Subaru Impreza WRC - Argentina 1999 Kankkunen

Hello all,

Here start my new progress thread, which I will really try to complete this time ! (fabia's project and build is still sleeping while Ascona 400 is probably definitly dead as I got the new GASS model Ascona 400 kit...)

I have several Sub' in my to-do pile, even if I'm not a great fan of the car.
I recently started building the 2001 Achim Mörtl's "horse power" car as raced in the 2001 Deutschland rallye, but had some troubles with the paint. I took a second body but finally raised the first with brake fluid.

Then I chose to build an SWRT car at the same time. I thought about some original version. Having a 1998 safari kit, I chose to mix this one with the 1999 to get a 1999 gravel version.
I ordered a S27 Argentina rally TK and decided to celebrate Kankkunen victory in this rally.

Here starts the progress:

I drilled the chassis and glued the nuts under the seats which will attached the model to its box once finished.
Test with bolts concluding !

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_001.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_001b.jpg

I painted the body, which was cleaned of its antennas bases due to the fact I firstly intend to use this body for a private car.
the Subaru logo support in the spoiler was cut off, too...
that all will need to be rebuild on the car.
2 light coats of Citadel primer, one coat of polyurethan primer (whiter effect than Citadel but less fixing power), and 3 light coats of Tamiya TS50 with sanding and polishing at each step.
Seems shiny enough not to be clear coated. (even if my pics don't really value the paint)

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_002b.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_002.jpg

I did the same with the roll cage except I didn't primed it of course.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_005b.jpg

Paint work goes on with details under chassis.
Gearbox first, primed and painted in mat black, next in satin black, and finally brushed with Citadel boltgun metal to give a used effect.
other details which have to be painted on the part are painted in Citadel silver mithril.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_003.jpg

that's all for today.

Thanks for reading, feedbacks welcomed ! :wink:

Phil

Wow, Phil, this is spooky! For the last couple of weeks I've been toying with the idea of building the same model!

I have to say that it definitely needs clearcoating, with metallics and pearls you just have to, and you wouldn't want to sand/polish the last coat of colour before clearcoating.

When you say Argentina '99 TK, do you mean just decals or some other parts as well? Additionaly, does anyone know of any decals ever made that would represent Juha's '99 Finland car (his last WRC victory)?

Wow, that's great looking. Wonderful paint!

Hi guys,

thanks for your comments.

I have to say that it definitely needs clearcoating, with metallics and pearls you just have to,
:confused: Why would it "definitely need" clearcoating ? :screwy:
metallics & pearl ? isn't it what make a metallic paint ?? :grinyes:
on my opinion it's shiny enough, rallye cars aren't mirros ! :nono:

and you wouldn't want to sand/polish the last coat of colour before clearcoating.

Well... Hmm... what's the problem with sanding and clearcoating the last paint coat ? :dunno:
that has to be done anyway, putting and working on clear coat wouldn't be usefull if your last paint coat is not sanded and polished. :grinno:
Moreover I don't understand why you said that because I don't want to clear coat ! :evillol:

I appreciate your advice but it's on the opposite of my way of building ! :wink: :naughty:
I'm not a clear coat fan, even under decals, sorry :evillol:

I will try to take some better pics to show the real tone of the body, day light must be better for it.

When you say Argentina '99 TK, do you mean just decals or some other parts as well? Additionaly, does anyone know of any decals ever made that would represent Juha's '99 Finland car (his last WRC victory)?

It's a decal sheet with roof air intakes; I'm still waiting for the item.



thnaks again
Phil

It's rather simple - if you sand/polish metallics that aren't clearcoated, you're disturbing the metal or pearl flakes. A clearcoat protects the particles and accentuates the metallic effect of the base coat and makes helps achieve the deep shine, but you don't sand the metallic, you sand and polish the clear. This is just the procedure for these paints, there isn't a metallic or pearl car on the road (or rally stage) that isn't clearcoated. Of course if your way works for you, go with that, but the general consensus is that metallics and pearls need clear.

Don't forget to lower the suspension, the Safari car sits higher than the Argentina car.

Nice start Phil.Juha Kankkunen is my favourite rally driver of all time.I'll follow your build closely.Keep the updates coming.

