Is this a Bearing Hub Problem?
GeraldM
12-09-2006, 10:32 PM
I hope there is someone out there who can give some advise on a problem I'm having with my Montana. I live in Canada and during a recent snow storm I replaced all 4 tires with BF Goodrich Touring all season tires. Once the snow melted, and I was back on pavement, I could hear unfamiliar road noise coming from the front end. The noise pitches higher with faster speeds and then lowers as I slow down. The noise is aways present except when I turn left (and perhaps right too - just haven't notice it the same way) - even a gentle turn will make the noise go away. There is a small but constant vibration on the steering wheel as well but again, on the left hand turn, it smooths right out.
I knew I needed new brakes so I changes the pads this morning and inspected what I could. The drivers side pads were more worn than the passeneger so perhaps I have a sticky caliper. The drivers side pad squealer had recently activated. There was pad left everywhere so no damage.
However, the noise is not present driving on snow so I don't think its a bearing issue. It's also strange that this showed up after changing the tires.
I can't seem to isolate this and I find it hard to believe that a new but defective tire could be the problem but then I don't have enough experience to know. Wheel alignment maybe?
Any suggestions?
Thanks for any help provided.
I knew I needed new brakes so I changes the pads this morning and inspected what I could. The drivers side pads were more worn than the passeneger so perhaps I have a sticky caliper. The drivers side pad squealer had recently activated. There was pad left everywhere so no damage.
However, the noise is not present driving on snow so I don't think its a bearing issue. It's also strange that this showed up after changing the tires.
I can't seem to isolate this and I find it hard to believe that a new but defective tire could be the problem but then I don't have enough experience to know. Wheel alignment maybe?
Any suggestions?
Thanks for any help provided.
scherp
12-09-2006, 10:41 PM
It sounds like the right wheel bearing. If the tires are making the noise the noise should stay the same. I have replaced the right one. The noise went away when I turned to the left quickly. The left one I'm in the process of replacing. The left one never changed noise when turning to the the right or left.
shogunl
12-09-2006, 10:56 PM
Yup !!
I would say it would be wheel bearing.
As for the vibration after you change the bearing check for the tire play after jacking up the wheel. If it moves it would indicate worn tie rod end. I changed both wheel bearings and tie rod and is good now.
I would say it would be wheel bearing.
As for the vibration after you change the bearing check for the tire play after jacking up the wheel. If it moves it would indicate worn tie rod end. I changed both wheel bearings and tie rod and is good now.
GeraldM
12-10-2006, 02:01 AM
Thanks for the replies. I will start shopping around for a hub bearing assembly. There are lot's of Online vendors but they are in the US and I am in Canada. I am surprised that this would be a problem as the van only hs 78,00 KMs on it. You would think a bearing would last longer.
I also think that the snow and new tires were a bit of a red herring. It's just coincidental that they problem showed up afterwards.
From some of the reading I've been doing, it appears that if the noise goes away when I turn to the left, then it should be the front drivers side bearing that needs to be replaced - does that seem right? (the noise is just coming from the front and seems to be on the drivers side but it's hard to tell).
For those of you who've replaced this part, is it connected to the CV joint? Can I do this with just a wheel puller an a 34(?)mm socket?
Thanks again for your help!
-Gerald
I also think that the snow and new tires were a bit of a red herring. It's just coincidental that they problem showed up afterwards.
From some of the reading I've been doing, it appears that if the noise goes away when I turn to the left, then it should be the front drivers side bearing that needs to be replaced - does that seem right? (the noise is just coming from the front and seems to be on the drivers side but it's hard to tell).
For those of you who've replaced this part, is it connected to the CV joint? Can I do this with just a wheel puller an a 34(?)mm socket?
Thanks again for your help!
-Gerald
shogunl
12-10-2006, 04:06 PM
Thanks for the replies. I will start shopping around for a hub bearing assembly. There are lot's of Online vendors but they are in the US and I am in Canada. I am surprised that this would be a problem as the van only hs 78,00 KMs on it. You would think a bearing would last longer.
I also think that the snow and new tires were a bit of a red herring. It's just coincidental that they problem showed up afterwards.
From some of the reading I've been doing, it appears that if the noise goes away when I turn to the left, then it should be the front drivers side bearing that needs to be replaced - does that seem right? (the noise is just coming from the front and seems to be on the drivers side but it's hard to tell).
For those of you who've replaced this part, is it connected to the CV joint? Can I do this with just a wheel puller an a 34(?)mm socket?
Thanks again for your help!
-Gerald
Socket is 33mm not 34mm got mine at Carquest for $18 CDN and correct name is Front wheel hub removal socket.
As for the hub you can buy them at NAPA for about $210 or Part Source/Canadian Tire for $250. I got one at the NAPA the other one from Part source and they matched the price.
These vehicles are known for the weak front ends(Bad intake gasket and other issues) My Camry went over 400,000km on original bearing (Actually car went to heaven so it lasted life time) Now you know why Toyota is kicking GM ass.
Just remove the nut use puller to seperate CV joint from the hub then tap on the bearing with brass hammer and hub should come apart. Just remember to unhook the ABS sensor wire from the hub before you remove the hub.
Good luck
I also think that the snow and new tires were a bit of a red herring. It's just coincidental that they problem showed up afterwards.
