92 Bravada won't start

hi, i just recently purchased a 92 bravada off a freind of mine. the car has 180,000 miles on it, bought it for a winter car. the car will no longer start. we checked the fuel preasure and noticed it was only reading 40psi at this point the engine would only crank no fire, which i know was because of the limitied fuel preasure. we replaced the fuel pump and sending unit and not the engine will start but it will not stay running. we put in a new fuel filter, car n rotor, plugs and wires. im thinking it may be the ugnition module possibally, does this sound right to you?

This is a 92 it should not have a cap n rotor that I know of. It should have Coil packs. And the Ignition Mod should be located under them. It could be getting some problems and I would replace the coil packs along with it. They only cost about $23.00 each, so it is worth replacing them, and save the old ones for emergencies. It does sound like the ignition Mod though, so run with it.

The '92's have a cap & rotor.
Your fuel pressure should maintain at least 52psi at idle & increase some if you blip the throttle.
Is the Check Engine light on?
What's the fuel pressure after starting?
Does the engine quit as soon as you release the ignition switch when starting?

I haven't had time to check what the fuel preassure is reading since the last time i tried starting it. i would hope it's making good preassure conssidering it's all new. the engine will start for just a second and then die, bassically kills right after i let off the ignition. when i replaced the cap n rotor i noticed that the module did look very coroded and rusted so im still hoping thats whats wrong. do you think it could be the fuel preassure regulator? if so what would be the symptoms of this? we are going to be replacing the modual today so i will keep you informed on what happens there.

just checked the fuel preassue and it read 57 while cranking and about 54 afterwards. this was on a very low battery, if that would affect it at all. installed the module and still no luck.

the ignition coil was replaced today with still no luck. it seems to be a spark problem but we aren't fully sure on that yet. is there anything else major that i should check, any fuses that have been known to cause problems with starting, the ignition switch, relays, etc... any advise would be very appreciated.

anything?

If your getting good fuel pressure, and its up to spec, test your ignition system. I see you mentioned you replaced the coil, but did you test to see if you have any spark first? You have to check for spark with a tester(safer way), or by grounding one of the wires on the engine. You could also check directly at the coil too. You run a risk of damaging the coil when you do this, but I have done it many of many times, and only once can I say it might have damaged the coil. Eaither way, test for spark first before replacing things. Don't forget you need to have a good, fully charged battery when testing anything, from fuel pressure, to ignition testing. Anything less than a fully charged battery could be making you chase phantom problems that do not actually exsist. Good Luck!

. . . bassically kills right after i let off the ignition. . . .
It could be a bad ignition switch. Does it stay running if you don't let up on the ignition switch? I know - the stater will stay engaged, but I doubt it will hurt it for a few seconds to see if it stays running or not.

well we checked everything out today, it has very good spark, fuel preassure is right where it needs to be at, it will kill even if i keep running the starter. we checked the ohm rating on the injectors today and they read out at 5.7 correct me if im wrong but im pretty sure it's supposed to be 1.3 resistence. that seems to be our main problem. i guess we will try replacing that on friday if i get the chance to pick up the injector. i also forgot to mention that the car has the GM security system installed on it. i was wondering if that could also be preventing the injectors from firing. lol it's a very nice truck but ugh i'm allready starting to loathe it. hopefully when and if i get it running i won't have this many problems with it.

Check the Ignition/Gage fuse, should be a 20 amp fuse.

From fuse panel bottom left:
Go up 3 and across 1 ......IGN/GAU

checked fuses, all where good beyond the horn fuse and i believe thats for the horn and just interior lights, wouldn't think it would be interfearing with the ignition.

Can you hear the fuel pump running after the motor quits running?

ya, you can hear it running for a little while after starting the car. we took off the intake manifold today and it didn't look like any of the lines where leaking so i don't think i should have to buy the nut kit or replace the cpi unit. i did however buy a new fuel preassure regulator which we will be trying tommorow. now i know in my one post i said we checked the injector and had a reisitance of 5 but i was wrong lol we read a resistance of 1.4-1.5 comming from the cpi unit now it's specked at 1.3 so do you think this would be a large enough difference to cause problems?

OK, I just tried something on my '92. I pulled the map sensor from the intake plenum, plugged the hole in the intake then started the motor. It ran for a few seconds then quit. Hmmmm, I restarted the motor and it ran a few more seconds then quit again. You might try going to the boneyard and get a map sensor off another CPI motor and see if that fixes yours on the cheap.
Don't have a check engine light either....

update, well after putting in the new preassure regulator, the engine will start and you can keep it going by pumping the pedal but it runs very poorly, lots of missfires. however though, once we had it in the higher rpm range, the engine ran beautifully. this leads us to suspect that there is a vaccum leak, most likely the egr valve is stuck open. but of course while we where taking out the bolts, both of them decided to break off. now we get to go through the joys of drilling those out. why it ever be easy?

The EGR trouble is Trouble Code 32.
Have you tried jumpering the 2 top righthand holes at the diagnostic port with a piece of wire or a paperclip and counting the Check Engine light flashes?
You should get a single then a double flash, 1-2, or a code 12 and it should flash 3 times indicating "we're in diagnostic mode". Any other codes saved on the computer will show up as similiar flashes. At the end of Diagnostic Mode, the code 12 will be flashed 3 more times.

we had a very nice unit to check all the sensors with, can't remember the name of it some $3,000 scanning unit lol. thier are no codes being thrown, and everything appears to be working properly we were a little concerned about the map sensor though. it was reading 4v but would fluctuate a little when trying to start the car, don't know if thats normal or not and i would think that the car would still run allright without the map sensor i could be wrong though. would the egr throw a code if it was stuck open?

The stuck open pintle in the EGR sets the Code 34. There's supposed to be a screened EGR gasket available to Autozone to keep the little carbon chunks away from the pintle. Sometimes a coating on the pintle stem sticks mine open, I just exercise it in and out with a pencil until it frees up.
The stuck open EGR acts like a big vacuum leak, poor 'ol motor runs pretty crappy until it's fixed.

ya, the motor runs very crappy while running, but we had it running great in the higher rpm range which lead us to believe that it was a vaccum leak, the EGR valve, we aren't getting any codes thrown at least last time i checked. last time i checked was when the car would only run for a second. dk if it would pick up the code that fast. now it will run as long as i keep priming the gas just very very poorly so idk if thats it or not

well we got the EGR off today and theres nothing wrong with it. Like i said earlyer, we have been questioning the map sensor and from the sounds of what you experianced when you pulled yours, it sounds simmilar. not about the only left possibility is the whole spider kit. i'm realy hoping we don't have to replace that cause ive allready spent enough on this truck and another $350 doesn't make me happy.

Check the knock sensor wire, drivers side next to #5 spark plug...seems mine would die quick when the connector broke. I used a piece of vacuum hose that just did fit over the knock sensor connector end and a smaller hose that held the wire end tight while fitting snug inside the bigger line on the sensor...can getta pic if you need it.

not really sure where that is, have to remember this is a new car to me, not so much anymore though lol. i have a general idea but a picture would be greatly appreciated