It's rather simple - if you sand/polish metallics that aren't clearcoated, you're disturbing the metal or pearl flakes. A clearcoat protects the particles and accentuates the metallic effect of the base coat and makes helps achieve the deep shine, but you don't sand the metallic, you sand and polish the clear. This is just the procedure for these paints, there isn't a metallic or pearl car on the road (or rally stage) that isn't clearcoated. Of course if your way works for you, go with that, but the general consensus is that metallics and pearls need clear.

:screwy: :eek7:
Very strange what you say here... Your explanation seems sounding right to my ears, and I've seen it myself when sanding (very fine paper) and polishing, but that's precisely because of that fact that I can get the shiny effect on my car, the last step of polishing giving a lighter ton to the color sometimes a little bit too dark with the several coats of paint...
I've never seen metallic effect really been disturbed... :confused:

Same procedure on 2004 Japan rally's car:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/12octobre_001.jpg

Do you find it not shiny or metallic enough ? (even if it may be difficult to judge with a pic)

Ok but if you're right it works like that for me, I am here to learn, too !
I may try to clear coat the body, without convictions but i'll try. :rolleyes:

Thanks for the advice and explanations. :wink:

Don't forget to lower the suspension, the Safari car sits higher than the Argentina car.

Thanks for advice.
i thought to that too, but according to the pics I have and to Subaru's sets up which make suspensions seeming sitting not so higher than other cars (even if it was) and looking at Argentina's car I think I can keep the suspensions like they are...

suspensions fully slackened

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_013.jpg

and even suspensions working under a corner charge

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_018.jpg

I think I can keep the original height of the suspensions... Don't you ?

I really hope I don't go too quickly on this build as I usually take hours looking for the uncoming picture of the car... :confused: :banghead:


Nice start Phil.Juha Kankkunen is my favourite rally driver of all time.I'll follow your build closely.Keep the updates coming.

thanks Steve, I have a special feeling too about KKK and his performances ! :)

Thanks all for your advices and comments (I swear I care about even if I don't let it be seen ! :grinyes: )


Phil

Ok update now. :)

I worked on the front suspensions and breaks.
everything primed in black, break disk painted in Citadel chainmail and brushed with Tamiya gun metal X10 while center of the part is painted in Citadel Mithril silver.
Calipers are painted in Citadel boltgun metal.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_006.jpg

the bad pic increase the black effect of disk holes but they aren't that deep black ! :shakehead

Next, work on chassis goes on:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_007.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_007b.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_007c.jpg

suspensions assembling is coming soon.

thanks for reading
comments & feedbacks welcomed
Phil

I think the Tamiya TS-50 is different to other metallics.Most of the auto metallics are basecoat/matt finish so you must use a clearcoat to provide gloss and protection.The TS-50 is different in that it produces a shine from the can and is not basecoat.I have built a few Subaru's with TS-50 and found it can be polished up very nicely with no clearcoating.You could however clearcoat it if you wanted the ultimate shine.Just my opinion.

The Safari car is a good bit higher than the Argentina car.

Looking at the suspension in a fully uncompressed state or under load while moving doesn't actually tell you anything. You need to look at photos of the car while it is stationary to get an idea of the suspension height.

The Safari car is a good bit higher than the Argentina car.

Looking at the suspension in a fully uncompressed state or under load while moving doesn't actually tell you anything. You need to look at photos of the car while it is stationary to get an idea of the suspension height.

Of course but it gives a first idea of the maximum and minimum heights...
Humm ok ok :chair: :D

"good bit higher" ? :eek:
Hmm I wouldn't have said so but maybe I'm really wrong...
Argentina used to be with Acropolis and Safari the highest car used in the season.
I don't exactly know the settings differences but 3 cm between safari and Argentina on the real car would make me lower the suspension of 1,25 mm ! :screwy:
I didn't really want to start big modifications for such minor difference which didn't really appear clearly when fitting the part for first test.
(just by looking at the car it seemed ok for me...)
On the other hand for a guy having always said his first attention was accuracy... :evillol: :naughty:
I may lower it a bit, I think it's better... :iceslolan
or I would post a pic of the result if assembling the suspensions as they are in the safari kit and get some other opinions. :rolleyes:

Thanks again for reading and advicing :)

Phil
(feeling like if it was my first kit !! :banghead: )

I think the Tamiya TS-50 is different to other metallics.Most of the auto metallics are basecoat/matt finish so you must use a clearcoat to provide gloss and protection.The TS-50 is different in that it produces a shine from the can and is not basecoat.I have built a few Subaru's with TS-50 and found it can be polished up very nicely with no clearcoating.You could however clearcoat it if you wanted the ultimate shine.Just my opinion.

