Serpentine Belt Problems and Fix
chucknpat
12-06-2006, 09:20 PM
Hello,
I wanted to say that neither of our two T&Cs have had a belt problem. Both are 3.8L engines. The 98 has 114,000 miles and the 2002 has 65,000 miles.
But, a 2000 Voyager with the 3.0L engine experienced two shredded belts. It is our sons van but I am the one who just installed the new Gates kit that includes the new style belt, tensioner, and idler; all having grooves that were not in the original installation.
Not easy to do for those with less than average mechanical abilities. And for those who have it; watch out using those new words that you developed during a trying installation.
I searched several forums for answers and ended up thinking shredding and belt throwing are real close to each other------the shredding is just a belt that has run too long too close to the edge of it's side travel limits.
And some members of some forums stated that there is no way the tensioner can be changed from the top. I find that the top is the easier approach to the retaining nut by using extensions, a u-joint taped with a couple wraps of masking tape so it doesn't droop and slipping it in from the driver side to close to the nut. Then guide it onto the nut by reaching through the mounting plate to feel the nut and 15mm socket.
It took several hours because of some fears but now I think that I could do it in an hour.
Oh, you will need the original nut which has a loading washer built onto it. Semi-lock it to the socket before completely removing it because it can drop to where you don't want it. I know. Going back I used a 16mm with some cardboard in it to jam the nut to the socket and started it with that. Then I swithched to the 15mm for torqueing.
When trying to get the tool into the proper position you move it parallel to the block and just above the spark plugs heat shield and close to the wires as they bend to the boots. Once on you lift the extension to about a 25 degree angle and then snap on the ratchet. I needed the 1/2 inch ratchet reduced to the 3/8 extensions just for the extra torque and if it had taken even ten more foot pounds I would have needed the neighbor.
I tried to get the Goodyear Kit and think it probably okay but the Schucks web site kept rejecting my telephone number as invalid even though I have had it eight years. Needing to get parts moving I shifted to acquire the Gates Kit which is about ten bucks more and got it through Shop.com a link to Midway Auto Supply located in Dallas, Texas----one could probably go direct to them. Another note is that Napa (local store) said they could get it from their Portland, Oregon store for around 150 bucks----I am thinking that is before tax so if you can wait for a land shipment you can save over $50.
Safety was the main reason for going this way--------who wants their grand children in a rig driven by their mom on some crooked road or going around a busy intersection or down the freeway in the passing lane and have loss of power steering?? Good luck, I hope you have less scratches and bruises than me.
I wanted to say that neither of our two T&Cs have had a belt problem. Both are 3.8L engines. The 98 has 114,000 miles and the 2002 has 65,000 miles.
But, a 2000 Voyager with the 3.0L engine experienced two shredded belts. It is our sons van but I am the one who just installed the new Gates kit that includes the new style belt, tensioner, and idler; all having grooves that were not in the original installation.
Not easy to do for those with less than average mechanical abilities. And for those who have it; watch out using those new words that you developed during a trying installation.
I searched several forums for answers and ended up thinking shredding and belt throwing are real close to each other------the shredding is just a belt that has run too long too close to the edge of it's side travel limits.
And some members of some forums stated that there is no way the tensioner can be changed from the top. I find that the top is the easier approach to the retaining nut by using extensions, a u-joint taped with a couple wraps of masking tape so it doesn't droop and slipping it in from the driver side to close to the nut. Then guide it onto the nut by reaching through the mounting plate to feel the nut and 15mm socket.
It took several hours because of some fears but now I think that I could do it in an hour.
Oh, you will need the original nut which has a loading washer built onto it. Semi-lock it to the socket before completely removing it because it can drop to where you don't want it. I know. Going back I used a 16mm with some cardboard in it to jam the nut to the socket and started it with that. Then I swithched to the 15mm for torqueing.
When trying to get the tool into the proper position you move it parallel to the block and just above the spark plugs heat shield and close to the wires as they bend to the boots. Once on you lift the extension to about a 25 degree angle and then snap on the ratchet. I needed the 1/2 inch ratchet reduced to the 3/8 extensions just for the extra torque and if it had taken even ten more foot pounds I would have needed the neighbor.
I tried to get the Goodyear Kit and think it probably okay but the Schucks web site kept rejecting my telephone number as invalid even though I have had it eight years. Needing to get parts moving I shifted to acquire the Gates Kit which is about ten bucks more and got it through Shop.com a link to Midway Auto Supply located in Dallas, Texas----one could probably go direct to them. Another note is that Napa (local store) said they could get it from their Portland, Oregon store for around 150 bucks----I am thinking that is before tax so if you can wait for a land shipment you can save over $50.
Safety was the main reason for going this way--------who wants their grand children in a rig driven by their mom on some crooked road or going around a busy intersection or down the freeway in the passing lane and have loss of power steering?? Good luck, I hope you have less scratches and bruises than me.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2025