shifting problems problems after shift kit install

ok i just installed a shift kit from www.wbodystore.com and i took it out for a test drive and at like 5,000 rpm+ itll shift so hard it almost hurts and it actualy skips my cd player. i know its gonna shift hard but if it keeps that up im gonna bust a motor or trans mount

anyways i think i might have done it wrong. the directions they gave me off www.wbody.com were really brief and not clear but i did the best i could.

when i took the 2 cylinders out of the accumulator the little springs were still attatched so i just set them aside. the but the bigger springs were still inside and the shaft was still inside. so i di what the directions said i slid the little spacer on the toward the top(so i put it on the shaft first) and then i slid the big one on

im guessing where i went wrong was i dont think the 2 spacers were suppose to touch.

any ideas whats causing this to go wrong

i had my car tuned yesturday and raised the trans pressure line to i believ 96lbs( but dont hold me to it)

one of the guys at a Supra only speed shop told me to take out the small spacer....will the affect it??

what the hell is happening

PM Troy1. He may have a good explanation since he works on transmissions for a living.

The old saying: If it ain't broke then don't fix it. Also, Murphy's law: What can go wrong will go wrong.

PM Troy1. He may have a good explanation since he works on transmissions for a living.

The old saying: If it ain't broke then don't fix it. Also, Murphy's law: What can go wrong will go wrong.


well then wheres the new saying everyone stop modifying and your car wont break

PM Troy1. He may have a good explanation since he works on transmissions for a living.

The old saying: If it ain't broke then don't fix it. Also, Murphy's law: What can go wrong will go wrong.


bob....when i first remove the accumulator...should i see any springs or should it be just a flat surface with the lil rod sticking out. im soo confused and im soo aggervated right now. i cant find any pictures and i cant find any help and no ones replying to anything

When you remove the 1-2, 3-2 Accumulator it should be a flat surface with the rod aka piston pin sticking out. When you remove the accumulator top (housing) to dismantle you will see in this order the piston cushion spring, accumulator piston, piston seal ring, accumulator piston spring and accumulator cover spacer plate . Attached to the accumulator piston will be the rod (piston pin).

When you remove the 1-2, 3-2 Accumulator it should be a flat surface with the rod aka piston pin sticking out. When you remove the accumulator top (housing) to dismantle you will see in this order the piston cushion spring, accumulator piston, piston seal ring, accumulator piston spring and accumulator cover spacer plate . Attached to the accumulator piston will be the rod (piston pin).


i think i put it together wrong again..but i dont care this time. it runs it shifts its quiet...im happy if it breaks ill run it off a cliff im not draining the trans for the 3rd time today. thanks bob as always youve been a great help

I believe that site says the shims are to adjust the shift firmness.
So I'd say thats what needs done, just my :2cents:

Yes when you remove the cover you will see little springs the larger accumulator springs are in the bore. If you put to may "spacers" in the bore around the pin you will have harsh shifts because you took all the stroke away from the accumulator and you send oil instantly to the clutch pack instead of doing it gradually. Our SK’s add heavier springs and a short spacer to improve shift quality. You did put the springs in the bore then the accumulator piston then cover right?

http://www.thrashercharged.com/l67_htm/shiftkit.shtm

Good pics on the right

Yes when you remove the cover you will see little springs the larger accumulator springs are in the bore. If you put to may "spacers" in the bore around the pin you will have harsh shifts because you took all the stroke away from the accumulator and you send oil instantly to the clutch pack instead of doing it gradually. Our SK’s add heavier springs and a short spacer to improve shift quality. You did put the springs in the bore then the accumulator piston then cover right?


the first time i didnt. it was assembled wrong when i took it apart because when i first removed the cover from the accumulator there was no pistons springs showing so the small springs were inside the larger one. me not having the instructions i went by W-body stores online ones and they confused me so i just reassembled it the way i took it apart which was wrong and i think if it would have shifted like that many more times i would have wound up breaking something

those pictures were truely and amazing help that what i needed to see was that the small springs should be showing when first removed NOT the top od the piston. but i searched everywhere and couldnt find instructions.

but now it feels like my shifts have smoothened out. and i dont feel them anymore even with perf. shift on.

OK guys I have a question about those shims.

If the long one is to hard of a shift ,
and the short one is not enough.

Theoreticly ,
couldnt you cut the long shim to be between the two measurments,
giving you an intermediate shift point ?

Or would the springs not work with this?

OK guys I have a question about those shims.

If the long one is to hard of a shift ,
and the short one is not enough.

Theoreticly ,
couldnt you cut the long shim to be between the two measurments,
giving you an intermediate shift point ?

Or would the springs not work with this?


get your computer reprogrammed and set the trans line pressure higher youll feel it more