Tamiya tape peeling paint off

I don't know whats the problem but maybe you guys can help.

My skyline for example, primed, painted, cleared, polished, then i taped the car up for windowframes, did the windowframes, peeled the tape off and it took most of the paint from the roof and some from the doors -- Frustration began.

This was done using duplicolor materials, primer, paint and clear.

Second time, duplicolor primer and paint, taimya acrilyc clear, polished taped up painted the windowframes/rubbers, peeled the tape off and again it took some of the paint:banghead: :banghead:

Same thing happened to my Modenas interior, humbrol enamels, masked my light tan interior job for the silver parts on the doorpanels, painted the silver, most of the tan came off. :disappoin

By the way every time a different(unused) roll of tamiya tape was used.

Ales suggested that the problem might be cutting the tape while its on the part. Did it once, peeled, didn't do it the second time still peeled paint off.

Maybe im using the wrong primer?

I have never had this problem with Taimya tape, but I have heard of other people sticking and then unsticking the tape to a piece of glass a few times to make it less sticky.

What amount of time after painting are you waiting before priming?

Are you taking into account using different paint types can effect outcome?

can't remember the first time I did the skyline, on the second run which was done about a month ago I waited atleast for 3 days.
I have no idea is this really something to do with my paints or not.

3 days is not enough.

Generally I do kill the masking tapes first before I use them. By killing I keep on applying and peeling them on a smooth surface several times to loose some of their adhesive force.

Is the paint peeling down to the surface, or between layers? If it's down to the plastic I'd say you might need to do more surface prep to the plastic (clean/scuff) or try a different primer that "bites" into the plastic better. Along w/all the other hints about drying time and very carefully trimming the masking tape w/a knife. Sometimes the problem is a bit of all of these conditions, so you have to make doubly sure you've covered all the bases when you know you are going to be masking.

I will probably try a different primer, I'm pretty confident that my prep. work is thorough.
And as for the peeling it peels down to the plastic.

I had that problem happen to me about three months ago but it happened with some resin Recaro seats. Pieces of paint along with primer came off when i peeled the tape. By the way I was also using Tamiya tape. I cleaned the seats with some soapy water and let them dry overnight. I also left them sit for a couple of days before painting them. Perhaps I needed to let them sit for a few weeks, like a car's body, before painting them?

Tamiya masking tape does not have enough holding force to remove a layer of paint from a properly prepped and painted piece. You're problem lies in either the prep of the part or the type of products you are using. My best guess would be that you are not using a plastic etching primer (like Tamiya) and the primer is never bonding with the plastic subsurface.

In the resin racing seats the problem was that the underlying resin surface either was not cleaned properly (mold release agent was still present) or the paint was not provided a toothed surface to grip (i.e. the part was not sanded).

hth,
Bill

I thought I did a good job sanding the seats right after I had opened the holes on the headrest and fixed some inperfections on the seats. I washed them afterwards, gave them a half asses drying job, and let them air dry some more overnight. It was my first resin seats I've done

I've found that duplicolor primer works great on plastic and resin. It etches into the plastic enough that even after a soaking in brake fluid, it still looks as though it's embedded in the plastic.

I think the problem lies in the drying time, not the prep. For full scale automotive paints, give at least 3 or 4 days after priming, then at least a week, better 2, after the last clear. I usually space out the color coats by a day, same with the clear. But automotive paints need a long, long time to fully cure. The longer the better.

Something I like to do is get the body paint handled first, then, after I'm satisfied with the clear, I let it sit the rest of the project, whether it be 2 or 3 weeks or several months, until it's needed for the final assembly.

Chris

just use tamiya paint & primer and no more problems... also weather might be one of the cause

I've had no problems with Tamiya's or Mr Gunze's primer.. but I did have the same situation a long time ago when I used a small brand primer...locally made here in Taiwan and cheap (meant both ways) as h***.
I my early days of auto modeling.. I didn't know much about preping and painted (with Tamiya's TS line) the body straight out of the plastic bag... 2 tones, window frames etc etc.. everything that needed masking went fine.. even when I cut into the plastic the masking tape didn't lift the paint.

So, like mentioned before, this is most likely IMHO that the primer isn't toothing into the plastic.

HTH,
Steve

I thought I did a good job sanding the seats right after I had opened the holes on the headrest and fixed some inperfections on the seats. I washed them afterwards, gave them a half asses drying job, and let them air dry some more overnight. It was my first resin seats I've done

When it comes to resin, a bit of soapy water isn't sufficient to prep them, you need to soak the parts in diluted bleach or similar to make sure you remove all the release agent.