From some of the reading I've been doing, it appears that if the noise goes away when I turn to the left, then it should be the front drivers side bearing that needs to be replaced - does that seem right? (the noise is just coming from the front and seems to be on the drivers side but it's hard to tell).
For those of you who've replaced this part, is it connected to the CV joint? Can I do this with just a wheel puller an a 34(?)mm socket?
Thanks again for your help!
-Gerald
Socket is 33mm not 34mm got mine at Carquest for $18 CDN and correct name is Front wheel hub removal socket.
As for the hub you can buy them at NAPA for about $210 or Part Source/Canadian Tire for $250. I got one at the NAPA the other one from Part source and they matched the price.
These vehicles are known for the weak front ends(Bad intake gasket and other issues) My Camry went over 400,000km on original bearing (Actually car went to heaven so it lasted life time) Now you know why Toyota is kicking GM ass.
Just remove the nut use puller to seperate CV joint from the hub then tap on the bearing with brass hammer and hub should come apart. Just remember to unhook the ABS sensor wire from the hub before you remove the hub.
Good luck
01-23-2007, 06:35 AM
I bought one recently from Advanvce Auto Parts for $134
'97ventureowner
01-23-2007, 01:37 PM
These vehicles are known for the weak front ends(Bad intake gasket and other issues) My Camry went over 400,000km on original bearing (Actually car went to heaven so it lasted life time) Now you know why Toyota is kicking GM ass.
I wouldn't go around spouting the virtues of Toyota. They have their problems too. In fact they just had the largest recall in history, and many news articles are saying that in the quest to overtake GM, Toyota's quality is slipping big time. Each vehicle whether foreign or domestic made has their own problems or quirks that they are known for.
I sold auto parts many years ago and saw parts that lasted hundreds of thousands of miles and some of the same type that barely made 20,000 miles. One has to take into account variables in the manufacturing process which can affect a part's longevity. Some of these problems don't become evident for years or many thousands of miles, and eventually lead to a recall. I've even seen whole "lots" of parts straight from the factory be defective and have to be returned. With the advent of technological advances it is easier however to track these parts and identify them.
I wouldn't go around spouting the virtues of Toyota. They have their problems too. In fact they just had the largest recall in history, and many news articles are saying that in the quest to overtake GM, Toyota's quality is slipping big time. Each vehicle whether foreign or domestic made has their own problems or quirks that they are known for.
I sold auto parts many years ago and saw parts that lasted hundreds of thousands of miles and some of the same type that barely made 20,000 miles. One has to take into account variables in the manufacturing process which can affect a part's longevity. Some of these problems don't become evident for years or many thousands of miles, and eventually lead to a recall. I've even seen whole "lots" of parts straight from the factory be defective and have to be returned. With the advent of technological advances it is easier however to track these parts and identify them.
shogunl
01-25-2007, 05:23 PM
I wouldn't go around spouting the virtues of Toyota. They have their problems too. In fact they just had the largest recall in history, and many news articles are saying that in the quest to overtake GM, Toyota's quality is slipping big time. Each vehicle whether foreign or domestic made has their own problems or quirks that they are known for.
I sold auto parts many years ago and saw parts that lasted hundreds of thousands of miles and some of the same type that barely made 20,000 miles. One has to take into account variables in the manufacturing process which can affect a part's longevity. Some of these problems don't become evident for years or many thousands of miles, and eventually lead to a recall. I've even seen whole "lots" of parts straight from the factory be defective and have to be returned. With the advent of technological advances it is easier however to track these parts and identify them.
To each his own !!
I just call 'em as I see 'em !!!
I sold auto parts many years ago and saw parts that lasted hundreds of thousands of miles and some of the same type that barely made 20,000 miles. One has to take into account variables in the manufacturing process which can affect a part's longevity. Some of these problems don't become evident for years or many thousands of miles, and eventually lead to a recall. I've even seen whole "lots" of parts straight from the factory be defective and have to be returned. With the advent of technological advances it is easier however to track these parts and identify them.
To each his own !!
I just call 'em as I see 'em !!!
Nivek1
01-26-2007, 10:07 AM
Make sure you check the warranty on the Hub bearing....I got one from NAPA..life time warranty....but Carquest was only one year...not sure about CTC...and to add my two cents, yes all manuf. have problems...but I also had a Camry ...365000kms.....orig. hub bearings ...steering rack ..ball joints ...only suspension I did was struts....maybe if GM spend a little more $ on little things like bearings things would be better...
'97ventureowner
01-26-2007, 02:27 PM
.and to add my two cents, yes all manuf. have problems...but I also had a Camry ...365000kms.....orig. hub bearings ...steering rack ..ball joints ...only suspension I did was struts....maybe if GM spend a little more $ on little things like bearings things would be better...
Not to start any argument or to defend GM, but it's kind of hard to spend more money on parts when you have to spend that money on things like employee health care (which is huge) retirement contributions,and other employee perks/benefits that the union demands and still try to make a profit on what they sell. Many foreign soil automakers don't have all those added costs to their bottom line, so in the first place they can't compete on a level playing ground when your competitor starts out with more advantages.:2cents:
Not to start any argument or to defend GM, but it's kind of hard to spend more money on parts when you have to spend that money on things like employee health care (which is huge) retirement contributions,and other employee perks/benefits that the union demands and still try to make a profit on what they sell. Many foreign soil automakers don't have all those added costs to their bottom line, so in the first place they can't compete on a level playing ground when your competitor starts out with more advantages.:2cents:
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