know what was the problem.
surferfletch
12-23-2006, 09:23 AM
Yeah. Maybe the tstat is just stuck open.... I think you'd overheat if there was a clog or air in the system.
Ramblin Fever
12-23-2006, 09:37 AM
What I would do - get your system flushed along with a new thermostat; then go from there on any repairs that might be needed.
Foaming is not a good thing - BUT, good thing is, is your truck is not overheating, which is good on an all aluminum engine. Could just be a lot of air in the system, a bad radiator & a bad thermostat.
Changing the thermostat on the earlier models is no biggy, just make sure to get an OEM one.
BTW - I wouldn't keep driving it - you're probably not anyway though.
Foaming is not a good thing - BUT, good thing is, is your truck is not overheating, which is good on an all aluminum engine. Could just be a lot of air in the system, a bad radiator & a bad thermostat.
Changing the thermostat on the earlier models is no biggy, just make sure to get an OEM one.
BTW - I wouldn't keep driving it - you're probably not anyway though.
explicit408
12-23-2006, 12:23 PM
What would explain the slushing sound if the t-stat was stuck open?
Besides, yesterday when I took the radiator cap off and started it, there was no flow until about 10-15 minutes of idling.
Besides, yesterday when I took the radiator cap off and started it, there was no flow until about 10-15 minutes of idling.
IJAPA
12-23-2006, 01:19 PM
My New 99 Honda Passport From An Open Auction Came Today Without A Remote ,it Turns But Would Not Run The Security Light On Dash Wiith Key Sign Keeps Flashing Red, Battery Very Dead
I'm Waiting For New Remote What Should I Do Next
Regards
Ijapa
I'm Waiting For New Remote What Should I Do Next
Regards
Ijapa
explicit408
12-23-2006, 03:03 PM
you might want to follow the wire from the 'switch' to the heater box to see if you can tell it's not hooked up correctly. it's also possible the guy replaced just the heater core (not the whole box the way isuzu wants you to now) and he messed up one or more of those trap doors. any other ventilation problems?
no
but here's the site for the expensive one
www.helminc.com (http://www.helminc.com)
good luck
//bc
What wire are you talking about? Do I have to remove the dash to follow it?
Wow that is a pricey manual. Will the Haynes manual be ok?
no
but here's the site for the expensive one
www.helminc.com (http://www.helminc.com)
good luck
//bc
What wire are you talking about? Do I have to remove the dash to follow it?
Wow that is a pricey manual. Will the Haynes manual be ok?
Ramblin Fever
12-23-2006, 03:27 PM
What would explain the slushing sound if the t-stat was stuck open?
Besides, yesterday when I took the radiator cap off and started it, there was no flow until about 10-15 minutes of idling.
Got to tell you, the slushing sound, the foaming, and no heat are signs of what I know you don't want to hear.
This engine is not famous for headgasket issues, but can happen if it were ever allowed to overheat; wondering if truck was tweaked enough to sale it without obvious signs.
Been down that road myself twice in the last 3yrs - not with my Isuzu, but with an old Toyota truck.
Check the oil condition, make sure it doesn't resemble a chocolate shake of sorts.
Besides, yesterday when I took the radiator cap off and started it, there was no flow until about 10-15 minutes of idling.
Got to tell you, the slushing sound, the foaming, and no heat are signs of what I know you don't want to hear.
This engine is not famous for headgasket issues, but can happen if it were ever allowed to overheat; wondering if truck was tweaked enough to sale it without obvious signs.
Been down that road myself twice in the last 3yrs - not with my Isuzu, but with an old Toyota truck.
Check the oil condition, make sure it doesn't resemble a chocolate shake of sorts.
explicit408
12-23-2006, 04:04 PM
Got to tell you, the slushing sound, the foaming, and no heat are signs of what I know you don't want to hear.
This engine is not famous for headgasket issues, but can happen if it were ever allowed to overheat; wondering if truck was tweaked enough to sale it without obvious signs.
Been down that road myself twice in the last 3yrs - not with my Isuzu, but with an old Toyota truck.
Check the oil condition, make sure it doesn't resemble a chocolate shake of sorts.
I doubt it’s a blown head gasket. The sloshing sound is only audible sometimes. Oil via dipstick is nice and clean, no smoke coming from tail pipe, and I’m getting nice smooth power when I’m accelerating. Most importantly, it is not overheating. I took it a few times past 5k with no issues whatsoever.
The foaming only occured after I was reving the engine for a while with the radiator cap off.