TS-51 also gives a great shine out of the can.

Well,
let's see what the majority think of it as I can't make a choice.
I have lust to listen to either freakray or myself... :rolleyes:

here is the Tamiya safari version, with body height as I am gonna set on my Argentina car.

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Sub-RA-99_025.jpg

What do you think please ?
Shall I have to lower this height or not ?
(I now have my idea but want to be sure...)

Thanks for all opinions

Phil

Phil,

personally I think that the Safari version is too high for the Argentina rally, I know the teams run a much higher setting for the Safari rally and I dont think any of the other rally's come close.

If I were building it I would lower it.

Just my opinion, Im sure it will look great anyway.

... and when you gonna get back onto the Stratos ;-)

Sean
_______________________________

http://www.scalereproductions.co.uk
_______________________________

Phil,

personally I think that the Safari version is too high for the Argentina rally, I know the teams run a much higher setting for the Safari rally and I dont think any of the other rally's come close.

If I were building it I would lower it.

Just my opinion, Im sure it will look great anyway.

... and when you gonna get back onto the Stratos ;-)

Sean

Hi Sean,

Mmm yes you're right, Safari is higher than Argentina...
And according to what I am finding on the web it's around 6 cm higher than other gravel settings...
So for 1/24 model around 2,5 mm, that begins to count !
I will lower the car... or maybe start my stratos ? :lol2:
Hum not the stratos, I might do some so stupid mistakes as I am almost doing on the Sub ! :banghead:

thanks Sean

let's go back to the model.

Update later in the evening if everything goes well.

Phil

Glad Sean was right even if I wasn't.

This thread is hilarious!!!! :D

Glad Sean was right even if I wasn't.

tss tss :shakehead who said you wasn't right ?
I just tought and said I believed I could keep the original suspension setting, I never said you wasn't right ! :rolleyes:

This thread is hilarious!!!! :D

Oh really ? :screwy: :)
good, prefer "hilarious" to "ridiculous" !
nobody is perfect, I'm not, If needing time to confort or even change my opinions makes me lead this thread like a clown and is funny, that's fine ! I prefer that to missing good advices. :wink:

I don't think that changing opinions is so funny but I would admit that the way it appears there could be ridiculous...
I assume ! :grinyes: :cool:
and the sub' goes on ! yeaaaaaahh



Update to come.

Well, after fun and philosophy let's go back to serious and modelling ! :iceslolan

I reduced suspension length, front:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_016c.jpg

... and rear:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_012.jpg

then I put the parts on the chassis:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_018-1.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_019.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_020b.jpg


In the same time I started working on the inside.

first step, rebuilding this ugly and unaccurate part:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_009.jpg

by something more accurate but to be scratch built which start here:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_010.jpg


That's all for tonight

Thanks for looking
comments welcome

Phil

Oh really ? :screwy: :)
good, prefer "hilarious" to "ridiculous" ! Phil, just for the record I did say hilarious and NOT ridiculous. ;)

I think you already know that I admire your skills and techniques greatly. It's just that - taking it all in one go - the thread did make funny reading up to that point. It was in no way a comment on you or your build.

I will be a "good boy" from now on and I'm sorry if I my post was ambiguous.

Your scratch built modification looks to be off to a good start.

PS Your are not only rallymaster but the SmileyMaster, too ;) j/k

2 points I'd like to make (without getting into the constructive critisim debate!) is that;

1. Shiny does not necessarily mean that the paint has a smooth, flat surface. You can get a real shine over orangepeel..I know this firsthand...;-)>

2. You should NEVER sand metallic paints. The metallic particles are held in suspension within the carrier coat. Sanding thins the carrier coat and causes the "uniform" layer of metallic particles to become wavy (since you're removed the uniform carrier coat) and thus change the shade of paint. 1:1 auto painters call this "blushing", a splotchy, uneven metallic paintjob. The answer is to simply clearcoat and level the clear to a flat, smooth surface...luckily Tamiya's TS line and spray nozzle is an effective tool in creating smooth paintjobs that don't require sanding!

hth,
Bill

Phil, just for the record I did say hilarious and NOT ridiculous. ;)

I think you already know that I admire your skills and techniques greatly. It's just that - taking it all in one go - the thread did make funny reading up to that point. It was in no way a comment on you or your build.

