2003 Voyager Water Pump replacement help

HELP!!! I am trying to replace a water pump on a 2003 Voyager (3.3L engine). I have a water pump and figured out how to remove the side access panel, the serpintine belt and the water pump itself BUT.........I can not get the pump past the inside of the fender wall!!! I unbolted the pulley and the water pump after draining the system (that is another sore point) and I can get the pump out but the clearance is about 1/4 inches too narrow!!! I was able to slow the leak from the pump with Bars Leak but would rather replace the pump instead of 'patch' it. There has to be a way of removing the pump without having to either remove the engine OR the timing chain/belt cover and vibration damper (pulley) that is bolted to the front of the engine. Any hints/suggestions?? I dread to think how much it would cost at the dealer to have the pump replaced - even though I have to take the vehicle to get the high pressure power steering hose replaced (manufacturers recall). :uhoh:

Here's the procedure: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1a/3b/e9/0900823d801a3be9.jsp You'll have to scroll towards the bottom to get to the 3.3ltr. Closest I could get was for a 99 but it should be similar. Not sure why you're having a problem. I changed the pump on a 3.8 ltr about 5 years ago but, don't remember having major problems. There's no way in hell the engine would have to come out. If it comes to it you might be able to pry the engine to the right with a 2x4. The motor mounts,etc should give a little.

Once you get it back together I suggest you install a back flush kit in the cooling system and back flush all that leak stop crap you put in it out. Try to avoid using it in the future. It has the potential to do much more harm than good.

Guaranteed you're not the only one who has or will come across this problem. Please post the fix.

Try to see if you can just drop it out the bottom. Unless they changed the 3.3 and the design of the van tremendously since 1997 I dropped the pump from underneath and it was quite easy to do. You should be able to get yours out that way as well. The fenderwell method works but can cause some issues with clearance as you have found out the hard way.

Try to see if you can just drop it out the bottom. Unless they changed the 3.3 and the design of the van tremendously since 1997 I dropped the pump from underneath and it was quite easy to do. You should be able to get yours out that way as well. The fenderwell method works but can cause some issues with clearance as you have found out the hard way.

RIP and GTP Dad thanks for your assistance but the 3.3L engine has been redesigned since 97/99! The location of the waterpump has changed from the right side as you view it through the fenderwell to the left side!! There isn't enough room to pull the pump out once you unbolt the pulley, slide it back over the shaft of the waterpump then try to pull the waterpump out and down. The shaft of the waterpump hits the engine side of the fender and doesn't allow the impellar to clear the housing the pump bolts to!! The pulley has to be pushed back onto the pump because there is not enough room for the pulley to maneuver around the pump shaft in the space provided!!! :banghead: I looked at the link that RIP provided and see that the design/shape of the 97-99 pumps is about the same if not identical to the 2003. If the pump was mounted there still I wouldn't have posted my quandry. :wink: NEVER AGAIN will I purchase a vehicle with a transverse mounted engine!! My other vehicle is a 1992 Ford Aerostar (Manual shift - had a 1989 also with manual shift) - took me about 20 minutes to figure out how to change the spark plugs the first time I did it. Front and middle through the fenderwell on passenger side (no cover to remove) and the back on both sides through the access cover inside the vehicle!

I understand your frustration. Been there many times. I've been all over the net looking but, can't find the info. It's not much fun changing the rear spark plugs on these vans either. The first time I changed them was an ugly day.

Not much more I can recommend except find a maintenance manual if you don't have one. Libraries usually have them. $20 at any auto parts store. There's a subcription service at Alldata.com for factory maintenance info. Try contacting 1thunder with a private message. You'll find him on this forum. Beyond that, hopefully somebody will chime in with the right info and save the day.

I understand your frustration. Been there many times. I've been all over the net looking but, can't find the info. It's not much fun changing the rear spark plugs on these vans either. The first time I changed them was an ugly day.

Not much more I can recommend except find a maintenance manual if you don't have one. Libraries usually have them. $20 at any auto parts store. There's a subcription service at Alldata.com for factory maintenance info. Try contacting 1thunder with a private message. You'll find him on this forum. Beyond that, hopefully somebody will chime in with the right info and save the day.

I've searched the web with out success as well. As for the maintenance manual - the year model is too new for Chiltons or the like to publish one, the newest that i've found is 2002. Haven't searched Alldata.com yet and I will message 1thunder to see if he has any ideas.

from what I've read about doing this on the newer gen vans is that the motor has to be dropped a couple of inches,you do this by undoing the R/S motor mount.then there will be enough clearance to change it.at what mileage did yours go? I have the 01 with 3.3 and 110k and so far so good. and good advice on the back flush to get the bars leak out,I used it once and sure enough it stopped the leak in the rad, but it also plugged the heater core.

from what I've read about doing this on the newer gen vans is that the motor has to be dropped a couple of inches,you do this by undoing the R/S motor mount.then there will be enough clearance to change it.at what mileage did yours go? I have the 01 with 3.3 and 110k and so far so good. and good advice on the back flush to get the bars leak out,I used it once and sure enough it stopped the leak in the rad, but it also plugged the heater core.

I was afraid of that. <sigh> The vehicle has a little over 84000 miles on it. I had to reseal the connections at the heater core a month ago. They were leaking and I thought maybe the heater core had sprung a leak. I pulled it and tested for leaks and found that it was leaking where the pipes bolt to the heater core itself. I resealed it and no problems. Will figure a way to support the engine long enough to change the water pump. :banghead:

There's your "chime". It appears Chrysler didn't do anybody any favors on the newer vans. Probably have to pull the engine in years to come.