This engine is not famous for headgasket issues, but can happen if it were ever allowed to overheat; wondering if truck was tweaked enough to sale it without obvious signs.
Been down that road myself twice in the last 3yrs - not with my Isuzu, but with an old Toyota truck.
Check the oil condition, make sure it doesn't resemble a chocolate shake of sorts.
I doubt it’s a blown head gasket. The sloshing sound is only audible sometimes. Oil via dipstick is nice and clean, no smoke coming from tail pipe, and I’m getting nice smooth power when I’m accelerating. Most importantly, it is not overheating. I took it a few times past 5k with no issues whatsoever.
The foaming only occured after I was reving the engine for a while with the radiator cap off.
trooperbc
12-23-2006, 04:50 PM
What wire are you talking about? Do I have to remove the dash to follow it?
Wow that is a pricey manual. Will the Haynes manual be ok?
i'm talking about the wire cable that goes from the control lever assembly to the heater box. there are three cables, one is controlled by the temp control knob and goes to the temp control link of the heater box.
i haven't done this myself...yet; i'm going from my helms factory manual for 1992 trooper.
i would take off as much as necessary, which looks like the instrument panel cluster (the out trim around the dash instruments,radio,heater control assembly,radio etc), then r emove the 4 screws that hold the control lever assembly into the dash and then go from there. i assume you will be able to follow the wire cables. the temp control cable appears to be the one that goes straight back.
unfortunalely, the heater box itself is a real complicated setup of doors and flaps and if not reassembled correctly or set up correctly might have been installed wrong if the prev owner tried to fix something.
anyway, there's a whole procedure that shows how to adjust the cables, probably not difficult to do, but difficult for me not having done it to explain to you from the pictures -- maybe someone with the pdf version can post a screen shot of those pages for you.
i suppose it is also possible the air selectorcable from that knob isn't set up correctly either -- have you checked all the vents for possible heat?
i doubt the haynes manual will do you much good -- take off the shrink wrap in the store and see.
//bc
Wow that is a pricey manual. Will the Haynes manual be ok?
i'm talking about the wire cable that goes from the control lever assembly to the heater box. there are three cables, one is controlled by the temp control knob and goes to the temp control link of the heater box.
i haven't done this myself...yet; i'm going from my helms factory manual for 1992 trooper.
i would take off as much as necessary, which looks like the instrument panel cluster (the out trim around the dash instruments,radio,heater control assembly,radio etc), then r emove the 4 screws that hold the control lever assembly into the dash and then go from there. i assume you will be able to follow the wire cables. the temp control cable appears to be the one that goes straight back.
unfortunalely, the heater box itself is a real complicated setup of doors and flaps and if not reassembled correctly or set up correctly might have been installed wrong if the prev owner tried to fix something.
anyway, there's a whole procedure that shows how to adjust the cables, probably not difficult to do, but difficult for me not having done it to explain to you from the pictures -- maybe someone with the pdf version can post a screen shot of those pages for you.
i suppose it is also possible the air selectorcable from that knob isn't set up correctly either -- have you checked all the vents for possible heat?
i doubt the haynes manual will do you much good -- take off the shrink wrap in the store and see.
//bc
trooperbc
12-23-2006, 05:04 PM
btw, here's the list of diagnostic causes in the helm factory manual for
No heating or insufficient heating.
blower motor does not run, or runs improperly.
engine coolant temp is low
insufficient engine cooolant
circulation volume of engine coolant is insufficient
heater core clogged or collapsed
the heater core is not provided with air sent from the blower motor
duct connections defective or unsealingseems like we covered most all those, except maybe #7, so you might want to contort yourself under the dash and follow the ducting just to be sure
//bc
good luck. merry christmas.
No heating or insufficient heating.
blower motor does not run, or runs improperly.
engine coolant temp is low
insufficient engine cooolant
circulation volume of engine coolant is insufficient
heater core clogged or collapsed
the heater core is not provided with air sent from the blower motor
duct connections defective or unsealingseems like we covered most all those, except maybe #7, so you might want to contort yourself under the dash and follow the ducting just to be sure
//bc
good luck. merry christmas.
explicit408
12-23-2006, 05:11 PM
btw, here's the list of diagnostic causes in the helm factory manual for
No heating or insufficient heating.
blower motor does not run, or runs improperly.
engine coolant temp is low
insufficient engine cooolant
circulation volume of engine coolant is insufficient
heater core clogged or collapsed
the heater core is not provided with air sent from the blower motor
duct connections defective or unsealingseems like we covered most all those, except maybe #7, so you might want to contort yourself under the dash and follow the ducting just to be sure
//bc
good luck. merry christmas.