I will be a "good boy" from now on and I'm sorry if I my post was ambiguous.

Your scratch built modification looks to be off to a good start.

PS Your are not only rallymaster but the SmileyMaster, too ;) j/k

Hi Klutz,

don't worry I do know you didn't say ridiculous, I said that !
I know that reading that in one go could make people think I'm complitely crazy !
Well smileymaster I don't know, perhaps I think it could better significate the ton of what I say as I often doubt being well understood...
Ant that is funny, too !



2 points I'd like to make (without getting into the constructive critisim debate!) is that;

1. Shiny does not necessarily mean that the paint has a smooth, flat surface. You can get a real shine over orangepeel..I know this firsthand...;-)>

2. You should NEVER sand metallic paints. The metallic particles are held in suspension within the carrier coat. Sanding thins the carrier coat and causes the "uniform" layer of metallic particles to become wavy (since you're removed the uniform carrier coat) and thus change the shade of paint. 1:1 auto painters call this "blushing", a splotchy, uneven metallic paintjob. The answer is to simply clearcoat and level the clear to a flat, smooth surface...luckily Tamiya's TS line and spray nozzle is an effective tool in creating smooth paintjobs that don't require sanding!

hth,
Bill



thank you for this contribution.
that's right, even if shine over orangepeel is not what I'm looking for ! :naughty:


Bye
Phil

Phil, clearcoat hides minor orange peel. A very good way to check if it will in a particular case is to put the painted body under running water and look at the surface: if you see no orange peel under water, you'll be just fine. I'm sure you'll love it once you try it ;)

Cool!!! looking forward at following a build thread from DA Master again!!!

Subscribed!

New update

here is the new height setting of the car:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_011.jpg

The progress how to lower the car:

1°/ I cut the suspension and drilled a hole in each half and put a small glued iron tube in one hole :

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_022.jpg

2°/ I glue the second hole in which come the iron tube attached to the first half of the suspension:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_023.jpg

3°/ putty work where the parts are joined :

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_024.jpg

And finally I sanded the putty and repainted the part.

When I see all this hated work on already painted parts I feel very stupid having thought I could keep the original setting...
But that's done, and it come pretty well at the final.


Next, I added some wires (made in heated and stretched plastic sprue) to the new electronic boxes :

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_025.jpg

Finally I started working on the rims; adding tyre valve, painting bolts...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_021d.jpg

... and the dashboard on which I started adding switches above buttons:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_026.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_026d.jpg

I firstly intend to cover the dashboard with Carbon decal, but it's simply impossible to cover the round edges of the driver part... decal doesn't come soft enough to match a multiple round edges parts.
I gave up carbon idea (even if it's difficult to admit :frown: )

Next update tomorrow if everything goes well

Thanks for reading
feedback welcome :wink:

Phil

The height setting looks ok to me.Good work on the dashboard etc.

I firstly intend to cover the dashboard with Carbon decal, but it's simply impossible to cover the round edges of the driver part... decal doesn't come soft enough to match a multiple round edges parts.
I gave up carbon idea (even if it's difficult to admit :frown: )


It's not impossible, it just takes practice and patience :)

Here's the dash from my 1999 WRC Impreza:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/freakray/dash2-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/freakray/dash1-1.jpg

Also note that by Safari 1999 SWRT were using the column mounted paddle shifter and had just a carbon fiber blank over where the shifter was on the transmission tunnel.

If you like, I can post some interior shots of my 1999 WRC Impreza so you can see how I did things.

hello guys,

thanks for posting here.

It's not impossible, it just takes practice and patience :)
Here's the dash from my 1999 WRC Impreza:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/freakray/dash2-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/freakray/dash1-1.jpg


Practive and patience I usually have both, but with my Carbon decals it's impossible, they are too hard and when softening them they crack too much easyly...
but maybe I didn't take the problem by the right extremity...
(I tried to cover the full driver board in one time, ooppss...)

perhaps will I try again with another carbon but the one I have is the only one that perfectly match the size and texture of carbon used on Sub dashboard.
I would better try to make paper sized patterns before using carbon to get the right sizes. :screwy:

Yours seems fine and correct too, and what a work you did with it, seems perfect :thumbsup:
which brand is it ?



