Rookie Needs Advice!

So my kids decided they wanted to build car models :eek:

Thankfully, I found this forum where I hope I can turn to for help on occasion. Here's 2 questions I'm not sure of:

1) How do you use white glue to glue windows and keep the window set tight while the glue dries and keep the glue from running down the window? Or should I use some other type of glue?

2) How do you detail a dashboard (the gauges, etc.) when no decals are available (example - '68 Roadrunner by AMT) without ending up with a sloppy mess (which is what I ended up with)?

I haven't done it since I was a kid (more than 25 years ago) and I did wrong back then. I've spent more time researching than building hoping to produce something decent eventually and teach the kids how to do it right.

Right now, we're using spray enamel from a can for the bodies and acrylic with brushes for everything else (if the kids stay interested and my skills improve we'll invest in an airbrush). Since I'm an old guy, I'm doing the cars I thought were cool when I was a kid (i.e. late-60's early 70's muscle cars), the kids, of course, have more modern tastes.

Any help would be much appreciated!

:)

I use white glue exclusively on all my clear parts. I apply the glue to the part and wait til it gets sticky before I put it into place, the good thing is, you can wash it off if you mess up. To detail gauges I use a toothpick to paint the raised details.:)

1) How do you use white glue to glue windows and keep the window set tight while the glue dries and keep the glue from running down the window? Or should I use some other type of glue?

You can lightly tape the windows in place while the glue dries. That way you can set the body down w/the windows in place, using gravity as your friend. Only use a thin bead of glue, applied w/a toothpick around the edge. If you have a hobby shop nearby that sells Formula 560 canopy glue, get some. It's like a thick white glue, much stickier, and works much better holding the glass in place. White glue isn't strong, if the kids handle the models much it will pop out. 5 minute epoxy is much stronger, a bit messier but if it gets on anything while wet you can wipe it off. It's also not as runny as white glue.

2) How do you detail a dashboard (the gauges, etc.) when no decals are available (example - '68 Roadrunner by AMT) without ending up with a sloppy mess (which is what I ended up with)?

One way to do this is to carefully paint the background area black, and detail the numbers with a colored Prismacolor pencil, either white or silver will work. Sharpen the pencil, and lightly go over the raised details, and the gauges start to appear. You can use tiny brushes as well to paint the needles, or a red pencil may work too. This technique also works well picking out other dashboard details. The pencils are widely available at arts/crafts stores. I've even made upholstery patterns w/colored pencils, applied right over the upholstery color. Takes practice, but works great.

I like the pencil idea.:p

I like the pencil idea.

I got the idea from a Terry Jesse article, and it's a good one! Details nuts, bolts, rivets on chassis and underhood pretty nicely too.

Thanks a lot for the great advice!:)

I for one am glad they give decals for gauges, I had to paint them on an old Tamiya kit and I forgot what a pain it is. I also use a sharpened tooth pick and water based paint because yu can wipe it off with a damp Q-tip. I also use that Formula 560 canopy glue it is good stuff. On the window units if it is a big one piece unit just let the body sit upside down till it dries. Epoxy is stronger but every time I use it I get on something I don't want it on. Also the white glues like Micro Krystal Klear and Form. 560 dry clear and can be applied over gauges to make lenses.

Thanks for some great tips in here...i like the idea with the pencil's

Yah, pencil idea sounds pretty awesome!