Please Help!
Bajotaz
12-01-2006, 04:31 PM
I got a short in the left front light. (damaged wires, fixed)
After that the car won't start, The engine turns but won't start.
Everything else works fine.
Please help... :banghead:
1992 Pontiac Tran Sport V6 3.8
After that the car won't start, The engine turns but won't start.
Everything else works fine.
Please help... :banghead:
1992 Pontiac Tran Sport V6 3.8
LMP
12-01-2006, 04:48 PM
Hi and welcome on this forum.
I can't see the direct relation between your present problem and the short in the light. I understand left as the driver side...right? The other side would have put you closer to relays and fuel pump fuse...anyway
I suggest you make some tests : basically, you need spark and fuel.
1- DO you hear the fuel pump at KEY ON? It should buzz for one or two seconds .
2- Can you unplug a spark plug wire and check for spark?
I understant the engine cranks OK on the starter. COme back with these results and we will discuss the following steps. IN the mean time, you can look at all diagrams and other help files available in my signature.
I can't see the direct relation between your present problem and the short in the light. I understand left as the driver side...right? The other side would have put you closer to relays and fuel pump fuse...anyway
I suggest you make some tests : basically, you need spark and fuel.
1- DO you hear the fuel pump at KEY ON? It should buzz for one or two seconds .
2- Can you unplug a spark plug wire and check for spark?
I understant the engine cranks OK on the starter. COme back with these results and we will discuss the following steps. IN the mean time, you can look at all diagrams and other help files available in my signature.
Bajotaz
12-01-2006, 05:05 PM
The fuel pump makes a buzzing sound for a second or two.
Then when i run the engine on the starter,
there are no spark on any sparkplug...
Any ide's ?? :frown:
Then when i run the engine on the starter,
there are no spark on any sparkplug...
Any ide's ?? :frown:
LMP
12-01-2006, 07:29 PM
No spark is generally linked to failed crank position sensor or ignition module. The surprise is it worked before the light problem, and suddenly not after , supposing there were absolutely no time it ran after the repair job. Coincidences happen, but first I'd make sure no plug or other connection were tampered with in the process of solving the light problem...but there are not that many...
Is the Check ENgine Light ON? THis might reveal there was a developping problem before the final outcome...
www.avigex.ca/xport/readingcodes.jpg
this is the ignition diagram:
www.avigex.ca/xport/ignition3800.jpg
Is the Check ENgine Light ON? THis might reveal there was a developping problem before the final outcome...
www.avigex.ca/xport/readingcodes.jpg
this is the ignition diagram:
www.avigex.ca/xport/ignition3800.jpg
Bajotaz
12-02-2006, 05:08 AM
There are no check engine ligt...
The car was dead right after the light problem.
When i turned the key i heard a sparkely sound under the hood, (i had the door open) and i found burned wires by th connector to the headlight.
I replaced the wires on both sides.
The car was dead right after the light problem.
When i turned the key i heard a sparkely sound under the hood, (i had the door open) and i found burned wires by th connector to the headlight.
I replaced the wires on both sides.
LMP
12-02-2006, 09:43 AM
There are no check engine ligt...
The car was dead right after the light problem.
When i turned the key i heard a sparkely sound under the hood, and i found burned wires by the connector to the headlight.
OK...so both problems appeared at same time...the car did not run after the sparkely sound....so even before you replaced the headlight wires, it was already dead.....
I'm just wondering which wires turned HOT at KEY ON? DO you have daylight running lights? A spark in the light circuit means the lights must have be turned ON....either by the DRL circuit or by the light switch....
I,d investigate the region where the spark occured and look for more unconspicuous damage to other wires. I have investigatedthe circuit diagram and there is no direct relation between light circuit and ignition wiring. I think proximity has something to do with the problem........or in fact, which cues lead you to conclude the headlight circuit was the source of the problem....rather than its victim may be...?!?...maybe a picture of the problem area could make somebody thnk of something .....it is bizarre at this point....any possibility of miswiring when you replaced the burn area?
THe ignition circuit has 12v coming from same place as the fuel pump (ignition fuse near the relays near right headlamp cluster)....so with fuel pump running as you said, 12v should also be seen at pin P of the ignition module connector (under the coil packs, near radiator)..and from then on, the ignition components are the actors...
At this point, without any other clues, I have no other definite ideas.
The car was dead right after the light problem.
When i turned the key i heard a sparkely sound under the hood, and i found burned wires by the connector to the headlight.
OK...so both problems appeared at same time...the car did not run after the sparkely sound....so even before you replaced the headlight wires, it was already dead.....
I'm just wondering which wires turned HOT at KEY ON? DO you have daylight running lights? A spark in the light circuit means the lights must have be turned ON....either by the DRL circuit or by the light switch....
I,d investigate the region where the spark occured and look for more unconspicuous damage to other wires. I have investigatedthe circuit diagram and there is no direct relation between light circuit and ignition wiring. I think proximity has something to do with the problem........or in fact, which cues lead you to conclude the headlight circuit was the source of the problem....rather than its victim may be...?!?...maybe a picture of the problem area could make somebody thnk of something .....it is bizarre at this point....any possibility of miswiring when you replaced the burn area?