Also note that by Safari 1999 SWRT were using the column mounted paddle shifter and had just a carbon fiber blank over where the shifter was on the transmission tunnel.

If you like, I can post some interior shots of my 1999 WRC Impreza so you can see how I did things.

I don't really understand why you're speaking about safari 99 (I'm building Argentina and kit is 98 safari :) )

I still haven't found any pics of Argentina padlle shifter but they already used it if I am not wrong...
I wil have to scratch it.

If you have some pics to share no problem for me, this thread is a public one ! that would be very kind and helpfull for all :wink: everybody is welcome !

Thanks by advance.

Phil

I meant Argentina, I have photos of the paddle shifter, I will fiind them.

I used SMS C/F decal for that dash, I prefer Studio27 C/F to work with though, I just used SMS on this one because I had used a lot of St27 elsewhere in the car.

Here's 2, I have more folders I need to look through to find more, I do have more though.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/freakray/wkshp2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v644/freakray/353068.jpg

Wow, thank you! great pics !

I think I will retry to cover the dashboard with Carbon this evening. I will sand all the buttons to get a smooth surface to cover and make part by part.

Carbon will change a lot even if I won't open the window (that's why I gave up so quickly - well, after 3 days trying to make it !).

I firstly wanted to build this oob, but finally... :naughty:

thanks again

Phil

:bricks1: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
This time it's sure: I won't try to put this f***g carbon decal one second more !!!
It's impossible to make this hard and fragile decal match with round edges of the dashboard, I'm becoming completely crazy as long as try again and again wasting time and meters square of carbon !! :cya:
I haven't the adpated carbon sheet, mine is too hard and to fragile even with liters of softener, it won't work and that's it !:disappoin
I never intend to make this model becoming a masterpiece.
My patience has limit, I have 900 models to build then I won't take 4 days for a closed car's dashboard, even if it would be the killing detail.
I have dozen of other models in which I would easyly be able to put such details and which are hundred times more interesting than this f***g Subaru !! :devilsign:
from the start this model is making me crazy, now that's enough !
I won't put Carbon in all my car so why should I mostly in this Subaru ?
NO CARBON is the last word ! :nono:

update to come
Phil
(already feeling better :grinyes: )

Try some gunmetal paint: The poor man's CF. On those areas of the dash it won't be the easy to see with the body in place either.

here is the update.

Thanks Steve, I put brilliant black, that gives carbon effect but it's a very poor solution... but a solution that works at least !

So, the dashboard, not so good but but not so bad, too...
BTW I will satisfy myself of it:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_027.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_027a.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_027b.jpg


Enough for today...

thanks for reading

Bye
Phil

Dashboard is looking fine!
The detail on the switches and buttons is great, so great that maybe, just maybe I can pardon the lack of CF :icon16:

Dashboard is looking fine!
The detail on the switches and buttons is great, so great that maybe, just maybe I can pardon the lack of CF :icon16:

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Thank you Rodrigo ! :wink:

Dashboard is looking fine!
The detail on the switches and buttons is great, so great that maybe, just maybe I can pardon the lack of CF :icon16:
I agree, so I guess I can pardon it, too ;)

Short update

The wheels:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_028.jpg

I've noticed another mistake today: I didn't cut off the bottom of the front spoiler...
So I carefully cut it this evening with a scalpel and repaint the bottom of the car (precisely under the bottom where plastic were cut).
Fortunatly no problem happened.

And now... Christmas break !! :)

Merry Christmas everybody

Phil

Wheels are looking mighty fine Phil as is the dashboard.Once fitted into the car the lack of carbon fibre will be unnoticable.Anyway,good job all round.The buttons and switchgear look very impressive.:thumbsup: Keep the updates flowing.

Merry Christmas to you as well !

Merry Christmas to you too!

Hello,

Thanks Steve, thanks Stevenski, Christmas was fine. My brother bought the new Wii games set and we played virtual sports in family :)

A small update as I couldn't resist restarting modelling this evening as soon as the last guests were gone home.