Apples and oranges (again) but I have to disconnect a motor mount and jack up the engine when I change timing belts on my Camrys. Not that big of a deal. I use a floor jack and a block of wood on the oil pan. You might have to raise the front end to have enough room for the jack since you have to lower the engine.

earlyrizr - Do you remember where you read about it?

HELP!!! I am trying to replace a water pump on a 2003 Voyager (3.3L engine). I have a water pump and figured out how to remove the side access panel, the serpintine belt and the water pump itself BUT.........I can not get the pump past the inside of the fender wall!!! I unbolted the pulley and the water pump after draining the system (that is another sore point) and I can get the pump out but the clearance is about 1/4 inches too narrow!!! I was able to slow the leak from the pump with Bars Leak but would rather replace the pump instead of 'patch' it. There has to be a way of removing the pump without having to either remove the engine OR the timing chain/belt cover and vibration damper (pulley) that is bolted to the front of the engine. Any hints/suggestions?? I dread to think how much it would cost at the dealer to have the pump replaced - even though I have to take the vehicle to get the high pressure power steering hose replaced (manufacturers recall). :uhoh:

If all else fails. The good All Data online sub should pick up on it. 24.95$ us plastic and 15 minutes and you are set to go for a year.
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html
Good Luck MT.

There's your "chime". It appears Chrysler didn't do anybody any favors on the newer vans. Probably have to pull the engine in years to come.

Apples and oranges (again) but I have to disconnect a motor mount and jack up the engine when I change timing belts on my Camrys. Not that big of a deal. I use a floor jack and a block of wood on the oil pan. You might have to raise the front end to have enough room for the jack since you have to lower the engine.

earlyrizr - Do you remember where you read about it?

I FINALLY got the water pump replaced!!! And here is how I did it! I jacked up the passenger side and supported the car under the cross beam with a cinder block and two bricks - you can use jack stands or something sturdy that will fit. I had previously removed the tire before jacking the car up. Removing the splash guard, I started to loosen the radiator hose to drain the system when the hose clamp broke!!! These are not the screw type - they are a compression type and you have to squeeze the tabs together in order to move the clamp. The tabs broke on BOTH ends of the clamp!! I was able to remove the hose enough to drain the coolant THEN I worked on getting the broken clamp off. I had several screw type clamps and put one of these on as a replacement. After draining the system I put the hose back on and started working on supporting the front of the oil pan. I used a 2 ton floor jack and a 2 x 4 and just put enough pressure to support the engine. I unscrewed the 3 bolts (15 mm size)in the motor mount on the passenger side of the engine, pulled them completely out THEN screwed all 3 back in 4 turns. I did this in case something happened to the jack or wood, there would still be some support to the engine. Through the wheel well I took a large pair of vise grips and clamped to the back of the tensioner arm - opposite end of the wheel. I pulled up through the engine compartment slowly on the vise grips and let it 'rest' on the lip of the clutch on the a/c compressor pulley - this was to make it easier to remove and replace the surpentine belt. I removed the 3 bolts (13 mm size) that hold the water pump pulley to the shaft. Rotating the pulley and pushing it towards the water pump, I worked it around while removing the 5 bolts (10 mm size) that hold the water pump on the housing. I slowly lowered the floor jack - probably 1 1/2 to 2 inches at the most - and was able to pull the water pump away from the engine then almost straight down. I put 4 small drops of formagasket around the groove inside the water pump to hold the gasket in place while it was bolted to the engine. After tightening the 5 bolts on the water pump - a swivel and LONG extension is VERY handy here - I jacked the engine back in place and tightened the 3 motor support bolts. I rethreaded the belt around the pulleys and pulled the vise grips off the tensioner arm after retensioning the belt. I filled the system up to make sure there were no leaks and put the splash guard back in place. I put the tire back on and tightened the wheel nuts. I jacked the vehicle up enough to remove the cinder block and bricks then lowered it on the ground to finish tightening the wheel nuts. I just hope I don't have to ever replace the power steering pump!!! It sits just above the water pump!!!

Hey, perseverance sure pays off. Great job! Great feeling knowing you've got a couple hundred bucks in your wallet that would have been in a dealers safe if you gave up, isn't it. It's just a shame you had to go through all that just to change a pump though. Thanks for giving us the fix and Merry Christmas.

Hey, perseverance sure pays off. Great job! Great feeling knowing you've got a couple hundred bucks in your wallet that would have been in a dealers safe if you gave up, isn't it. It's just a shame you had to go through all that just to change a pump though. Thanks for giving us the fix and Merry Christmas.

I forgot to mention that I jacked the engine up at the front of the oil pan and not the middle. And after driving the vehicle a while now the noise I was hearing has subsided considerablely BUT I am still going to have to replace the power steering pump. And I still need to schedule it for the replacement of the high pressure hose replacement on the power steering as well (Chrysler recall). But it does feel good knowing I got it replaced. My wife and I prefer working on our own vehicles. I even do the electronic stuff on them as well - my job title at work is Broadcast Maintenance Engineer. I do everything from DC to daylight at work!

I forgot to mention that I jacked the engine up at the front of the oil pan and not the middle. And after driving the vehicle a while now the noise I was hearing has subsided considerablely BUT I am still going to have to replace the power steering pump. And I still need to schedule it for the replacement of the high pressure hose replacement on the power steering as well (Chrysler recall). But it does feel good knowing I got it replaced. My wife and I prefer working on our own vehicles. I even do the electronic stuff on them as well - my job title at work is Broadcast Maintenance Engineer. I do everything from DC to daylight at work!


Here is some good repair info.
Well worth the money and keeps you updated on TSB's.
http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html
Good Luck. MT