damn thing....

I got a 1989 Camaro RS and every now and then, at a red light, and i will see the battery meter fluctuate down past 13v and it will do that 1-2 more times then die out.

i tried replacing the battery, but i was thinking it was the alternator?
if that is it, i was wondering how many amp alternator i should get, any suggestions?

Thanks,
Nick

Are you powering a monster amp, or a thousand tv screens? Or both?

If the demands aren't to high on the alternator, I would just get the OEM replacement.

do you know of any websites that have them?

do you know of any websites that have them?

:disappoin

Sure, Napa, Autozone, Advanced, Checkers, Murray's.......etc

They have stores and will bench your old alternator to make sure it is the problem too. :thumbsup:

However, as stepho eludes to, if you have a high demand sound system in it, than you need to let them know this.

the thing is, i got my battery and alternator checked before i had my battery replaced, and while holding it at 2,000RPM, it almost died out, yet the alternator tester said it was fine.
also, turning on the heater affects the battery meter fluctuating

also, do you know if autozone or pepboys would carry new weather stripping for the car+T tops?

=Nick

If it truely tested fine on a bench test I'ld be looking over any tension or wiring issues very carefully.

The question still remains, is there anything in the car of high load that the stock charging system was not designed to to power?

yeah, it "passed" while almost making the car die out, the lights were dimming then brightening, then the engine sounded as it was about to die, but it didnt...

and i got a 800watt amp and a 10'' sub, but i was having this problem before i put the aftermarket sound system parts in there, it also happens less often because i replaced the battery, but it still does it everynow and then, and the wiring looks fine to me, so i figured it must be the alternator

also, my heater doesn't work, and my climate control system doesnt blow much air, what parts should i get to fix that? because this morning in my car, i could see my breathe, when i got out i couldnt....it was colder in my car than outside.

thanks,
Nick

how are your belts? if the alt. is fine, the batts fine, and (hopefully) the wiring is fine... only thing left = belts? + odds and ends on the charging system..

also, since your car is being crappy while the engines already on, it sounds more like an alternator not getting enough current to plugs issue... (i.e. you can run the car w.o a battery as long as the alternator is good ;D)

yeah, I took it to pepboys and I need a new belt, I'm leaking coolant, leaking steering fluid, and my idle is to low.

right now my idle is set for 450RPM in gear, but when I put it into neutral so it doesnt die out at a light, it goes to about 1,000RPM, so, I think I just need to adjust it.

I was also looking at high performance chips, how would I go about installing something like http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=JET%2D18903S&N=700+0&autoview=sku (http://http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=JET%2D18903S&N=700+0&autoview=sku) ? would I need a tuning system, or do you know if I just plug them in and ready to go?

same goes with this one http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=VNM%2DV45%2D129&N=700+0&autoview=sku (http://http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=VNM%2DV45%2D129&N=700+0&autoview=sku)

okay, so, I put in a new IAC in the throttle body because i heard from a few people, that might be the reason why it was dying, but it fluctuated then died the same day i replaced it. but i usually notice (now), it'll fluctuate and die when the heat goes up when im at a red light, i mean, is it normal for the car to be running like 240 degrees at a red light? while driving, it'll be around 200degrees or so.

=dubya

Thats a little hot. I would change the termostat and go to autozone and have them test you ALT.

well, i keep thinking it might be a problem with the old ass throttle body i got on there, but my friend said i should flush my radiator and see how it runs after that

yea hes got a good idea also. Try tha and the termostat and see what happens.

what degree thermostat should i be looking for? 160-180?

180 :2cents:

(just to make sure) where does the thermostat go?

could anything else be the problem?
maybe the throttle body/injectors are old?
maybe the idle is too low? how would i go about adjusting it?i heard a handheld tachometer, but how much do they cost/work?

=Dubya

Your car has multiple problems.

Make sure the belt drive to the alternator is in good condition, clean, dry, and with proper tension. A slipping belt will also affect the water pump drive, as well as a low idle RPM reducing pump output. If the belt is slathered with coolant and steerign fluid (water, glycol, and oil) it doesn't stand a chance of transmitting power to an already overtaxed alternator.

If there have been fluid leaks, make sure the alternator is cleaned out. Oil and glycol residue inside the (vented) alternator can cause the brushes to stick in their holders, creating intermittent contact and therefore intermittent output.

240ºF is not completely out of the realm of "normal for indicated coolant temperature, given that the factory fan settings are over 223ºF for turn-on, and the temperature gauge on your dash is not a calibrated, laboratory quality instrument. Add the possible variations in CTS resistances, circuit resistances, the already low circuit voltage, and variations in the gauges and gauge senders, and it might be just fine. If the cooling fan is running at those indicated temperatures, the ECM is doing its job.

The factory thermostat is set to begin opening at 195ºF. It will not be fully opened until it reaches about 203ºF. Maintaining an indicated 190ºF coolant temperature is completely normal. The ECM is programmed to trim fuel and manage spark at that temperature range, so it isn't a problem.

Do not install a thermostat any lower than 180ºF unless you custom program the PROM. There are several closed-loop parameters set at 176ºF, and a 160ºF thermostat will not satisfy the conditions.

Check the idle RPM with a handheld diagnostic tach. The in-dash "tachometer" is likely way off (high) like 80% of them are.

Check the power wiring between the alternator output stud and the battery. There is a fusible link in that circuit and it will become resistive at higher currents. The fact that other electrical devices are not functioning or affectign charing while they are turned on further indicates that you have a problem with some copper.

Disconnect your new 800W amp until you resolve the charging/idle issues. That will suck over 60A from your system at peak output, and the alternator is AT BEST a 104A unit, and that is peak output at high RPM, not at idle.

Stay away from off-the-shelf, "cookie-cutter" PROMs. Burn your own, or have someone with data-logging equipment burn one for you. Especially stay away from those that say "HyperTech" on them. Ed Wright, Moates, PCMforLess, and other such places will serve you much better.

where would i get a handheld tach? and if the idle is too low, how would i change it?

Many auto parts stores, fleet supply, hardware, and even department stores will have diagnostic tools like timing lights and tachometers. You can find them on-line, in catalogs, even at places like Sears, for less than $30.

http://www.amazon.com/Actron-Manufacturing-CP7676-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B0001EK3LG

If the idle is low, there is a problem with the IAC system, not necessarily the IAC stepper motor itself. The ECM will do whatever it can to maintain the programmed target idle RPM. That RPM changes with coolant and air temperature, how long the engine has been running since start-up, and depending upon whether the fan and/or A/C compressor are on.

Stating that the idle is "low" based upon the in-dash tach is risky. The tach is often incorrect, and the target idle RPM varies. Target idle RPM can be as low as 550 RPM, and coupled with the deadband tolerance of the programming, idle can be as low as 525 RPM and everything would be completely normal.

i've already got the alternator checked, and its fine
i'll get the tach and see, i'll probably flush the radiator and get a 180degree thermostat to start

thanks,
Dubya