Seeping resin?

I tried the search and didn't see anything on this.

I cast a tire in white resin using Micro Mark CR600 to make a master for a 280 cycle tire. After couple of weeks it has started to seep resin out or I guess that is what it is. You can clean it off and in a day it's back. Is there anything that can be done to stop it long enough to get a mold made?

That's unusual. It sounds like the outside has cured and the inside hasn't, but I didn't know that was possible. Try drilling a tiny hole into the center and see if anything oozes out.

Can you post pictures?

I had a very similar thing happen, I chocked it up to not mixing the resin up very thoroughly. it could be that, or that you failed to shake the part A and part B well enough before you mixed the two together. or yet still it could be that you mixed uneven amounts of either part, causing it not to fully cure.

I might suggest that you soak it in wesley's bleach white (tire cleaner), or some castrol super clean.

I've used the CR600, and have been quite pleased. I have not run into this problem with it though. my problem was derrived from the alumilite system.

you need to use the three cup method when mixing your resin.

this method should clear up your issue.

Well, after thinking about it and looking at it again I don't know if the resin is the problem or the Green Squadron putty.

I made a mold and cast a couple of tires in case I messed one up. I let them sit for a few days to make sure they were cured. Then cut the tire in half with no problems and it looked to be cured. I CA'd a spacer in the middle to make it wider and taller. Then I rounded the spacer some and started to fill in the edge gap with the putty in thin layers sanding between each layer. After final sanding I set it aside for 3 weeks until I had some time to work on it again. That's when I found the sticky stuff and there was even one spot where the putty had become soft. I used the same batch of resin to cast some other parts a couple of weeks before the tires and they are fine. The Green Squadron putty is all the LHS has.

find a local auto body supply store and get some eurosoft glazing putty, or a high quality equivelant. make sure you follow the directions of mixing the putty, or you might make it "to hot" and it may react strangely to the plastic, and resin. or you could even just use the resin to fill in the gaps by mixing small batches, and spread it on like butter or something. another method of filling tiny gaps is by using the ultra thin C/A glue and accellerator. this method will also give your master some strength by ridding the seam of any gaps at all. if the gaps are larger, use the super glue method with a heavier, less flowing C/A + accellerator.