THe ignition circuit has 12v coming from same place as the fuel pump (ignition fuse near the relays near right headlamp cluster)....so with fuel pump running as you said, 12v should also be seen at pin P of the ignition module connector (under the coil packs, near radiator)..and from then on, the ignition components are the actors...
At this point, without any other clues, I have no other definite ideas.
Bajotaz
12-02-2006, 12:35 PM
Daylight on. (automatic, controlled by ign-sw)
I was using to stong lamps, over heating the connectors.
(Caused the short. Found it out to day)
When i was reading around in the forum i found something...
If the ignition-sw broke the lights and things would work, but the car wouldent start...
And something about crossing a red and pink wire, the car starts.. ?
Do you think that could be it ? Sounds possible ?
(Big thanks for the help)
I was using to stong lamps, over heating the connectors.
(Caused the short. Found it out to day)
When i was reading around in the forum i found something...
If the ignition-sw broke the lights and things would work, but the car wouldent start...
And something about crossing a red and pink wire, the car starts.. ?
Do you think that could be it ? Sounds possible ?
(Big thanks for the help)
LMP
12-02-2006, 02:10 PM
OK...you should check for voltage at the injection fuse (hanging near the relays behind right headlight ) www.avigex.ca/xport/relays.jpg fuse not shown but it hangs around there.
at KEY ON and then WHILE STARTING.
In this diagram: www.avigex.ca/xport/powerdistribution.jpg
you see 4 gangs in the ignition switch: the second from the left sends voltage to ignition at KEY ON and should maintain it while moving to the START position. At same time, leftest gang trigs the starter....
at KEY ON and then WHILE STARTING.
In this diagram: www.avigex.ca/xport/powerdistribution.jpg
you see 4 gangs in the ignition switch: the second from the left sends voltage to ignition at KEY ON and should maintain it while moving to the START position. At same time, leftest gang trigs the starter....
Bajotaz
12-02-2006, 05:18 PM
I've got more problems.
The "service now" indicator wont flash when i turn the ign-sw. (tried the diagnostic thing).
The car drains the battery to... I had 12.8Volts yesterday, 11.2Volts today. (havent done anything)
I checked all connections and wires i could find, i didnt find any thing strange..
The "service now" indicator wont flash when i turn the ign-sw. (tried the diagnostic thing).
The car drains the battery to... I had 12.8Volts yesterday, 11.2Volts today. (havent done anything)
I checked all connections and wires i could find, i didnt find any thing strange..
j007m
12-03-2006, 02:49 PM
I've got more problems.
The "service now" indicator wont flash when i turn the ign-sw. (tried the diagnostic thing).
The car drains the battery to... I had 12.8Volts yesterday, 11.2Volts today. (havent done anything)
I checked all connections and wires i could find, i didnt find any thing strange..
First thing check every fuse/fuse link.
Check for battery drain. Key off/Negative battery cable off/ohms meter set to amps/touch 1 probe to negative battery/other probe to negative cable/if problem exist your meter will show amps being drained.
The "service now" indicator wont flash when i turn the ign-sw. (tried the diagnostic thing).
The car drains the battery to... I had 12.8Volts yesterday, 11.2Volts today. (havent done anything)
I checked all connections and wires i could find, i didnt find any thing strange..
First thing check every fuse/fuse link.
Check for battery drain. Key off/Negative battery cable off/ohms meter set to amps/touch 1 probe to negative battery/other probe to negative cable/if problem exist your meter will show amps being drained.
nicke66
12-14-2006, 05:17 AM
The "service now" indicator wont flash when i turn the ign-sw. (tried the diagnostic thing).
The car drains the battery to... I had 12.8Volts yesterday, 11.2Volts today. (havent done anything)
I checked all connections and wires i could find, i didnt find any thing strange..
I should be possible also to do diagnostics with an interface and laptop. Check with a multimeter (NOT a test lamp), make sure to set it on voltage, if you have about +4-5 volt at pin M (lower row, last to the right), (You have to turn on the ignition.) If there is 4 volt, then it should work to read the codes this way.
I have interface and software, an live south of Sundsvall, if you would like to try to do diagnostics this way ,please let me know.
Batteries do drain in time. There is more or less internal leakage that is draining the battery in time. A good battery can be left fore years (or at least months), a battery that is starting to get bad could be drained in a week. (but be working all right as long as you use the car every day.)
The car drains the battery to... I had 12.8Volts yesterday, 11.2Volts today. (havent done anything)
I checked all connections and wires i could find, i didnt find any thing strange..
I should be possible also to do diagnostics with an interface and laptop. Check with a multimeter (NOT a test lamp), make sure to set it on voltage, if you have about +4-5 volt at pin M (lower row, last to the right), (You have to turn on the ignition.) If there is 4 volt, then it should work to read the codes this way.
I have interface and software, an live south of Sundsvall, if you would like to try to do diagnostics this way ,please let me know.
Batteries do drain in time. There is more or less internal leakage that is draining the battery in time. A good battery can be left fore years (or at least months), a battery that is starting to get bad could be drained in a week. (but be working all right as long as you use the car every day.)
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