The seats, with Tamiya CF on their back:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_031.jpg

The inside, for the moment OOB, without wiring :

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_030.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_030b.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_030c.jpg

First fitting test with the dashboard:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_029c.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_029.jpg

I painted the black on the body; I did something I usually don't like and never do, I put a light black line in door & hood panel lines...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_032b.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_032e.jpg

I am finally happy with my paint job and the result, the body seems fine and shiny enough, I won't clear coat it to be sure not to risk breaking all the effort on this model.
I will try it on the last former Sub' I have to build, the 1997 Corsica Mc Rae's car.

Thanks for reading
comments welcome

Phil

Hello all,

happy new Year and best wishes for 2007 to everyone.

new update here !

As I decided to add the paddle shifter which was used in Argentina, then I had to think of the inside once more, because I firstly only wanted to add the paddle shifter, but if I do that I would have to modify the iside, too: H-type gearbox lever doesn't have to be kept and hand break lever must be different...!

So I looked for more informations about the car and its history. What I found is that this system appeared in 99, my reference book only talked about the year 99... But if tamiya released a Corsica version with former parts, I think it's right and new gear box system had probably been used after Corsica even if the book talk about "1999"...


So I had to modify once again what just has been done before... :banghead:
(and after that some may ask why I don't like sub's very much !! :evillol: :evillol: )

I dismounted H-type gearbox lever and hand break lever. Of course some paint came with the part due to the glue. It also let the holes appear...
I sanded the tunnel, filled the holes with putty, and sanded again:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_033b.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_033c.jpg

After that I prepared the part for painting...Packed like a fish ready to be to cooked ! :naughty:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_034b.jpg

I sprayed some TS50:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_035b.jpg

The result wasn't that good as expected; paint revealed that the holes were not perfectly filled, putty dilated and hole surface isn't perfectly smooth... :yikes:

so here it goes for another lap ! :swear:

the new paint coat :

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_037b.jpg

this time I had to do with the can end... :disappoin
Tunnel look like a clear summer's starry sky... :sly:
But I think that once dry, sanded and polished it could be nice enough to be acceptable (holes are completely covered now)

In the same time, I started working on the new hand break lever, made in plastic card :

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_036b.jpg

this part only will require a lot of attenton and time... But now I have to go straight to the aim !


Thanks for reading
Feedback welcome

Phil

Looks great so far! I never thought of using tin foil for masking... very innovative!

Keep it up Phil! :)

Looks great so far! I never thought of using tin foil for masking... very innovative!
Wet paper tissues and kitchen cling film are also useful for large areas.

Hello,

very short update today; I go on very slowly, this Sub gives me headaches ! :frown:

I finished the new scratch built handbreak lever, based on 2000 model even if I am still not 100% sure everything is conform...

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_038c.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99_038a.jpg

That's all for today.


thanks for reading
Phil

NOOOOOOooooooooooooooo...!! :banghead: :banghead:

I've just taken a look at a onboard video from 1999 Corsica rally I found back in my videobase on the computer...

Tamiya was wrong !!!:swear:
And my book right !!!
Subaru already used paddle shifter in Corsica. But according to Freakray picture on page 3, the new hand break lever only appeared on 2000 car.

Then I wasted 3 days scratching a wrong part... :cya:
the worst in that is that I wazs pretty sure i was taking a wrong way...
But now I know Tamiya did wrong, there is nothing to suppose any more.

Grrrrrr...

I only have to take the original part back and modify it. Fortunately the central tunnel inside the car really had to be modify like I did, because H-gearbox lever wasn't used any more...

I can't wire the car till I won't have finished all these f... gear system modifications.

But one day I will make it ! :rolleyes:

Upade normaly to come later in the evening...

Phil

Hey! No reason to get mad about that, just look again your references, get sure of what car used that 3 day handbreak lever in real life and build another subbie around it... we will be here watching!!! :wink:

What is a model to a modeler if not memories of things you could done better. :icon16:

Hurry with that update!

When did I say the paddle shift only appeared on 2000 car or for that matter, anything about the handbrake lever?

I pointed out clearly that the paddle shifter was used and that the hand shift was removed.

