Si head swap

Do yall think yall can put a list of all the websites that have the instructions to do the Si head swap?

don't even bother! the only difference between the dx & si is MPFI, tranny, 0.1L, and a slightly different cam grind (not enough to matter). so the big difference in HP is the MPFI...just do that conversion. the si tranny doesn't add hp, but the gearing is a world of difference.

MPFI conversion (http://www.4thgenerationcivic.com/how-to's/mpfi_conversion.htm)

EDIT: i forgot to mention...all you really do is pull one head off and then stick on the other. but in all honesty that would be like pulling your sock off your left foot because it was made for your right foot :confused:

well I'm gonna go to the junkyard and get a new head, So I thought what the heck might as well do the Si head swap, while I send the DX head to get ported and polished and shit like that. So if yall would be kind enough to make a list of the sites that have instructions on how to do this swap I would really appreciate it. As for the tranny I'm planning on getting a ZC tranny, a new flywheel, and clutch

the heads are the same. so you pull one head off and stick on the next. at this time you need to plan on changing your head gasket.

sorry, i don't know of any web sites with the info you're looking for.

I seem to can't find any either:(

i think its some where in there http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/fulllist.html

it's really not hard to pull a head off, i can do it in less than 30 min, the hardest part is getting the nuts off the intake manifold due to lack of space,
first off unhook your negative, then drain all of your coolant.

next up take off that there header or exhaust manifold which ever you have.

pull off the distibuter, so you don't jar it around it mess it up, plus it gets it outta the way

un plug all of the lil sensors, there are two or three on the passenger side

remove all the nuts from the intake manifold, if you can reach it from the bottom there is one bolt really holding it in place(i believe, give me ssome credit this is off the top of my head) if you can't no big woop you can still pull the head off...

next up remove the valve cover and pull all the head bolts out, just start from the outer most and work your way in removing them all,

if you can, loosen the tensioner pulley by removing the driver side wheel and loosenin the smaller pulley the has the T. belt on it, this will make life easier if you can, but i can accomplish the job without actually doing it, by removing the cam gear and slipping the belt off that way

pull the head off, it may take a lil uh negation but it'll come, bring it up and forward if you can't get the intake mani loose

once off just pull every thing off of it if you are sending it off

rotate the block to Top Dead Center, the piston clean to the right side in the up most position(crutial for the timing)

clean all of the gunk off so you have a nice clean surface

put the lil tube things in the block and set the gasket on, you'll know what i'm talking about when you get there, more than likely they'll be stuck in the head when you pull it, their only function is to hold the head gasket in place when install the head

make sure you replace all the gaskets and you put the intake gasket on
before you start to set the head back on, carefully put the head in place, this will be a lot easier if you can get the intake mani off, but is still possible w/o

once you get the head seated start from the center and insert all the bolts, i *think* you technically are supposed to replace the head bolts every time you change it b/c they stretch, but i may be wrong, i honestly never have and i haven't had any problems to date

now this is where i'm lost, b/c i don't have my manual on hand and its 120 miles away i can't give you the torque specs

but i know you gotta step them, first hand tighten all the bolts, starting from the middle and working you way towards the outside, once they are hand tight, toque them to like 18 (not sure of the exact numbers find them out before you proceed!) then you got to like 25 ft/lbs. ect.

after ther head is tightened down put the cam in, set the valve train on top, be careful with it, it can pop apart on you and is a pain in the ass to reassemble, tighten it down in the same manor as the head,

set up the cam so that when you put the cam gear on it is in the "up" position, the lines on the gear will line up with the block, if the tensioner is loosened slip the timing belt over the cam gear and tighten it, if not try to get the belt on the gear and work the gear on, it may be a pain in the ass but can be done heh... if the tensioner is loosened, make sure you tighten it.

put on the dizzy again

tighten up the manifolds, making sure the gaskets are on

hook up all the sensors and the coolant lines, change the oil, and flush the coolant system, this would also be a really good time for new spark plugs

and if every thing is right it should fire right up, assuming the timing isn't off by a tooth or two

and that should be it

http://hybrid2.honda-perf.org/tech/headswap/index.html

theres the actual link off of the hybrid page... hope that clears every thing up