Thanks for all your help. Merry christmas to you as well.
No heating or insufficient heating.
blower motor does not run, or runs improperly.
engine coolant temp is low
insufficient engine cooolant
circulation volume of engine coolant is insufficient
heater core clogged or collapsed
the heater core is not provided with air sent from the blower motor
duct connections defective or unsealingseems like we covered most all those, except maybe #7, so you might want to contort yourself under the dash and follow the ducting just to be sure
//bc
good luck. merry christmas.
Thanks for all your help. Merry christmas to you as well.
Ramblin Fever
12-23-2006, 06:45 PM
I doubt it’s a blown head gasket. The sloshing sound is only audible sometimes. Oil via dipstick is nice and clean, no smoke coming from tail pipe, and I’m getting nice smooth power when I’m accelerating. Most importantly, it is not overheating. I took it a few times past 5k with no issues whatsoever.
The foaming only occured after I was reving the engine for a while with the radiator cap off.
FWIW - my toyota had never overheated either, in fact, it's temp was below normal, no smoke and had exceptional power as well.
Just throwing out ideas to check is all, before they become major issues - IF in fact it is an issue. You've obviously ruled out the headgasket as being an issue, so that's good; get this heating issue fixed so you can see out the windshield, and that truck'll run forever.
Good luck to you, drive on my friend, you've got a nice truck and they love to be driven.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you.
The foaming only occured after I was reving the engine for a while with the radiator cap off.
FWIW - my toyota had never overheated either, in fact, it's temp was below normal, no smoke and had exceptional power as well.
Just throwing out ideas to check is all, before they become major issues - IF in fact it is an issue. You've obviously ruled out the headgasket as being an issue, so that's good; get this heating issue fixed so you can see out the windshield, and that truck'll run forever.
Good luck to you, drive on my friend, you've got a nice truck and they love to be driven.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you.
explicit408
12-23-2006, 07:15 PM
FWIW - my toyota had never overheated either, in fact, it's temp was below normal, no smoke and had exceptional power as well.
Just throwing out ideas to check is all, before they become major issues - IF in fact it is an issue. You've obviously ruled out the headgasket as being an issue, so that's good; get this heating issue fixed so you can see out the windshield, and that truck'll run forever.
Good luck to you, drive on my friend, you've got a nice truck and they love to be driven.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you.
Thanks. Sorry if I came off a little defensive. Happy Holidays :cheers:
Just throwing out ideas to check is all, before they become major issues - IF in fact it is an issue. You've obviously ruled out the headgasket as being an issue, so that's good; get this heating issue fixed so you can see out the windshield, and that truck'll run forever.
Good luck to you, drive on my friend, you've got a nice truck and they love to be driven.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you.
Thanks. Sorry if I came off a little defensive. Happy Holidays :cheers:
Ramblin Fever
12-23-2006, 07:31 PM
No you weren't being defensive at all; I tend to come off a little paranoid for other people when they're vehicles are showing the same symptoms my Toyota had just to save them from the same expense that caught us off guard.
Have a good holiday.
Have a good holiday.
explicit408
12-23-2006, 09:06 PM
Does anyone know where I can get the pdf version of the shop manual?
explicit408
12-28-2006, 11:42 AM
UPDATE:
After further inspection, turns out it was the temp. lever that was not working. The heater core looks pretty new and it gets hot. Looks like the previous owner had the heater core replaced and who ever did it did not install the heater box correctly like Trooperbc had mentioned. When I slide the lever to full hot it doesn't push the door all the way so I have to get my hand under there and pull it manually. They also didn't do a good job of bleeding the system causing the sloshing sound. Just thought I'd let you guys know. Thanks for all your help.
After further inspection, turns out it was the temp. lever that was not working. The heater core looks pretty new and it gets hot. Looks like the previous owner had the heater core replaced and who ever did it did not install the heater box correctly like Trooperbc had mentioned. When I slide the lever to full hot it doesn't push the door all the way so I have to get my hand under there and pull it manually. They also didn't do a good job of bleeding the system causing the sloshing sound. Just thought I'd let you guys know. Thanks for all your help.
surferfletch
12-28-2006, 01:14 PM
Thanks for posting the solution. Nice that you know now that the heater core is good for 100K or so!
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