Read this from post #29 in this thread:


Also note that by Safari 1999 SWRT were using the column mounted paddle shifter and had just a carbon fiber blank over where the shifter was on the transmission tunnel.


If you look at the photos I posted in that same post of a 1999 dash, you can even see the paddle shifter I had added the RH side of the column.

I even posted two photos for you of the 1999 car showing the column mounted paddle shifter.

Don't blame me because you misread my post.

When did I say the paddle shift only appeared on 2000 car or for that matter, anything about the handbrake lever?

I pointed out clearly that the paddle shifter was used and that the hand shift was removed.

Read this from post #29 in this thread:



If you look at the photos I posted in that same post of a 1999 dash, you can even see the paddle shifter I had added the RH side of the column.

I even posted two photos for you of the 1999 car showing the column mounted paddle shifter.

Don't blame me because you misread my post.


:yikes: :screwy:
Is there a problem with my English or are some people here paranoid ??

Where did YOU read I was blaming you ? :disappoin

I said But according to Freakray picture on page 3, the new hand break lever only appeared on 2000 car.
because your pic confirmed what I was thinking about HAND BREAK LEVER and not about your advice about paddle shifter !!
your pic shows clearly that hand break lever used isn't the tamiya one neither the 2000 one...
That's all I wanted to say.

So am I misreading... ?? :frown:

sorry but either I didn't explain it well or you misread yourself !! because I don't talk about the paddle shifter I've always intend to put in this car, but I talk about hand break lever... for which you said nothing in your post I supposed to have misread...!

So please YOU don't blame me for something I didn't say and that you misread yourself !! :evillol:

once more I am not an English first language speaker, I may sometimes say somethnig not clear, if so please ask confirmation before blaming me of blaming you ! :grinno:

Phil

I apologise, I thought you were saying I told you wrong.

I know understand that English is not your first language, I am probably misunderstanding because of the translation process.

I apologise, I thought you were saying I told you wrong.

No, no, contrary; and I really appreciate your help and the fact your trying to keep me on the right way for this build ! :cheers:


I still have to upload my pics, i didn't really make something very interesting tonight so I may update later.

Thanks to all who read, support and help me. :wink:

Phil

I'm the paranoid one around here, Phil ;-) :lol:

Good luck and looking forward to seeing your next update.

I'm the paranoid one around here, Phil ;-) :lol:

Good luck and looking forward to seeing your next update.


Ssssss say they that in a whisper or they'll make you mod also on this board :D :evillol::evillol::evillol::evillol: :smokin:

Hello,

Few update these days but one tonight.

I had to rebuild the dashboard switches (which were to long) to be able to put in place the modified steering column with paddle shifter.
EDIT: after posting I realize that a better pic is required to show the switches... Sorry


http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99__039a.jpg

I also start scratching this paddle shifter.

I cut a plastic card square which I did cut and sand til getting the right size, length and thickness and put a longer steering arm:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99__041.jpg

The new hand break lever, which wil receive wires then I put the two hydraulic valves (??):

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99__042.jpg


Fed up with the inside of the car i go back to the body; I put the light lens:

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99__040b.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99__040a.jpg

http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e14/phil67c/Subaru%20Impreza%20WRC%20Argentine%201999/Sub-RA-99__040.jpg


Thanks for reading.

Phil

Coming on well Phil.The dashboard looks good.

Grrr...

News felt down after almost 3 months in order, Studio 27 tk for Arentina 99 is discontinued... :disappoin:banghead:

I now have to finish the build and probably use CB com decals if I really want to do Argentina car.
I have an excellent Crazy Modeler decal sheet for China but it's for Burns car and more than Argentina I wanted to build a Kankkunen car... I precisely chose Argentina because it was KKK's victory.

Anyway, now no need to wait for decals to justify my break on this build, I have to finish it, one way or another one.

Phil

Hey Phil, very nice work on the interior mods there. I have a copy of S27 Argentina 99 decals, they're yours if you'd like them. A word of warning - they are pre UMI and Cartograf so not up to their usual standards. PM me if you're interested.

I love this build. Keep up the good work.

Kind regards,
Bill

Hello,

thanks guys for your kind words.

Phil, nice attention, thank you. :wink:
I think I will use everything I can from tamiya decals sheet and use doors and rallye plates from my CB-com TK.
thank you for your offer, I appreciate.


Bye
Phil