Tune Up

I got a 1998 Blazer 4.3 4wd. I want to do a tune up to try to improve gas mileage.

I want to do cap, rotor, plugs, wires, pcv valve, fuel filter, air filter, and a oil change.

Im gonna go to autozone tomoro, and I was woundering what kind of plugs I should by? I think platinums are in it right now, but im not sure if thats the best for it or not? Let me know what you all think........Also how do you remove the rotor?

paxfam

only use ac delco platinum plugs #41-932 gaped to .060. the cap and rotor are held on by torx screws (T-15 if i recall).

Yes they are T-15 screws. Be sure you do use that type of driver or you will strip the heads of the screws.

Okay, I will get the ac delco platinum plugs #41-932 if thats whats gonna perform best in my truck......Anything else I can do to give it little better gas milage besides the things I said I was gonna put on it!

thanks paxfam

Do not buy a cap and rotor at Autozone - they sell Wells and 2 have crapped on me after 20k miles. Get a Delco at the dealer or online. Depending on gears and driving habits with AC off between 16 city and 21 highway is about it. Clean air filter and MAF help.

paxfam1, read the thread below for other things to do for better economy;
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=453370

Hi, are there any other poeople that have had a bad experience with the wells rotor and cap. Thats all autozone has and thats the only parts store near by. Also---How do you clean the MAF Sensor? Also would cleaning the egr improve fuel econonmy, I am just looking to get this thing fully tuned, seems how I brought it back from the dead from sitting for a year and half. Last question is it normal to have spungy brakes. It sat for a year and now the brakes are very spungy.


Let me know
paxfam

Hi, are there any other poeople that have had a bad experience with the wells rotor and cap. Thats all autozone has and thats the only parts store near by. Also---How do you clean the MAF Sensor? Also would cleaning the egr improve fuel econonmy, I am just looking to get this thing fully tuned, seems how I brought it back from the dead from sitting for a year and half. Last question is it normal to have spungy brakes. It sat for a year and now the brakes are very spungy.


Let me know
paxfam


Dealer OEM type parts only hurt one time. Use only ACDelco parts for it.
That after market stuff will hurt many time. :grinyes: :grinno: :lol:

use brake cleaner or CRC's MAF sensor cleaner and a soft toothbrush to clean the sensor. if the egr is clogged, cleaning it would probably help with fuel economy.

it sounds like the brake fluid needs to be flushed/bled.

if you have a power bleeder, do that, if you dont have one, get one!

I love my motive pressure bleeder, can flush/bleed entire brake fluid in 15 mins, I do it to all of my cars once a year.


also, you can buy all ac delco parts online at great prices (usually much better than dealer, and comparable to crap at autozone) from www.rockauto.com

Okay, got the brakes working by bleading them, and I ordered acdelco cap, rotor, fuel filter, pcv valve, air filter, and 6 plugs. Only last thing I could think of doing was checkin the trannsmission fluid. Sure enough fluids barely registering on the dip stick with the tranny warm. I was woundering how much it will take to get it back up to normal. Right now its only about 1/8" on the dipstick.

thanks paxfam

with the engine warm, grab some tranny fluid, add a small amount, then go through all the gears and recheck the dip stick. repeat until the fluid level is in the upper portion of the safe zone on the dip stick.

Yea, I no how to do that. I was just woundering if its gonna take a quart of atf or 3 quarts. I just wanted to no how much to buy.

it should not take much, but get a quart or 2 just to be safe. i had to add about a quart on my old 95 when the fluid barely showed up on the dipstick.

wow, I dumped 1 1/4 quarts into that baby..............It seems like its shifting smoother......

One other thing im noticing is when I start it up it runs really rough for a few seconds then it idles perfect. On most vechiles I have noticed you start it and the rpms go up to like 2000 and then come back down. This is starting and rpms are at like 250 and then it goes up and smoothes out......What could this be?

wow, I dumped 1 1/4 quarts into that baby..............It seems like its shifting smoother......

One other thing im noticing is when I start it up it runs really rough for a few seconds then it idles perfect. On most vechiles I have noticed you start it and the rpms go up to like 2000 and then come back down. This is starting and rpms are at like 250 and then it goes up and smoothes out......What could this be?

Time to look at the dip stick.:grinyes:

Anyone got any ideas on the rough starts?????????



Thanks in advance!
paxfam

Anyone got any ideas on the rough starts?????????



Thanks in advance!
paxfam


Mileage?
What all has been done on base tune up?
Came retard reading is how much - or + ?
Any check engine lights? Or codes setting?
Any K & N filters or after market stuff?

Fuel pressure readings are?

Check cold start fuel pressure.
Check engine running fuel pressure.
Check engine running on the road fuel pressure.
Then shut it off and watch for fast leak down.
Pinch off at rubber part or block off return line and check full pressure.
Later V6 and V8 gm engines should have 60-66 fuel pressure.
Cold start should be 64-65 lbs of pressure.
If you do not have full fuel pressure on a cold start the injectors will not squirt fuel.
Do not leave home without it.
Engine running should be 60-66 lbs pressure depending on engine load.
Full pressure with return pinched off should be 75-85 or more.
And if it has a fast leak down after shut off you have a leak.
Post back fuel pressure readings.

okay, was gonna do the fuel testing but decided to do the seafoam threw the pcv valve..........Best this that ever happened to the blazer, runs to smooth now and starts normal....I plan on running some more seafoam threw it during the next few weaks!!

Don't use Fram oil filters.